• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Magnificent 7

I also usually find where the original seem is and make a nice weld pass on inside of rim, so now that spokes are off, they don't crack and come apart. I do a smooth pass so tube won't be bothered by it.
 
Here is rim I have to finish up. See where I had to drill in order to drive out the rim pin. I will tig the hole back up and you will not ever notice, after I grind and sand it to blend back in rim.
Also you can see pass I made with tig welder on inside where seem is. Then finish grinding it and sanding it smooth so doesn't bother inner tube.
Those rim pins can be quite rusty and just snap off when you try to twist them out.
 

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Some of these Nordics had a brushed finish on the aluminum before they anodized them originally.
They would of had to spin the rim without it moving from side to side. Then had a pad come down to make the brush marks. I do not know how to reproduce that with what the did?
 
they used to be on the older stuff. my 79 wr250 had them...and 17 inch wheel! you sure didnt have to worry about that 250 busting its valve stem off. still had rim locks as well
 
rim pins are for fast tyre changes pre Moooooose tubes. they would stop the tyre spinning and ripping the valve stem out with low pressure but in a flat tyre change, they are a minor hold up c/w a rim lock. just need to be aware of them when refitting new tube. once mooooooose became the tyre of choice at the world enduro champs... husky dropped the rim pins.
 
You guys are right on the money! I plan to put them back in, except for the 125. Sometimes the old ways worked the best.
My new 310, spins the tire on the rim about once a year from the torque. That's with two rim locks cranked down. It is a pain to let all the air out, C clamp the tire, and put wood between the spokes/swing arm to move tire, so valve stem lines back up. Even the front does it too, from braking.
I found these before I threw all the old ones away. I will drill all the big bore (Rear) rims after i get them back from anodizer. They only stick out like 2-3 mm. I know they are a pain but they work. You can get 100 of these for like $8.

Also, gonna stick lil thread lock on them when tapping them in new holes.

I have some rims that were spaced about 3 inches apart and some are like 6 inches apart. Each side is staggered.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-dowel-pins/=unszha
 
I have these pins in the 78 390. Fantastic idea !
My only gripe is that with the new wheels for the 390 Auto, I don't have them. The trade off was the fact that the rims were NOS Akront date stamped 6/77. I don't think I will need them with the auto as the power should be smoother. I did think about drilling the rims as you are going to do, but it never happened !
 
grouty said:
I have these pins in the 78 390. Fantastic idea !
My only gripe is that with the new wheels for the 390 Auto, I don't have them. The trade off was the fact that the rims were NOS Akront date stamped 6/77. I don't think I will need them with the auto as the power should be smoother. I did think about drilling the rims as you are going to do, but it never happened !
Click to expand...

Grouty,
You might be ok if you use two rim locks. If not, you can go back and drill them.
 
Buchannon' sells these too @ $8 for bout 20 of them.
But I like the straight roll pin ones.
 

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When we mounted the rear tyre it was drilled for two rim locks. I am hoping that will do. If not, it will all come apart at some point and be drilled.

Best you get back to the workshop ..... you have a wee bit to do :rolleyes:
 
My Stormer when new came with sheet metal screws through the rim and into the tire bead. Worked very well and made tyre changing easier
 
My old 1978 SWM RS250 GS had the self tapping screws in the rims. Fine when you put them in there. Try removing them years later ... they usually just snap off !



DSC00035_zpsb0145070.jpg
 
Sure does! That's first time ever seen that! Learn something new every day.
That's a beaut! Did you restore that? If you did, very nice job!
 
That was pretty much how I bought it. It came from Andy at HVA Factory before he started the business. (we have known each other for a long time). All I had to do was get it running again !
I spent over a year searching for a piston. Finally got one and had it running. That is the most awesome 250 I have ever ridden. The power hit is like nothing else. And there are two distinct ones. Not for the feint hearted. It now resides in a nice warm cellar somewhere in Germany.

Still prefer the 390 though :notworthy:
 
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