• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Marzocchi fork bleed @ dirtbike magazine

Norman Foley;36801 said:
Thanks Creeper!:notworthy: I tried to find this the other day with no luck, after reading reference to it in DB '09 TC450 test.:cheers:
Click to expand...

From what I read, the reviewers were pretty enthusiastic about proper bleeding making quite a bit of difference.

Best of fun with it Norman. :thumbsup:
C
 
I just got off the phone with Ron from Marzochhi, the guy from the article. He said the editor wrote that from looking at the pictures and didn't use his instructions. So he emailed them to me. :applause:

Here they are from the man himself.:thumbsup:

Thanks Ron!

Step 1. While the fork is still in the crown make sure to loosen the plug unit on the top of the leg. It is easier to do this know instead of trying to remove the plug unit when the cartridge is removed from the fork in a couple of minutes. You will need a Race Tech pin spanner to remove the cap from the slider and you will also need a 19mm box end to remove the center plug from the cap. Make sure that the top crown is loose before you attempt to release the cap unit from the stanchion



Step 2. Remove the leg from the crowns. At this point you can drain the fork oil from the leg. Make sure to drain the oil into something you can use to measure the amount of oil you remove from the leg. It is a good idea to use fresh oil when you reassemble the fork. Usually around 280cc’s of oil is what will pour out of each leg. After the fork is drained you can hand tighten the cap into the slider and then process to remove the foot nut from the dropout. You will need a 21mm socket to remove the footnut from the dropout.



Step 3. after the footnut has been removed you can slide the cartridge out of the slider. You can leave the spring inside the slider unit just to keep it out of the way! Now you can remove the 19mm plug from the cartridge and dump the oil from the cartridge. Don’t worry about saving the oil because you will need to use fresh oil just to be safe.





Step 4. Make sure to have the cartridge shaft pulled out to full extension. Fill the cartridge halfway and then pump the shaft slowly until you can tell that there is very little air in the oil. Continue this process until the cartridge is full to the top. With the cartridge at full extension insert the plug into the cartridge. Just tighten the plug, you will need to remove it shortly to refill the cartridge.





Step 5. Fully compress the cartridge and let it sit compressed for about 10 seconds. Pull the cartridge to full extension and take a look at the top of the bladder, notice the dimples on the bladder? That is what we need to get rid of to complete the bleed on the system.



Step 6. You will need a special tool to keep the system sealed during this step. I made my tool out of a piece of 1 ½ inch PVC pipe that is about 4mm thick. Cut it in half and get a hose clamp and you are ready to go. Just make sure that the inside edge is smooth so that is will not cut the bladder shave all the corner’s to a dull point.



Step 7. Repeat step 5 so that you can see the dimples again. At this point you can start to slowly compress the cartridge until you start to see the dimples vanish. Keep compressing the cartridge until the bladder is plump (usually about 4’’ into the stroke) to the touch. Now you will have to use the tool you just made to block the ports on the cartridge. Make sure it is all the way against the top cap and then use the hose clamp to fix the two halves of the PVC pipe onto the bladder. Make sure that the fork is still compressed 4’’ the whole time. The idea here is to preload the bladder with a little more oil to get most of the air out of the system for a more consistent feel.



Step 8. Remove the plug from the 19mm plug from the cartridge. Be careful not to touch the bladder, hold it on the actual aluminum portion of the body not the bladder. Now you can extend the cartridge to full stroke. You will notice after you fully extend the cartridge that the oil level will be a bit lower.



Step 9. Top the cartridge off and then reinstall the 19mm plug into the cartridge. You are going to spill some oil at this point so make sure to hang out over some sort of tray to keep the oil off the floor. Just make the 19mm plug hand tight. Go ahead and remove the hose clamp and the halves of the bladder clamp.



Step 10. Repeat step 5. If you see the dimples after you fully extend the cartridge you will have to repeat the last couple of steps until you do not see the dimples when the cartridge is fully extended. You can always make the bladder a little fatter before you clamp the PVC halves onto the bladder.



Step 11. Go ahead and put the cartridge back into the leg. Add about 280cc’s of oil to the leg and you are ready to go.





If you have any questions please feel free to contact Marzocchi Suspension 661-257-6630 or techron@marzocchiusa.com
Click to expand...

Later,
 
jmetteer;41791 said:
I just got off the phone with Ron from Marzochhi, the guy from the article. He said the editor wrote that from looking at the pictures and didn't use his instructions.
Click to expand...

No... a magazine editor that prints what ever BS will fill the page? Say it ain't so Santy Claus. :rolleyes:
 
yes its not exactly to spec in the dirt bike explanation, lost a little in translation from the mouth of Zoke tech to writer. sent in a copy of the factory manual to coffee. R
 
robertaccio;41919 said:
yes its not exactly to spec in the dirt bike explanation, lost a little in translation from the mouth of Zoke tech to writer. sent in a copy of the factory manual to coffee. R
Click to expand...

And I forgot about it until now :o

pdf attached...
 

Attachments

I guess these details are not accurate for my 08 TE because unless I miss my guess they changed the forks for 09?
 
This is only for the 08-09 TC-TXC, 09 WR125 with the closed chamber 50mm Marzocchi forks.

The TE's came with the open chamber 50mm Marzocchi forks in 08-09 and switched to the KYB's for 2010.

Later,
 
Open chamber for the 09 WR300.

The closed chambers have the red center on the top cap...
554950643_9s66K-L.jpg


The open chambers have the solid silver top cap...
DSCI0265.jpg


Later,
 
Is an impact wrench required to get the footnut? And does anyone know the range of oil that can be used in the outer chamber. The article says 280cc's but I am thinking I could use less or more depending on the bottoming resistance.

Thanks
 
Just a question i have a 2010 te310 and it has the closed chamber shocks , all the pics of this bike on the husqvqrna website and in magazine test bikes have the open chamber shock why is this so?
 
NWRider;112159 said:
Is an impact wrench required to get the footnut? And does anyone know the range of oil that can be used in the outer chamber. The article says 280cc's but I am thinking I could use less or more depending on the bottoming resistance.

Thanks
Click to expand...

I didn't use a impact wrench ... just took them off and laid them out and used the axle to keep the fork from spinning and used a racket on the nut... I did loosen the top caps on the forks while on the bike ... Just loosen the top single bolt in the triple to ensure it is not holding the cap...

As far as the fluid level goes, I was trying to get the harshness out of mine for trail riding ... 280ML felt a little harsh on the trails, so I ran mine down to 240ML in 2 stages of -20ML each ... The second 20ML removal was not necessary as it did not get any more plush after the first 20ML was removed ... I'm also using very thin oil in both tubes ...

The oil was added back gradually to the 275ML level ... This level feels better than the 280ML level but I had to start on the clickers again to remove the slight slight harshness I did not feel at the ~260ML level ... I'm still testing here ;) ... I do several rides on my testing ... My clickers are way way out on the compression side also ... and I'm about 148lb without gear ...

Bottoming resistance is compromised here for sure if you are going to hit jumps on the track so beware as you remove the oil ...



You can also set the pre-load on the springs while in the forks very easily also with clips on the fork legs ...
 
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