• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

  • 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Austria - About 2014 & Newer
     TE = 2st Enduro & TC = 2st Cross

TE/TC Main Jet Swap

C

Cleaner

Husqvarna
C Class
I have a 2016 TE300 and am new to these bikes. Been riding Jap bikes for some time. Trying to dial the jetting. Want to change the main jet. Will the carb roll over enough when the clamps are loose to access the main jet via the bowl drain nut? It looks as though the bowl will hit the case when rotated and not rotate enough to allow access to the main jet via the bowl drain nut.

Is carb removal necessary to change main jet?

Thanks in advance for the help!
 
I for one have to take it out. You can pull it back and compress the air boot enough to overcome hitting the case, but the throttle cable also starts to interfere with the twist. I just don't like putting that much pressure on the cable so i don't push it. Yes, you can pull out the needle/cable and then probably twist it enough, but by then its probably easier to just remove it. Its pretty simple one you master compressing the airboot.
 
KddF1 said:
I for one have to take it out. You can pull it back and compress the air boot enough to overcome hitting the case, but the throttle cable also starts to interfere with the twist. I just don't like putting that much pressure on the cable so i don't push it. Yes, you can pull out the needle/cable and then probably twist it enough, but by then its probably easier to just remove it. Its pretty simple one you master compressing the airboot.
Click to expand...


Thank you for your feedback. Sounds like there is no need to remove the sub frame, just compress the air boot towards the rear of the bike and take the front end of the carb out of the intake boot and remove. This correct?

Thanks again for the help!
 
Absolutely that way will work, but I have never had trouble just loosening the clamps and rotating the top of the carb to the passenger side of the bike. A 14mm wrench gets the drain plug off, and the t-handle and 6mm socket that came with the bike takes care of the main jet. I can even reach past the Enduro Engineering case saver to do this. No need to take the carb out or the needle/cable out of the carb. On a 2015 TE300. YMMV
 
For sure no need to move the subframe. By hey i would try as "sethmg" said. I will give it a go again next time for sure.
 
Yes pull slide and needle lossdn boots twist and remove. Easy. My yz450 had slots on boot and couldnt twist, but then again a 4t was always a ton of work
 
Yes my "twist and remove" meant twist carb and then you can remove main and pilot jets
 
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