• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Austria - About 2014 & Newer
     FE = 4st Enduro & FC = 4st Cross

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FE/FC Making an FC250 stall less often?

letitsnow

letitsnow

Husqvarna
AA Class
I've recently paid off my '14 FC250 and am now trying to improve on a few of its weak areas.

I replaced the stock Dunlop mx51 tires with Michelin m/s12xc's, which is a good improvement.

The next issue that I'd like to improve is the idling while in gear with the clutch engaged (lever pulled in). It likes to stall... Sometimes it will stall while entering corners and other times it will stall when I'm trying to tip toe through technical areas - always when I have the clutch lever pulled in and am barely moving. It doesn't flame out much, just dies while idling. I've bled my clutch and determined that my clutch drag is no more than the typical KTM.

My current thinking is:

1. Add a Steahly flywheel weight.

2. Add a JD EFI programmer, thinking that changing the idle mixture might help?

Advise from you folks???
 
A rekluse would eliminate the stalling but the cost is hard to bear. The extra weight of the rekluse components also adds flywheel effect. The 250's just want to be revved hard and don't like to be lugged. I ended up selling my small bore and went back to a 501. If I ever go smaller it will be a 2t from here on out. Good luck with your decision.
 
I went to the Double adjustable folding levers on my FE 501 to stop the clutch drag issue and it only stalled once or twice since then. Piston adjuster knob all the way in and then adjust the set screw on the lever's position in the field. Just To get the piston to disengage a bit further on the master cylinder. I already had the levers on the bike I just had to make a field adjustment. Problem solved.

They do have clutch weight rings that stack onto the clutch cover hat too.

I think the levers I have were a set made by "Airtime". I got them off ebay. About $85.00 maybe. I can't remember off hand. The fit was perfect on both sides.

I ride all tight stuff in the brush and washes. I had a first time out ride stalling issue that arose only after installing the "Slavens Racing" 280lb Belleville washer diaphragm clutch spring. (Stock spring is 250 lbs. rated). It had to be installed to the 3rd position, stock spring was on the 2nd position on the 6 screw retaining ring on the clutch cover. It still drags a bit and is harder to pull with the double adjustable shorty levers, and I use a larger than stock diameter gel type grip too so that somewhat contributed to my personal drag problem with the slightly stiffer spring = more clutch drag. But I'll tell you the clutch hooks up faster, earlier and harder and all around it's better.


As for the flywheel weights. I believe the Stealhy weights have to be epoxied on and are then permanent and not easily removed.

Cost of one of these below pictured "Best Dual Sports bikes" clutch weight's is about $65.00 and this is easily installed or removed as long as you have the original fasteners to put them back onto the clutch spring retainer ring.

This clutch weight itself is made by "Best dual sports bikes" products. I believe they list ones for the 2013 to 2016 KTM 250 engines so it should fit the TC 250. Check it out. Additional cover clearance or a taller cover I don't believe is required.
bestdualsportbikes.com/clutchweights.

14+oz+clutch+weight.jpg


14 oz. clutch weight with bolts.
$64.95
 
reveille said:
A rekluse would eliminate the stalling but the cost is hard to bear. The extra weight of the rekluse components also adds flywheel effect. The 250's just want to be revved hard and don't like to be lugged. I ended up selling my small bore and went back to a 501. If I ever go smaller it will be a 2t from here on out. Good luck with your decision.
Click to expand...


Thanks. I use this bike for a wide variety of riding - from the big dunes at St Anthony ID to the tight singletrack in Akeley MN. I prefer not to have an auto clutch because of this. If my main goal was to do well in enduro and harescrambles, I'd have that new Rekluse in a heartbeat.

My 250 actually lugs fairly well with my 150 lbs on it. I'm only really trying to make it a stronger idler.
 
Big Timmy said:
I went to the Double adjustable folding levers on my FE 501 to stop the clutch drag issue and it only stalled once or twice since then. Piston adjuster knob all the way in and then adjust the set screw on the lever's position in the field. Just To get the piston to disengage a bit further on the master cylinder. I already had the levers on the bike I just had to make a field adjustment. Problem solved.

They do have clutch weight rings that stack onto the clutch cover hat too.

I think the levers I have were a set made by "Airtime". I got them off ebay. About $85.00 maybe. I can't remember off hand. The fit was perfect on both sides.

I ride all tight stuff in the brush and washes. I had a first time out ride stalling issue that arose only after installing the "Slavens Racing" 280lb Belleville washer diaphragm clutch spring. (Stock spring is 250 lbs. rated). It had to be installed to the 3rd position, stock spring was on the 2nd position on the 6 screw retaining ring on the clutch cover. It still drags a bit and is harder to pull with the double adjustable shorty levers, and I use a larger than stock diameter gel type grip too so that somewhat contributed to my personal drag problem with the slightly stiffer spring = more clutch drag. But I'll tell you the clutch hooks up faster, earlier and harder and all around it's better.


As for the flywheel weights. I believe the Stealhy weights have to be epoxied on and are then permanent and not easily removed. Cost is about $66.00. and this is easily installed or removed as long as you have the original fasteners to put them back onto the clutch spring retainer ring.

this is a clutch weight itself that's made "Best dual sports bikes" products. I believe the list ones for the 2013 to 2016 KTm 250 engines so should fit the TC 250. Check it out. Additional cover clearance or a taller cover I don't believe is required.
bestdualsportbikes.com/clutchweights.

14+oz+clutch+weight.jpg


14 oz. clutch weight with bolts.
$64.95
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info!

I use an ARC clutch lever (similar to airtime) and have gotten the drag as good as possible like you did with adjusting it.

The clutch add on plate is interesting. The clutch spins at 1/2 the speed of the flywheel, so in theory - the 14 oz plate would have the same effect as stealhy's 7 oz flywheel weight, correct?
 
You got it and it comes off in about 10 minutes or less. Being on the clutch itself, It would have more carryover. For $65.00 you can't beat it. Its a simple on or off even at the truck or trailer with a few tools, wherever your riding. O-ring seal on the clutch cover right?
 
letitsnow said:
Thanks for the info!

I use an ARC clutch lever (similar to airtime) and have gotten the drag as good as possible like you did with adjusting it.

The clutch add on plate is interesting. The clutch spins at 1/2 the speed of the flywheel, so in theory - the 14 oz plate would have the same effect as stealhy's 7 oz flywheel weight, correct?
Click to expand...

the diameter has a lot the do with that a little weight a long way from the center of rotation vs a lot of weigth thats in close tinken im sure could explain it to us its all about leverage just like gearing
 
I say it would have more carryover, Because of its diameter. Troy, The engine will idle smoother with additional or heavier flywheel weight.

Less acceleration /Throttle application is needed to get the bike moving from a dead stop with heavier flywheel weight.

Slight fluctuations in throttle changes at rolling speeds while riding will make the bike be less jerky or erratic. It won't make any more power. It just won't have as fast acceleration with a heavier flywheel weight. Total Power output is the same.

The kinetic energy stored in the flywheel will smooth out the rotational power delivery of any engine.

Less flywheel weight may make the engine rev quicker but it also requires you to burn up the clutch quicker to get the mass weight of the bike and rider moving. Because it requires more throttle or power to be applied.
 
Have you had your idle speed checked? I think it should be up around 2,000-2,100 rpm. Also I'd check the TPS setting and make sure your clamps are tight around the throttle body. Lugging it and stalling I think would be a different issue then clutch in, and it just stalls. I will say, being at a dealer, we see people all the time turning down their idle speed because it "sounds" too high, which indeed, it wasn't. Just my .02 worth
 
Big Timmy said:
You got it and it comes off in about 10 minutes or less. Being on the clutch itself, It would have more carryover. For $65.00 you can't beat it. Its a simple on or off even at the truck or trailer with a few tools, wherever your riding. O-ring seal on the clutch cover right?
Click to expand...


Maybe I am reading it wrong, but it looks like it only is made for the 450?
 
HusqRacr said:
Have you had your idle speed checked? I think it should be up around 2,000-2,100 rpm. Also I'd check the TPS setting and make sure your clamps are tight around the throttle body. Lugging it and stalling I think would be a different issue then clutch in, and it just stalls. I will say, being at a dealer, we see people all the time turning down their idle speed because it "sounds" too high, which indeed, it wasn't. Just my .02 worth
Click to expand...


I've spent a fair amount of time playing with the idle speed. If I go any higher than where it is now, the bike tends to push me into trees (without throttle being applied) and it also won't idle down quickly. I should check the TPS. I looked at it and the factory paint marks are still lined up, but who knows where the factory had it set...
 
I use the powercommander to add fuel at idle/2% over idle to make the engine more crisp. Adjusting the tps will not yield the same results.
 
(QUOTE) Maybe I am reading it wrong, but it looks like it only is made for the 450? (QUOTE)
***********************************************************************************

You may be correct, they have them for the 450 & 501. and a nice billet side cover that hold an extra 8 ounces more oil in the cases.

Why not call them. I believe the same exact 280 lb Belleville heavy duty clutch spring From "Slaven's Racing" goes right into the clutch hat for the 250 & 300 2ts. I'm not sure about how the FC 250, 4 strokes clutch design is.
 
We don't have a riding school. These schools don't work. We have a racing program that trains riders with physical capacity prior to ever sitting down on a motorcycle.
 
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