• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Making the TE310R a tractor

Dave,
I put 1996 CR125 conventional forks on my wifes CRF230 a few years ago. It was very easy to do and my total cost was less than $150 installed. The forks are magic and far superior to my 450R in the bush. Front wheel, axle and brakes fit. All you need are some ebay forks with triple clamps. Pm me if you want more specifics. Cam.
 
Makes perfect sense what you guys are saying. She is at home on the 230, rides safe, holds good pace and can get a foot down if needed.
I agree there is a huge jump from a CRF230 to a TE250, but, a little bit of back story might help understand why we’re investigating this…

Her 230 was out of action for a few weeks and she begged me to ride my TXC510. WTF, no way…
I eventually gave in and we went for an easy trail ride. Nothing challenging, just a fun flat sandy single trail. The 510 has a G2 throttle tamer so it’s not abrupt off idle. She loved it and the next day I was literally dragged out of bed to ride again. Long story short, she’s spent approx 10 hours on the 510 and did some rocky hill climbs etc. The CRF230 just doesn’t excite her anymore but it’s obvious the 510 is waaayyy too much bike! (she had a few “moments”)

In a way, the slow revving torquey 510 (with throttle tamer) is easier to ride than the snappy 250/310.
There are probably bikes better suited for an upgrade (wr250f, crf250x) but she wants a bike that she can grow into and specifically... a Husky… :applause:
 
I would get her a TE/txc 450 09 or 10, lower suspension. Adjust efi to suit, maybe add a bit of flywheel wieght, and have money left to go to Moab! X-lites are zappy and want your full attention while riding, I love mine!
 
Older guy bought my 2008 TE 250 with Athena kit, so 300. 13/50 gearing. He lives around Kern River area and rides some tight stuff. He stops into George's shop and they're talking and he says it's a bit hard to ride in tight stuff so George says, "ever ridden a Rekluse". Anyway my 2012 just had the Rekluse put on and he rode it around and said..."can you put that on on my 2008?" Of course we can.:D
 
X-lites are zappy and want your full attention while riding

She better pay attention then!.... we picked up a 2013 TE250R lowered 50mm. First ride tomorrow!


...Rekluse...

I've told her about the Rekluse being a good option. She said "whaat... don't you think I can use a clutch??. I don't need no girly clutch" hahaha yeah whatever girlfriend.

I'd like to try a rekluse... they look impressive on some of the youtube vids.
 
Thats great!! How does it ride compared to before? Are you happy with the outcome? What is the seat height now?
Thats about what I was told, but much cheaper if I buy the bike from the same shop.

I've heard the handle like they're on rails when lowered... how is it???

I love it. It rides great. Now that it's sprung right, it's not so springy and cush, but it feels solid and planted. I was instantly riding more confidently and faster. Now if only it could make those loose surface steep downhill less scary...
 
She better pay attention then!.... we picked up a 2013 TE250R lowered 50mm. First ride tomorrow!




I've told her about the Rekluse being a good option. She said "whaat... don't you think I can use a clutch??. I don't need no girly clutch" hahaha yeah whatever girlfriend.

I'd like to try a rekluse... they look impressive on some of the youtube vids.

Older (than me) guy bought my 08 TE 250/310. He rides single track in Kern River area, so fairly twisty. He stopped in to George's shop and was lamenting stalling the bike too often so George had him ride my '12 TE 310 around that just had a Rekluse put on it. Now he's getting one put on the 08. Some things sell themselves. My Beta 350 is such a smooth pulling bike I doubt I'll put one on it but still haven't ridden it that much in the wild.
 
Ride one and see what you think. These clutches are on lots of competititon bikes. For one thing you probably won't have as many stalls...or any if you're really lucky. Bike down....still running....

Dirt Rider Mag Review

http://www.rekluse.com/images/exp_dirtriderpg1.jpg

So basically just lets the bike go much lower in rpms before stalling?

I'm sure it's great for some but I'm so accustomed to having one or two fingers on that clutch lever at all times and engaging when I feel like it's needed... that with the price, not worth it for my riding / and what I'm so used to doing anyways.

Now if you get cramps in your fingers/hands easily - then yah , I definitely see the benefits.

But $500-600 is a lot to me , and just so your rpms can go lower before stalling.. seems bleh. I'd rather just spend 30 bux on an extended clutch lever to make it easily accessible.
 
So basically just lets the bike go much lower in rpms before stalling?

I'm sure it's great for some but I'm so accustomed to having one or two fingers on that clutch lever at all times and engaging when I feel like it's needed... that with the price, not worth it for my riding / and what I'm so used to doing anyways.

Now if you get cramps in your fingers/hands easily - then yah , I definitely see the benefits.

But $500-600 is a lot to me , and just so your rpms can go lower before stalling.. seems bleh. I'd rather just spend 30 bux on an extended clutch lever to make it easily accessible.


Well, it basically DOESN'T STALL. Did you read the article?
http://www.rekluse.com/exp_dirtrider.shtml my other link was not quite the best.
It does take some getting used to. I just rode it down the street to lunch not using the clutch and then back home using it. On the trail will be even different but as the article said, this is pretty standard in enduro and hard enduro and even some motocross.
 
Personally I rarely stall my bike so hard for me to justify that purchase especially at that cost... each to their own tho
 
a rekluse isn't only about keeping stalls from happening....

it's like having a little guy on your clutch lever, and his only job, is to operate the clutch PERFECTLY every time. i agree, i like to use the clutch, and often have it pulled in going in to corners so it's not a huge issue.

I have one on my WR450f, and where it is GREAT, is in technical section, or really tight trail, or gnarly rocky climbs. it is like cheating in those situations. Not that you can't do the same thing with a clutch yourself, but most people don't have clutch control that can dream of comparing.......and it sure is nice to stab the rear brake, and automatically disengage, let off, re engage - or use the clutch lever like normal if you so prefer, with the benifit that if you get caught off guard and don't work the clutch PERFECTLY, the little guy standing on your clutch perch will take care of it and off you go.
 
I just had my '11 TE310 lowered 2". It was not a simple, change spacers, job. It required some 'engineering' and I was told it would not be a simple job to switch it back. Also, the rear shock bushing the helps prevent bottoming had to be trimmed to allow for adequate suspension travel. Cost was about $750, including new springs and revalving.

I had SeatConcepts make a lowered seat for me.
 
Hi , Im very interested in your comments on the handling and suspension now you have lowered it 50 mm. I ride a variety of trails from stop start tight twisty rocky forrest, to large sandy whoops. I tried a lowering link and it made my bike handle like a pig and kept bottoming out? I spoke to a guy over here in Australia that reckons if you space them the suspension is severely lacking?? He is a suspension tuner and Australasian Dirt Bike Magazine tester he suggested shaving 1.5mm off the rear shock shaft and lowering the rear sub frame? Spoke to another guy from 'Truper Lu's Garage' ( big Husky Dealer) and he reckons the 50mm spacer is fine and not alot difference in the performance just lower. Im only 5ft 3in so any feed back would be appreciated. I have already shaved down my seat. Cheers Chesh Australia Husky seat before.jpgHusky seat after.jpg
 
a rekluse isn't only about keeping stalls from happening....

it's like having a little guy on your clutch lever, and his only job, is to operate the clutch PERFECTLY every time. i agree, i like to use the clutch, and often have it pulled in going in to corners so it's not a huge issue.

I have one on my WR450f, and where it is GREAT, is in technical section, or really tight trail, or gnarly rocky climbs. it is like cheating in those situations. Not that you can't do the same thing with a clutch yourself, but most people don't have clutch control that can dream of comparing.......and it sure is nice to stab the rear brake, and automatically disengage, let off, re engage - or use the clutch lever like normal if you so prefer, with the benifit that if you get caught off guard and don't work the clutch PERFECTLY, the little guy standing on your clutch perch will take care of it and off you go.

I inherited one on my 010 TC250 .. I just can't get used to using it yet ... Its like you gotta commit to using it as you enter a section AND keep your hand off the clutch ... Controlling the bike with only twisting the throttle seems very foreign and again, you gotta commit to this style ... You can go manual at any time but I'm not sure going back to autoclutch is possible on the fly ...

The bikes behavior is also changed such as no bump-starting ... It seems like a low speed device and works well at what it does and does not do. Its a commitment to ride like that ... Like I'm thinking of getting rid of mine ... Not easy swapping back from the sweet stock HYDRO clutch on my other Huskies ...

--

Do you guys with these just slam the rear brake on with no regard to stalling the bike on trails or any other places when riding ...
 
I inherited one on my 010 TC250 .. I just can't get used to using it yet ... Its like you gotta commit to using it as you enter a section AND keep your hand off the clutch ... Controlling the bike with only twisting the throttle seems very foreign and again, you gotta commit to this style ... You can go manual at any time but I'm not sure going back to autoclutch is possible on the fly ...

The bikes behavior is also changed such as no bump-starting ... It seems like a low speed device and works well at what it does and does not do. Its a commitment to ride like that ... Like I'm thinking of getting rid of mine ... Not easy swapping back from the sweet stock HYDRO clutch on my other Huskies ...

--

Do you guys with these just slam the rear brake on with no regard to stalling the bike on trails or any other places when riding ...
Iam told you can just go slamming on the back brake with no stall depending on how you have it set up. Im told you can adjust the Rekluse to your riding style
 
Hi , Im very interested in your comments on the handling and suspension now you have lowered it 50 mm.
Hi Chesh, I rode our lowered TE250R for a few short rides only but my initial thoughts were to find some corners to throw it into. It feels very eager to turn and should be great in tight twisties. Large sandy whoops or high speed stability... not sure, I haven't had enough seat time to know.

Its essentially the same bike as my TE310R but being lowered I feel it will get around a corner better than the 310...
 
I inherited one on my 010 TC250 .. I just can't get used to using it yet ... Its like you gotta commit to using it as you enter a section AND keep your hand off the clutch ... Controlling the bike with only twisting the throttle seems very foreign and again, you gotta commit to this style ... You can go manual at any time but I'm not sure going back to autoclutch is possible on the fly ...

The bikes behavior is also changed such as no bump-starting ... It seems like a low speed device and works well at what it does and does not do. Its a commitment to ride like that ... Like I'm thinking of getting rid of mine ... Not easy swapping back from the sweet stock HYDRO clutch on my other Huskies ...

--

Do you guys with these just slam the rear brake on with no regard to stalling the bike on trails or any other places when riding ...

Exactly.. I been so accustomed to using the clutch on turns, during slower sections, etc. instead of braking-- that I think it'd really mess up my method of riding though I can't say for sure until I try it. I'm sure anyone could get accustomed to it and adapt... but I don't see it as being too advantageous to an expert rider. Seems more like an amateur/lazy method of riding. Or people who have unfortunately suffered from wrist/hand injuries.

Can you still pop the clutch with a Rekluse? Sometimes you hold clutch around corner then pop it and you take off ripping.. ?
 
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