• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Magnificent 7

Here is clutch cover for next one going together. 82 CR 250
I enameled the husqvarna logo.
This is for the fancy one with black shock bodies, red springs and polished reservoirs.
 

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you can use any liquid cooled lever to get the effect, i know the 87-88s had it factory. or phillip offers a new ss version..was going to suggest that as well, but wasnt sure how truly original you were wanting it to be. tis a nice upgrade. motor looks great! replating everything is a great touch
 
you can use any liquid cooled lever to get the effect, i know the 87-88s had it factory. or phillip offers a new ss version..was going to suggest that as well, but wasnt sure how truly original you were wanting it to be. tis a nice upgrade. motor looks great! replating everything is a great touch

Thanx, ok I will be on the hunt. I like to clean all threads out, clean all bushing holes, replate everything so I know when engine goes back together, won't have any grounding issues. Plus there is nothing worse than putting in a new bolt and there is silicone and junk at bottom of threads. Then bolt bottoms out and doesn't tighten enough or it pops the threads.
I also built a lil engine stand to hold cases on their sides when I assemble.
 
This is what two fitty engine gonna look like.
In this frame.
 

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its a shame they are too nice to ride!!:thumbsup:

Funny! But you are correct. Kinda like the older guys I know that have collections of the old 400 cross and 250 mags.
Now I know why cause those bikes were special back in there day. These ol girls are special in my era. One of them will be a rider. The others will be just yard gassers! Just pull them out and rip some sod up in the air!
But I regret not ever keeping my old ones and that is why I am doing these. Is it to make a buck some day? No, I think it is a passion that we all have for these bikes like rest of you guys in the vintage section. Maybe grand kids come over sometime and say what the heck is that? Well, that is the 82 1/2 Husky CR 500, the baddest one of them all. If you can kick it, to get it started, then you can ride er! But hang on and stay out of Grandmas garden and flowers! If you don't then you ain't gonna get any of Grandma's cookies out of the oven! Grandpa ain't gonna get any cooking period!
 
What are some of your thoughts to storing engines till next spring. Got 1st minus cylinder cause it has to be bored yet.
Everything in engine ( bearings, shafts, crank, rod etc..... Was assembled with STP oil treatment). Stuff sticks like honey and real slippery. Engine is in giant space/zip loc bag. Should I go ahead and put tranny oil in it? Spray the heck out of engine with Wd 40 or silicone spray? Share your thoughts cause not going to be till late spring till have chassis ready?
Thought about filling crank web but afraid front of engine with out motor mount bolts might make it leak and ruin gasket? Same thing with filling tranny all way up to top?
Got all new bolts, cheese head screws and machine screws in it, out of stainless steel.
Think I should leave some holes in bag so moisture don't build inside bag?
 
I would fill the crank and gbox with engine oil, leave it soak for a few hours then tip it out and then cover it up. ive seen v8's after a few weeks under water be brought up, dried and fired up with no real issues. the engine oil takes ages to break down. two stroke oil however will break down very quickly. I sank our outboard and the consensus was float it, , pull the plugs and empty it out , drain float bowls and new fuel and get it running in 30+ minutes minimum before little ends and big ends start to rust.
 
Love the Motor pics, they sure are gorgeous when rebuilt. Also, gotta love the tall JAVA cup among all the spray cans and stuff. :)
 
Thanx guys ! I gonna go with both tips for storage. I will use the CRC stuff and motor oil.
Been working on getting the Cr 250 cases ready to assemble next week and get the Cr 500 ones painted up.
Thinking about doing lower front fork legs on two fitty black with Red Husqvarna lettering?
Got laugh out of Java cup!
 
Here is nother thought?
On 82 cr 430. I could spray shock bodies in the cinnamon tank color to match the tank?
Also, could do lower front fork legs in cinnamon tank color as well with gold Husqvarna lettering?
Or just leave stock colors?
 
I did my legs and swing arm in black...its a personal taste. I still like the look of the all white now.... will change it back one day
 
for me, i really like the bare metal or possibly clear coat on fork legs. the crc stuff we have at work. it is very similiar to cosmoline when dry. i would have no concerns spraying a freshly bored jug or whatever and sitting on a shelf or floor indefinitely. just make sure you spray it on dry metal so it sticks. brake cleaner takes it off but you cant rub it off with your finger. all the projects that you have sitting around, you will find it handy..we build carriers and wreckers where i work and we spray all the hydraulic fittings all over the truck to prevent salt corrosion. 2 or 3 coats and it will withstand weather decently
 
http://i600.photobucket.com/albums/tt83/dartyppyt/Mobile Uploads/photo_zpsb0e03c32.jpg

http://i600.photobucket.com/albums/tt83/dartyppyt/Mobile Uploads/photo_zps3affae5b.jpg

Here are some shocks done so far.

One pair I did on my own and 3 pairs I sent off to have Drew do @ WER Racing.

By the time you order a kit, chase down what the kit doesn't include, get the oil and find a place to charge them, it is not worth it .

Plus Drew can save you a buck here and there, like straighten a shaft, etc...

I will tell you A + work!

Drew is an Ohlins Magician!
 
for me, i really like the bare metal or possibly clear coat on fork legs. the crc stuff we have at work. it is very similiar to cosmoline when dry. i would have no concerns spraying a freshly bored jug or whatever and sitting on a shelf or floor indefinitely. just make sure you spray it on dry metal so it sticks. brake cleaner takes it off but you cant rub it off with your finger. all the projects that you have sitting around, you will find it handy..we build carriers and wreckers where i work and we spray all the hydraulic fittings all over the truck to prevent salt corrosion. 2 or 3 coats and it will withstand weather decently

Yeah definately gonna start using that stuff!

Well, take some work but I could polish the lower fork legs for the 250, do Husqvarna lettering in red, then clear coat?
Might look good then black or polished rims? Just have to beed blast fork legs, sand out all casting marks, then polish. Well, when done, my finger tips be good to become a safe cracker!
 
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