• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Look at This!

I think that the circlip-only retention of the sprocket may contribute to the spline wear issue but a qualified mechanical engineer would be in a better position to judge. I thought about having the end of the output shaft threaded and then machining a retaining washer, but if the transmission isn't designed to take the side thrust of a retaining bolt, you could trash the entire transmission. I'm going to use Locktite.


Which Loctite product you are planning on using?
This is an interesting idea and might work very well. The odds of having to remove a front sprocket in the field are also very slim (can't really think why you would ever need to) but if you do it could be a major pain without heat and some good persuasion tools...

If you do this though I would say be very careful to ensure that none of the Loctite product gets between the countershaft and that metal spacer that sits on the outside of the engine case before the sprocket or you'll create other big(ger) problems.
 
As to the Locktite, I can't remember the exact product but an internet search will turn it up. I'll have to do it again. It's a product made specifically for this application, usually on much heavier equipment. Have to remove the sprocket with a puller but doesn't appear to be an issue. I think I will buy several front sprockets to be sure that the next one was machined the same. Yes, you need to make sure that you don't put too much on when installing the sprocket. This is not a problem unique to Husky or the 630. This trail has been ridden before!
 
Cheers Kenneth, I'll look into that as an option for myself as well since I've got pullers and so forth as needed. Once it's all setup it would be easier to maintain than a thin film corrosion inhibitor or oil which seems like the only other good option.

Edit: Ah righto, I have Loctite 263 lying around already. I think there might even be more specific products than that. If I find any I'll post it here.
 
I think that the circlip-only retention of the sprocket may contribute to the spline wear issue but a qualified mechanical engineer would be in a better position to judge. I thought about having the end of the output shaft threaded and then machining a retaining washer, but if the transmission isn't designed to take the side thrust of a retaining bolt, you could trash the entire transmission. I'm going to use Locktite.


I think you are right and don't forget that the shaft/sprocket could be shimmed so there would be no axial load on the output shaft if the primary sprocket could be secured like other long mileage chain drive bikes have been.
The cir-clip was for quick change at the race track and worked very well for our race bike Huskys.:)
 
So from the above posts and TT drz 400 info it seems it could be wise to do the following to minimise wear .
Remove sprocket.
Clean spline & sprocket ( brake cleaner or sim )
4 drop of 263 loctite on spline and reinstall sprocket .(been careful not to put too much on and keep only to spline / sprocket mating surfaces ) .
Allow to cure for 24hrs.

So whats the deal with greasing ? It seems thoughts are it is best to avoid using grease as it will only atttract dirt which could accelerate wear . ?
 
Yeah the greasing should be fine. Fitted a new sprocket on a mates 630 on the weekend and the gap is so tiny I doubt grit could get in between the splines and the sprocket...the countershaft seal inboard of the sprocket might get worn a bit faster perhaps but even that I doubt. I would say either grease or loctite has to be better than nothing (prevent rusting and reduce friction) and other peoples extensive testing seems to say the loctite option is worth trying and probably the preferred path.
 
Forgot to post a pic of the wheels I had Woody's build for me. Don't have a pic of them on the bike handy, but here they are right after spooning on new rubber. 21 x 1.85 front, 18 x 2.50 rear with a cush hub. Superlaced.
New%20Wheels%20from%20Woodys_zpsk8cxgtmc.jpg

IMG_0595_zpsw7grnilg.jpg

IMG_0596_zpsjuxvsta0.jpg
 
Ken, I would love to see pics of the wheels on the bike as well as riding impressions. Actually, I'd like to see the others post up pictures of the wheels on their bikes too.......wheel porn!
 
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