• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Magnificent 7

Because I never know when I can install an engine, I keep the top end in sealed plastic bags with light coat of preservative spray. I do not like the idea of assembling an engine and have it rust together before I am ready to fire it up. Humidity and condensation run rampant here in New England
 
i hear ya, and when a garage isnt heated you get alot of temperature change. i found a couple specs of rust in my "transmission horde stash"...very annoying
 
Here is one of my crank webs that was bead blasted, cleaned, acetoned, and first coat of KBS rust seal.
That stuff is on there and tough to sand between coats. I use 220 grit between coats to level out. Usually apply two light coats so it doesn't bubble.
Then afterwards I scuff and use flat VHT high heat paint.

I tested some of that KBS and had heck of time getting it back off with my bead blaster.

http://www.kbs-coatings.com/RustSeal.html

Pic on left is first coat of KBS. Next pic is finish with the VHT paint.
 

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Those back bushing on magnesium 500 cases were a bear to get out. Thought the cases were gonna crack.
Tried pressing and no luck, just marring up the little webs.
Soaked soaked and soaked more and finally got them out with bearing driver and brass hammer.
 
dartyppyt said:
Those back bushing on magnesium 500 cases were a bear to get out. Thought the cases were gonna crack.
Tried pressing and no luck, just marring up the little webs.
Soaked soaked and soaked more and finally got them out with bearing driver and brass hammer.
Click to expand...
i take it you tried heating up the cases in that area? i have to do this soon on a project and im dreading it. any other tips?
 
justintendo said:
i take it you tried heating up the cases in that area? i have to do this soon on a project and im dreading it. any other tips?
Click to expand...

I soaked them with PB Blaster. Then heated with propane heat. Soaked Heat. Soaked Heat.
Then drove them out with bearing driver and brass hammer. Other two tapped right out. This set here, I had to really rap on it good for 1st Half way. Then it moved really good. Even tried press but those lil magnesium webs start getting marred, so I stopped that.
 
Here is two fitty cylinder and head. Fresh out of blast cabinet. I cleaned everything, reed and exhaust stuff loosely bolted on. I had to rag and duct tape the heck out of this to protect bore. Thanx to previous owner who just bored it and new piston.
 

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Here is the Five Hunter ready to assemble as well. Still have to clean out all threads and both need good bubble bath.
Five Hunter is one on right. You can tell by length of cylinder studs.
 

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Here you get a laugh! Named all the bikes:

125 is; one toof five! It makes a jing jing jing!

250 is; two fitty! It makes a ting a ting a!

500 is; five hunter! It makes a bum bum bum wah!

390 is; free nine oh! It makes a bum bum ha!

430 is; four purdy! It makes a dumm dumm wah!

What's lil laugh today!
 
You are best to remove bearings from your cases by cleaning thoroughly first, then when mama is not home soak in preheated oven at 250° F for about 25 min. and if you have them correct side down they will just fall out. Propane heat is too uneven as you do not have a wide enough fan to soak heat all around the bearing
 
Jim,

That was on removing those rear swing arm bushings in rear of case. They were stubborn from electrolysis.
That what I used propane on.
Yes I heat cases for main bearings and freeze bearings. Glad you wrote that cause it's all that stuff people forget to post sometimes.
 
Ok in lieu of using the kitchen oven - in the last year I just use a inexpensive toaster even that has a thermostat. sure beats the smell.

Ok how about this for a parts washer. Friend took his old dishwasher after kitchen remodel to his workshop and hooked it up and now has a new partswasher.
 
Try to use some non aggressive detergent, if you could hook dishwasher up to a barrel of gasoline and have it drain into another can that would be awesome, the salts in the tablets leave small white alli corrosion marks.
 
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