• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Loctite idle scew?

Darkside

Darkside

Husqvarna
AA Class
Since I have not resolved my starter issue on my 2010 TXC250, I prefer to run my idle a little higher, around 1900-2000 rpm for when I dump it, it will keep running. But the idle screw keeps backing out to about 1600 rpm even with the spring tensioner. Can I back out the idle screw completely on the throttle body, apply some loctite and reinstall it? I'm not sure if the screw is attached to anything inside or is it like a slide stop on a carbed bike. Any ideas are appreciated.
 
I am suprised it's backing out- mine doesn't do that but I can see how it could be possible.

I don't think it is posible to use locktite- but would strongly suggest not attempting to do that even if it were.

You might be able to slowly/ softly drill a hole or 2 (one on opposing side of first) in the knob to then use that hole to safty wire it in its place like you would any bolt you wanted or needed safety wired. This way it should not turn until you cut the wire. I'd give that a shot if it were truely backing out- and often enough to be of annoyance. Otherwise I'd just adjust as needed- but if its doing it in the middle of a ride- I'd also seek a solution.

my 2cents:excuseme:

by the way- I preferr to run my 09te450 at 1950-2050 rpms,,, fwiw
 
Some of the thread locking tape might work good for this ... costs little, easy to use and requires little talent also ...
 
ray_ray;131594 said:
Some of the thread locking tape might work good for this ... costs little, easy to use and requires little talent also ...
Click to expand...

The air byapass knob on a the throttle boddy is not like a fuel(4s) or air(2s) screw on a carb from a structural stand point. It bottom's out when you screw it in and out. So you'd have to disassemble the throttle body to attempt anything... Which requires more talent than one would hope to need for such a simple problem. If it were like a fuel screw on a carb- I would not recomend locktite or teflon tape- I would just used a fuel screw spring with more presure- or add preload by pulling the old spring and spreading it by 1/16 of an inch or so. So with all that said- if you can disassembe the throttle body and get that spring and bypass knob off add preload to the spring or get a diferent spring.

I'd just wire it.
 
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