• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Lowering '11 TE310

mnb

mnb

Husqvarna
Pro Class
I can barely touch ground on my 310 let alone mount it. I do need to double check the preload, but given that I tip the scales pretty severely, I doubt I'll be able to touch better after setting that.

So I'm thinking of getting it lowered about 1". But that will cause problems with the kickstand. The stand is made of cheap aluminum and I think requires non-common gear to weld. I could just buy a short stand from the lowered '12 250 I guess, but I think it would be too short.

So I'm looking for suggestions on how to handle the kickstand problem.
 
Take a sawzall or cutoff tool and whack it down to correct length after you lower it. That's what I had to do to my KLR, they are too long from the factory.
 
mnb said:
That would remove the foot, which is necessary.
Click to expand...

Remove the foot as close as possible to the base, cut off a little at a time from the stand until you reach the desired angle of lean (not forgetting to place the foot on the bottom of the leg each time you try), get the foot welded back on, job done.
That's how I did mine.
I'd suggest that the you should be able to lower the stand with the bike vertical, I think I made mine a touch too long and sometimes have to push the bike away from me slightly in order to get it down.
I do agree that the stands are crap though, I think they are too close to the bike, i.e. not enough of an angle, when trying to use them and unless you are on perfect ground the bike is top heavy.
 
mnb said:
I could just buy a short stand from the lowered '12 250 I guess, but I think it would be too short.
Click to expand...

If you buy the "short stand" that you mentioned, you can add length as described.

WRT the strength of the Husky AL kick-stands, I routinely pivot my bike (08 510) on the AL stand and it's OK so far. That puts all of the weight of the bike on the stand and flexes it. Considering that this is the same material that is used to aircraft landing gear, I hope there's not a problem.

I'm not sure, but the original steel stand (pre-09) may fit the new bikes. I upgraded to the forged stand, but I originally considered cutting my steal stand and welding in a 10mm bolt to the foot and a threaded section of heavy wall tubing to the shaft. Threading the two parts together with a lock nut would provide some length adjustment.

Talk to Dan at Motoexotica. He can tell you if the old part will fit your bike.
 

MorrisBetter said:
WRT the strength of the Husky AL kick-stands, I routinely pivot my bike (08 510) on the AL stand and it's OK so far. That puts all of the weight of the bike on the stand and flexes it.
Click to expand...

With me off the bike and it on the stand, I can reach over, put one finger on the seat and pull lightly towards me and see the stand flex. That pretty much demonstrates the weakness of the stand right there.

Aircraft landing gear are manufactured to different sizes and specifications. I seriously doubt Husky goes through 1% of what it takes to qualify aircraft landing gear for use.
MorrisBetter said:
Ithe original steel stand (pre-09) may fit the new bikes.
Click to expand...

If so, that would solve every problem I have with the new stand. I know quite a few people with the equipment to cut and weld steel, plus the steel stand is quite rugged.
 
An inexpensive solution.....cut the leg to length then fabricate a foot out of scrap aluminium (very easy to do with a hacksaw & file) then drill and tap a hole in the base of the leg, and attach the foot with lock tight and a button head screw. I would counter sink the foot and file off the top of the button head screw so the botton is flat.

Cheap fix
 
I did some parts cross referencing on the old steel stand that went on the 250-510 models up to '08. All the other part numbers (pivot bolt, springs, etc) are the same as for the current sidestand. I think the SM stand will be too short, but the TE stand could easily be cut and welded to the exact length I like. It'll cost me $105 + t&s plus a six pack and gas to get to whomever does the job for me. Not too bad. Plus the end result is a very rugged stand. It also leaves me with an unmodified stock stand to keep on the extremely off chance I ever sell the bike.

Thanks everyone for the suggestions. I'm going to wait for a while before making the call to lower the bike, but if I decide to go that route, I have the plan in place. In fact, even if I don't lower it, I'll probably swap in the old style stand because it's 20x more rugged. Looks like it'll have to get cut down about 1/2", though.
 
Hehe, if you think the newer style aluminum stand is crap you will most likely be very underwhelmed with the old one. It is even closer to the bike's centerline when extended unless seriously modified but, it is steel so easier to modify with common shop tools. The newer aluminum version works WAY better than its predecessor in my experience.
 
mnb said:
Like I said originally...
Click to expand...

Hi,

I just took mine to my local alluminium welding engineer.
£10.00 (approx $16) and it was sorted, don't think it required anything other than normal alloy welding (mig).
Hope you get it sorted.
 
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