FE/FC Looking for some FE501 Feedback

[Motosportz]

I did call Hall's. $125 to reflash and another $100 for a bar mounted switch. Not sure who posted the $50 but they must know someone personally and did it off the books or something.

I'd spend the $125 in a heartbeat, heat is not good for stuff.

 

[Russ Henry]

My reflash was $50 plus mail. I must have got in before the demand went up. I heard the map switch does not make much diff. Let us know how it works

 

[reveille]

Does anyone know what the official map name is I need loaded? Seems the name euro map isn't the official name it more has a serial number or part number associated with the map that's what I'm looking for

 

[reveille]

So I found this info. Anyone familiar with this that can verify it's accurate? http://www.trailtech.net/electrical/ignition-map-switch
Sounds like the new number ends with 701 and trailtech is behind the revisions.

 

[reveille]

Why not just buy a JD tuner instead of flashing the ECU?

That 501 looks sweet !

I'm starting to think a JD would be all I need. This whole reflash business is tiring. I liked having iBeat for my 310 and don't like to be at a dealers mercy for ECU work.

 

[Motosportz]

I'm starting to think a JD would be all I need. This whole reflash business is tiring. I liked having iBeat for my 310 and don't like to be at a dealers mercy for ECU work.

Do the reflash. The JD is a piggyback, it only adds or subtracts from the base map. A good base map to start with is worth it and might eliminate the need for the JD altogether. I;m a fan of the on the fly tunability of the JD for sure but believe having a solid base map for sure the best starting point.

 

[Huskynoobee]

Haha, the venerable New Husky needs FI Work? I thought these problems were things of the Italian past.

I feel even better about my TE449.

 

[Fast1]

Does anyone know what the official map name is I need loaded? Seems the name euro map isn't the official name it more has a serial number or part number associated with the map that's what I'm looking for

From what I was told by my dealer...

The bike comes with a green sticker 500 XC-W USA map.

You want the most current "Euro Unrestricted" map loaded on your bike.

This is what was placed on mine. A knowledgeable
dealer should easily be competent enough to do this for you.


With the JD tuner you will be guessing what settings to run unless you have access to a dyno.

My dealer told me that the KTM 500 EXC and XCW are locked each with their green sticker fuel mapping and they were not allowed to changed it. Thus one of the huge advantages of the Husky product of not having to run a lean fuel map like your bike currently has.

 

[reveille]

Helpful knowledgeble dealers are few and far between these parts. I am an hour out of Chicago, not a big dirt bike region(State) by any means. If I owned a cruiser I'd be all set... I have an appointment with Hall's Thursday and will make the trek down to have the map loaded. Looks like the newest map is KM787EU12C0701

 

[Maccer]

G'day I have put 260klm on my 2014 fe501 ran it in as the manual said and have noticed a vibration through the foot pegs from the first ride,I have only owned yamahas before and they don't have this feeling,not sure if it is a husky thing or not , I have checked the engine mounts ,critical fasteners etc but still there any feedback would put my mind at ease,has anyone in australia had there ECM re flashed to the eu file not sure what is installed for Australian configuration is there a aftermarket ECM map tool like the yamahas,I have put the oem map switch on and haven't noticed a great deal of difference between the standard and aggressive settings ,everything else on the bike is great heaps of controllable torque ,pionts and shoots straight off the floor no more yamaha for me i have been converted sorry for being blind for so long

 

[Jenkinator]

Hi guys I posted this before but she is getting a serious front wobble up at speed. Someone said get your wheels balanced but it happens on the dirt and really bad in deep sand. I am coming from a ktm 350 with a scotts damper and the 350 would just plow through no problems the husky is really sketchy! Would a damper eliminate this problem or could it be something else? Anyone else noticing this?

 

[bowser]

mine was the same, tighten your steering stem bearing up really tight.
Fixed mine, feels great now

 

[reveille]

While installing a new front tire yesterday, I decided to throw my rim(5.5 hours) on the tire balancer. OMG, it was bent beyond any rim I've seen in a while. It took me 45 minutes of careful adjustment to get it back straight again. There's no way this rim was bent by just trail riding and it had to have come from the dealer all cadywompass. I did have a high speed vibration that was unsettling and once I finish the rear tire swap I am sure that this will be an improvement.

 

[Fast1]

Hi guys I posted this before but she is getting a serious front wobble up at speed. Someone said get your wheels balanced but it happens on the dirt and really bad in deep sand. I am coming from a ktm 350 with a scotts damper and the 350 would just plow through no problems the husky is really sketchy! Would a damper eliminate this problem or could it be something else? Anyone else noticing this?

I noticed the exact same issue with mine this last weekend riding sand at speed.. 50 mph plus while
my friend with a KTM 500 had no issues at all. We swapped bikes repeatedly and there was a definite difference.

He also thought since he balanced his wheels right away that unbalanced wheel in sand was causing the issue. He added 3 oz on the front and 3.5 oz on the back opposite of the rim locks. If we would have tools with we would have swapped wheels for a test.

I tried increasing rear sag, adjusting the clickers.. ect.. and nothing would eliminate it.

I'll be adding some stick on weights this week and test again this weekend.

Reveille .. Did you also balance your wheels? Did you just adjust your spokes to true the wheel?

 

[reveille]

Yes I am balancing them. I need a replacement front and rear tube and plan to buy them today on my way home from work. Since the rim is bare, I decided to throw it on the balancer and check for true. That's when I realized how badly it was setup from the factory. Yes I adjusted the rim by working the spokes like normal. I used to race BMX for many years and would regularly build rims so truing motorcycle rims is something I've been pretty good at and comes naturally. It just takes patience and a sharp eye. I use a Harbor freight wheel balancer with a homebrew truing guide and motion pro spoke wrench.

 

[Fast1]

Any idea what the rim lock weighs and if the bare rim excluding tire, tube and rim lock is in balance?

 

[Jenkinator]

Good to know I am not the only one. Let us know how you go fast1 interesting that the ktm was fine though as they are very similar bikes

 

[Jenkinator]

A mate who got a 570 was told by the mechanic that they pushed the rear axle back as far as they could because it increases the wheel base and helps the front end from being so twitchy? Just letting you know i am certainly no mechanic and have no idea if this is true though.

 

[Tinken]

I did call Hall's. $125 to reflash and another $100 for a bar mounted switch. Not sure who posted the $50 but they must know someone personally and did it off the books or something.

We sell a handle bar switch that has three settings, stock, mild and wild for $79.99

 

[XLEnduroMan]

New bikes/wheels need spokes tightened up two or three times in the beginning. Tighten the spokes up real good guys.