-
Hi everyone,
As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.
When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.
Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.
Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.
Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.
Thanks for your patience and support!
Magnificent 7
- Thread starter dartyppyt
- Start date
dartyppyt
Husqvarna
Pro Class
Thanx guys!
Not sure which one I will end up as rider?
I do not want to tear them up, cause this is a lot of work.
Troy:
82 CR 250
82 XC 125
83 CR 250
82 CR 430
79 390 OR but converting it to like an 80 CR
82 CR 500
Down the road maybe do a 250 Mag and a 400 Cross.
Short term: get them done and tweeked, jetting wise.
Long Term: well that is another chapter with pipes, porting, intakes and carb mods.
One of these bikes, I might just throw everything at it. Etched H logos in the rims, polished cases, anodized engine covers, anodized head machined, polished fork legs, nitrate the tubes black,polished hubs, anodized aluminum air box, modify aluminum tank to accept dry break system, do a custom bad ass paint job on tank. 1 1/8 anodized bars, polished triple clamps and maybe make an aluminum swing arm? Engine will get porting, V Force 3 intakes, polish the tranny, balance crank, make an anodized brake stay rod and pedal. I may hold off on the 83 to do this! There I go dreaming again!
Not sure which one I will end up as rider?
I do not want to tear them up, cause this is a lot of work.
Troy:
82 CR 250
82 XC 125
83 CR 250
82 CR 430
79 390 OR but converting it to like an 80 CR
82 CR 500
Down the road maybe do a 250 Mag and a 400 Cross.
Short term: get them done and tweeked, jetting wise.
Long Term: well that is another chapter with pipes, porting, intakes and carb mods.
One of these bikes, I might just throw everything at it. Etched H logos in the rims, polished cases, anodized engine covers, anodized head machined, polished fork legs, nitrate the tubes black,polished hubs, anodized aluminum air box, modify aluminum tank to accept dry break system, do a custom bad ass paint job on tank. 1 1/8 anodized bars, polished triple clamps and maybe make an aluminum swing arm? Engine will get porting, V Force 3 intakes, polish the tranny, balance crank, make an anodized brake stay rod and pedal. I may hold off on the 83 to do this! There I go dreaming again!
oldbikedude
Husqvarna
Pro Class
Yes! Do it.
dartyppyt
Husqvarna
Pro Class
Dang! Glad all that is done!
Now got to run them to Indy tomorrow.
They can blow up as far as I am concerned!
View: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=q951qv7EbKs
Now got to run them to Indy tomorrow.
They can blow up as far as I am concerned!
Attachments
You sure you don't want to keep a set not anodized, or at least until you see how the others turn out?
dartyppyt
Husqvarna
Pro Class
Yes, thought about that. Let's hope I did my homework. The place I am using mixes their own colors.
My goal is to have them match a good Nordisk in the original gold. If that happens then the can log the color as like Husky gold so other could send them rims and also shock reservoirs. I have a new wheel, hub with spokes that my buddy is going to send me from back in day. It's new and sitting in his garage in a box. I have one extra front rim and two extra rear rims at home. They are just not prepped for anodizing.
If all else fails, guess I get couple more off ebay. The problem usually with ones off ebay. As soon as you un lace them, they usually start cracking or come apart soon. So, they have to be welded for insurance. Even if I weld the inside, usually they crack on the anodized side.
Now, I am hoping that I did not accidentally grab 4043 rod when I tig welded them, instead of 5356. If I did, then a spot in anodizing process where weld is, will be blackish grey. There was one rim, but I re ground the weld out and hit it with 5356 rod. See some of these, I welded year or so ago! Guess we find out soon.
So the goal is:
2 sets gold for 82 500 and 82 430
1 set clear for 82 250 (almost tempted to go red)? Be cool to do them in red then etch a Husky logo in between spokes done in natural aluminum and black. Stagger them! 36 spokes, so 18 in black and 18 aluminum color or silver.
1 set blue for 83 250 ( Be cool to etch between spoke the Husky logo in natural aluminum/silver color).
We will see how my visit goes?
Keep you guys posted.
dartyppyt
Husqvarna
Pro Class
Rim Visit to Colors inc.
Just paid visit and dropped the 4 sets of rims off. Super nice guys to do business with and they got a Husqvarna motorcycle lesson. He said friend of his had an old 360 that was a monster!
While there, I showed them a good well preserved Nordick rim in the gold. Actually, they might cut a piece out of it for keeps. But they also are going to run a new modern sample for keeps: called Husky gold for rims and shock reservoirs.
The rim is bent pretty bad anyway so am willing to let them keep it or cut a section out.
So here is an option for you if you want to restore your old Nordisk rims back to original color.
This is for 82 prior darker gold rims. Not the 83 up lighter gold. But if you need those done no problem but you will have to provide them a sample to match.
Now if you send them a set if rims and you expect them to strip the anodizing, remove nicks and scratches. Your rims will get returned.
Here is how you need to prep them:
Use Heavy Duty Easy Off brand oven cleaner. Has to be warm in your shop. Make sure there is ventilation.
Soak heck out of them. You will see anodizing coming off to like a whitish gray primer under neath. Keep going cause that stuff has to come off as well. I use steel wool and gloves to scrub it off as well. When you get to the aluminum. The aluminum turns black. That's ok, it is not eating your rim. Get everything off rim and then steel wool black smut off.
Wash rim in hot soapy water and inspect to see if anything is remaining. Remove all your steel rim pins. They will effect anodizing process with a reaction.
Next either glass bead blast whole rim or soda blast them. Pay particular attn to the rim pin holes and counter sunk spoke holes and spoke holes themselves. Take about 15 mins to blast a rim. Soda takes longer.
Next find where rim was originally welded. It is about 1/4 inch band on inside and outside of rim.
You want to grind a small V in old weld. I do rim lips first, usually where they crack first them weld in ward.
Do both inside and outside. You know with aluminum welding. Area has to be clean, clean, clean!
Whomever is welding the rim. You must use 5356 rod or wire. You only want to fill the area your welding. You don't want to hang around rim with a lot of heat. If you use 4043 rod or wire. When anodizing, it turns greyish black where weld is. Means your rim is going to have a skunk stripe!
Using small air grinder or electric grinder, with 40 grit disc. Grind weld down almost flush to rim. Then change to an 80 grit disc to level it even with rim surface. Take time grinding so you are not building heat with your grinding. You can get it hot and shall say melt it/smear it. I like the little angled air grinders with lil round, screw type twist off discs. Gets into the rounded and small areas perfect. If you have a gouge, nick or chip. Weld that up and grind flush as well.
Rim surface prep. With a grinder mounted wire wheel. I wire wheel inside of rim shiny. You know where tire and tube sits.
Use a fine not too aggressive wire in your wheel. Just enough to kinda shine it clean.
Next on outer rim surface. I use a 5 inch electric palm sander and also a 6 inch air DA sander. Electric palm one will work. Just takes lil longer. I use both.
Start with 120 grit on whole rim to get scratches out and level/blend welds. Then switch to 220 grit discs. Look for scratches coming out. If not go back to 120 grit. Keep sanders moving so area are feathered in. Don't use sander to shall say, dig a hole.
Once everything looks good in 220, switch to 320 discs. Inspect for scratches.
Once good, grab you a bucket of soapy water with dish washing liquid in water. Grab you some 600 grit wet sand paper. Sand whole rim even and look for any scratches. Then wipe rim off. Wet sand rim with 1000 grit or 1500 grit wet sand paper. Inspect for any surface scratches or flaws. Once done, wipe rim off then clean with soapy water and rinse.
Polish: I use a buffing wheel on my pedestal grinder. I buff with red jewelers rouge.
I generally buff whole rim once, then use aluminum polish to remove residue. Then buff with jewelers rouge again, then final hand polish with favorite aluminum polish, by hand. I use a product called "Green Dragon". It is a green liquid I saw an aluminum trailer place use in Iowa. Good stuff! Does it remove the black smut and leave a shine !
Now you are ready to send them off. I zip tie the front rim over the rear rim. Kinda like a circle in a circle and stretch wrap them together. If shipping, prob bubble wrap them or wrap in a fluffy cheap, Walmart towel.
To do a set of rims ( front and rear)! At Colors Inc, you are probably looking at $130 -150 bux.
Remember, they are doing this down a line by hand and monitoring color under samples and observation.
The more rims you send the cheaper it gets. Meaning volume! There minimum charge is $120 any way.
So for 2 pairs, you can probably get them done around $200-$225 bux. See the difference.
So you could do 4 rims for price of about 1 Sun rim. That's if you put some elbow grease in it.
If you guys are interested. I will post their contact info?
The Husky Gold is a satin color and was originally done that way for exterior protection and to not show scratches. It holds up good.
I am doing 1 set flat clear, but have lil trick up my sleeve for down the road.
1 set in the blue, which is satin.
2 sets in the Husky gold.
They do Schumaker drag racing, All the Holley carb stuff and all those aluminum AN hose fittings and tons of other companies stuff. They showed me a red anodized Holley Carb and that thing was sharp!
Just paid visit and dropped the 4 sets of rims off. Super nice guys to do business with and they got a Husqvarna motorcycle lesson. He said friend of his had an old 360 that was a monster!
While there, I showed them a good well preserved Nordick rim in the gold. Actually, they might cut a piece out of it for keeps. But they also are going to run a new modern sample for keeps: called Husky gold for rims and shock reservoirs.
The rim is bent pretty bad anyway so am willing to let them keep it or cut a section out.
So here is an option for you if you want to restore your old Nordisk rims back to original color.
This is for 82 prior darker gold rims. Not the 83 up lighter gold. But if you need those done no problem but you will have to provide them a sample to match.
Now if you send them a set if rims and you expect them to strip the anodizing, remove nicks and scratches. Your rims will get returned.
Here is how you need to prep them:
Use Heavy Duty Easy Off brand oven cleaner. Has to be warm in your shop. Make sure there is ventilation.
Soak heck out of them. You will see anodizing coming off to like a whitish gray primer under neath. Keep going cause that stuff has to come off as well. I use steel wool and gloves to scrub it off as well. When you get to the aluminum. The aluminum turns black. That's ok, it is not eating your rim. Get everything off rim and then steel wool black smut off.
Wash rim in hot soapy water and inspect to see if anything is remaining. Remove all your steel rim pins. They will effect anodizing process with a reaction.
Next either glass bead blast whole rim or soda blast them. Pay particular attn to the rim pin holes and counter sunk spoke holes and spoke holes themselves. Take about 15 mins to blast a rim. Soda takes longer.
Next find where rim was originally welded. It is about 1/4 inch band on inside and outside of rim.
You want to grind a small V in old weld. I do rim lips first, usually where they crack first them weld in ward.
Do both inside and outside. You know with aluminum welding. Area has to be clean, clean, clean!
Whomever is welding the rim. You must use 5356 rod or wire. You only want to fill the area your welding. You don't want to hang around rim with a lot of heat. If you use 4043 rod or wire. When anodizing, it turns greyish black where weld is. Means your rim is going to have a skunk stripe!
Using small air grinder or electric grinder, with 40 grit disc. Grind weld down almost flush to rim. Then change to an 80 grit disc to level it even with rim surface. Take time grinding so you are not building heat with your grinding. You can get it hot and shall say melt it/smear it. I like the little angled air grinders with lil round, screw type twist off discs. Gets into the rounded and small areas perfect. If you have a gouge, nick or chip. Weld that up and grind flush as well.
Rim surface prep. With a grinder mounted wire wheel. I wire wheel inside of rim shiny. You know where tire and tube sits.
Use a fine not too aggressive wire in your wheel. Just enough to kinda shine it clean.
Next on outer rim surface. I use a 5 inch electric palm sander and also a 6 inch air DA sander. Electric palm one will work. Just takes lil longer. I use both.
Start with 120 grit on whole rim to get scratches out and level/blend welds. Then switch to 220 grit discs. Look for scratches coming out. If not go back to 120 grit. Keep sanders moving so area are feathered in. Don't use sander to shall say, dig a hole.
Once everything looks good in 220, switch to 320 discs. Inspect for scratches.
Once good, grab you a bucket of soapy water with dish washing liquid in water. Grab you some 600 grit wet sand paper. Sand whole rim even and look for any scratches. Then wipe rim off. Wet sand rim with 1000 grit or 1500 grit wet sand paper. Inspect for any surface scratches or flaws. Once done, wipe rim off then clean with soapy water and rinse.
Polish: I use a buffing wheel on my pedestal grinder. I buff with red jewelers rouge.
I generally buff whole rim once, then use aluminum polish to remove residue. Then buff with jewelers rouge again, then final hand polish with favorite aluminum polish, by hand. I use a product called "Green Dragon". It is a green liquid I saw an aluminum trailer place use in Iowa. Good stuff! Does it remove the black smut and leave a shine !
Now you are ready to send them off. I zip tie the front rim over the rear rim. Kinda like a circle in a circle and stretch wrap them together. If shipping, prob bubble wrap them or wrap in a fluffy cheap, Walmart towel.
To do a set of rims ( front and rear)! At Colors Inc, you are probably looking at $130 -150 bux.
Remember, they are doing this down a line by hand and monitoring color under samples and observation.
The more rims you send the cheaper it gets. Meaning volume! There minimum charge is $120 any way.
So for 2 pairs, you can probably get them done around $200-$225 bux. See the difference.
So you could do 4 rims for price of about 1 Sun rim. That's if you put some elbow grease in it.
If you guys are interested. I will post their contact info?
The Husky Gold is a satin color and was originally done that way for exterior protection and to not show scratches. It holds up good.
I am doing 1 set flat clear, but have lil trick up my sleeve for down the road.
1 set in the blue, which is satin.
2 sets in the Husky gold.
They do Schumaker drag racing, All the Holley carb stuff and all those aluminum AN hose fittings and tons of other companies stuff. They showed me a red anodized Holley Carb and that thing was sharp!
Attachments
dartyppyt
Husqvarna
Pro Class
John Penton video now available:
Scroll down for non Blue Ray Dvd at bottom of page:
http://store.pdmtv.com/2014/11/penton-the-john-penton-story-blu-ray/
Scroll down for non Blue Ray Dvd at bottom of page:
http://store.pdmtv.com/2014/11/penton-the-john-penton-story-blu-ray/
dartyppyt
Husqvarna
Pro Class
Think I got everything figured out in my head for the 83 250!
She gonna be sweet!
Cylinder head got a Mohawk last night!
Got brake rod, rear brake lever/tip/hubs figured out.
Color scheme down overall and know how I am going to design the graphics on the tank!
Air box, gonna re fab again out of lighter weight aluminum, plus better airflow towards Husky newsletter.
So have a bunch of parts and materials on the way!
Red Rover, Red Rover, gonna design the bike all over!
She gonna be sweet!
Cylinder head got a Mohawk last night!
Got brake rod, rear brake lever/tip/hubs figured out.
Color scheme down overall and know how I am going to design the graphics on the tank!
Air box, gonna re fab again out of lighter weight aluminum, plus better airflow towards Husky newsletter.
So have a bunch of parts and materials on the way!
Red Rover, Red Rover, gonna design the bike all over!
justintendo
klotz super techniplate junkie
nice touch with the donuts! i run renthal grips but those are nice because i like the full diamond style. where did you find those?
dartyppyt
Husqvarna
Pro Class
Hall's has them and they come on the new Husky's. The donuts I got from Rocky Mountain MC.
I run these on my modern bikes. They are Pro Grip brand and hold up real good.
I also got a set of red and black Husky ones for the 82 Cr 250.
justintendo
klotz super techniplate junkie
im not a donut guy but im going to get some of those grips
dartyppyt
Husqvarna
Pro Class
Well been trying to figure out a color scheme for my front fork legs that look good with polished hubs and blue rims.
Here is what I finally came up with but scrapped the concept and sticking with white fork legs, blue Husqvarna lettering but now with a twist. Got my blue triples on and those will look good with new bars, polished big bar mounts and white,blue and yellow fat bar pad. But it is on back order.
Thinking about polished lever mounts , throttle and blue levers.
Will post forks installed later in triples once paint is half ways dry.
I tried a lot of color schemes yesterday . All yellow, white and blue lettering . White with yellow lettering and this was the final but not going with it.
This fork leg looks sharp as heck but no go when on bike!
I took out all the sand casting pits and sanded these down and put a mirror polish on these, then clear coated.
Thank gosh I have a beed blaster, cause it is like a magic eraser.
Here is what I finally came up with but scrapped the concept and sticking with white fork legs, blue Husqvarna lettering but now with a twist. Got my blue triples on and those will look good with new bars, polished big bar mounts and white,blue and yellow fat bar pad. But it is on back order.
Thinking about polished lever mounts , throttle and blue levers.
Will post forks installed later in triples once paint is half ways dry.
I tried a lot of color schemes yesterday . All yellow, white and blue lettering . White with yellow lettering and this was the final but not going with it.
This fork leg looks sharp as heck but no go when on bike!
I took out all the sand casting pits and sanded these down and put a mirror polish on these, then clear coated.
Thank gosh I have a beed blaster, cause it is like a magic eraser.
Attachments
Norman Foley
Husqvarna
Pro Class
Grips are actually Domino, not Pro Grip. The "d" does look like an upside down "p". My '09 had the same grips in black/red and my 12 Husaberg had the same grip and colors as my '15 Husky, just with "Husaberg".
I get the same Domino grips, sans Husky logo, from G2.
oldbikedude
Husqvarna
Pro Class
Quality work as usual! I like the white with blue, but one of the yellow touches is enough. 3 husky references is a bit much on one fork leg, but You are the master artist. No matter how you do it, it will look great. 
dartyppyt
Husqvarna
Pro Class
Old Bike Dude,
Yeah at first I sprayed bottom logo on and thought? Humm? The regular sand cast logo is centered dead middle of fork.
So looks like a big gap from blue sand cast logo up to fork wiper. That's why through the writing up top to balance it out. I thought exact thing and means we thinking alike.
Wait till you see how I reshoot the tank and then you will see how it all ties in together.
Here is triples and fork cap on, that I had to file and polish from previous hammer ass!
Yeah at first I sprayed bottom logo on and thought? Humm? The regular sand cast logo is centered dead middle of fork.
So looks like a big gap from blue sand cast logo up to fork wiper. That's why through the writing up top to balance it out. I thought exact thing and means we thinking alike.
Wait till you see how I reshoot the tank and then you will see how it all ties in together.
Here is triples and fork cap on, that I had to file and polish from previous hammer ass!
