• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

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    Thanks for your patience and support!

Making the TE310R a tractor

Boogie

Boogie

Husqvarna
Pro Class
My girlfriend wants to upgrade from her boring CFR230 and is looking at TE250R and 310R’s.
There are always hill climbs in our trail rides and she tractors up them fine on the Honda, however, she is not too keen on the snappy power delivery on my 310R when attacking hills. That front wheel lofting power is a little scary for her. I’ve never ridden a 250R but I’d assume they’d also be snappy with just a little less power everywhere.

Anyone had any experience with taming the power of a TE310R to make it more of a tractor?

1. GET ECU with adjustable mapping switch???
2. G2 Throttle – 400 cam??? (I have one I can try on my 310R)

Any advice on the above or other affordable, reversible mods that I can try for her?
 
Thanks for the advice guys, I'll look into the rekluse option.

Is it true to say that downhills take time to get used to with a rekluse?
ie. back brake = clutch disengage, blip throttle = re-engage, too fast, falls off, no dinner for me?
 
dave lindsey said:
My girlfriend has a 230F as well. Really a nice bike...and she loves it. Weve talked about upgrading it but nothing really fits because of her height/lack of it. So I think were just going to do some upgrades...based on what this guy did...
http://rickramsey.net/CRF230F.htm
Click to expand...

Thanks I'll look into that. Certainly would be the most affordable option.

Fyi, I looked into the seat height difference between the CFR230 and TE250/310.
CRF230 = 879mm (34.6')
TE's = 950mm (37.4')
Was told the suspension can be lowered internally 50mm. Then 20mm shaved off the seat makes it the same as the 230. Lowered TE probably better for shorties because of the narrower seat.
 
You can lower the gearing to get the kind of bike you want. Lower gearing = less stalls and better chugging in 1st gear,Right now I have 14/50 and it is great for tight trails.
I believe the 2012 TE 250's were all low height models.
 
Boogie said:
Thanks I'll look into that. Certainly would be the most affordable option.

Fyi, I looked into the seat height difference between the CFR230 and TE250/310.
CRF230 = 879mm (34.6')
TE's = 950mm (37.4')
Was told the suspension can be lowered internally 50mm. Then 20mm shaved off the seat makes it the same as the 230. Lowered TE probably better for shorties because of the narrower seat.
Click to expand...


I just had my '11 TE310 lowered 2". It was not a simple, change spacers, job. It required some 'engineering' and I was told it would not be a simple job to switch it back. Also, the rear shock bushing the helps prevent bottoming had to be trimmed to allow for adequate suspension travel. Cost was about $750, including new springs and revalving.

I had SeatConcepts make a lowered seat for me.
 
mnb said:
I just had my '11 TE310 lowered 2". It was not a simple, change spacers, job. It required some 'engineering' and I was told it would not be a simple job to switch it back. Also, the rear shock bushing the helps prevent bottoming had to be trimmed to allow for adequate suspension travel. Cost was about $750, including new springs and revalving.

I had SeatConcepts make a lowered seat for me.
Click to expand...

Thats great!! How does it ride compared to before? Are you happy with the outcome? What is the seat height now?
 
TE in RC said:
You can lower the gearing to get the kind of bike you want. Lower gearing = less stalls and better chugging in 1st gear,Right now I have 14/50 and it is great for tight trails.
I believe the 2012 TE 250's were all low height models.
Click to expand...

I've got 13/50 on mine now, is fun in the tight stuff.

I don't think the TE250 LOW was released in Aussie at all unfortunately.
 
mnb said:
Cost was about $750, including new springs and revalving.
Click to expand...

Thats about what I was told, but much cheaper if I buy the bike from the same shop.

I've heard the handle like they're on rails when lowered... how is it???
 
I'll Pipe in here..Rekluse Z-start Pro(came with bike) and a 14-50 gearing (changed gearing up from 13T). Had my first rip of legitimate singletrack and super mud boggy sections last weekend. One stall out...resulting from almost running into my buddy who hestitated on a sharp 90 degree/up hill left footplanter ;) Other than feeling like I am cheating with the Rekluse..I do have quite a bit less engine braking but it's been 24 plus years since I rode and am not fast enough in the trails to really need aggressive engine braking...my right foot is doing a pretty good job of it ;).
 
The TE250R is way more bike than the CFR230 no matter what mods you do to it. Heavier. Taller. More wheel spinning nose lifting power. More runaway downhill speed. The CRF230 is a TRACTOR. I had a TTR230 before my TE310. The Husky likes to be ridden aggressively. If she is not this kind of a rider maybe she would be happier on the Honda. A new pipe and jetting will give a little more go and make it sound better.
 
I rode a CFR and it was nice to ride but compared to my Te 250 it seemed like a a beginner bike (but I did enjoy tractoring up steep hills without the bike wanting to wheelie like my TE does). Just as Shilo020 said, the TE likes to be ridden aggressively and looking at the expense of lowering it I'd also say to hop up the bike she's riding now. When she starts thinking it's not enough you can make the switch to something with more grunt.
 
what your saying makes a lot of sense. I know for shure that my girlfriend is not ready for the TE250. She thinks the CRF is perfect for now. I thought maybe better suspension would be a great think but you can get the 85 expert forks and shock and it goes right on the CRF230 according to guy in the above link.
 
My wife stared out on a XR200 then I moved her to a lowered KTM400 and now she rides a KTM250 XC two stroke. My advice is to move her up only when she is confident enough and patient enough to get comfortable with the power and suspension of a bigger bike. You will need to be patient and supportive while she adjusts. I made sure that the rides were well within her comfort and skill zone as she adjusted...and she adjusted fast as she learned to master her new bike.

As mentioned by other members you can change the ECU mapping, add a flywheel weight, auto clutch, lower the suspension (kuba link, shaved seat, professionally lowered shock and fork) or change the gearing. The answer may be a combination of several methods. Worth every penny if it helps her adjust to a better bike.

My two cents
 
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