• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

250-500cc Linkage Bearings

I just removed the bearings from a TE630 husky, both the swingarm and the linkage bearings. I don't have a press, so most of it was done with the slide hammer. It does work, but you really need to clamp the part you're pulling the bearing from, I ended up using a G clamp to clapm the part to the towbar tongue on the 4x4, and then using the slide hammer to pull the bearings out.
 
I just did the linkage bearings in my '08 CR 125 and my '07 TE 250. I used the All Balls kits, which were comprehensive with one exception--the TE kit didn't include 4 bushings that the CR kit did. I'm not sure why, but they are sending me the correct bushings now.

I will say that removing the bearings from that triangular link (whatever its actual name is) was a bear. With my CR, I was able to use a drift and hammer to pound out the first, then my press to push out the second. But with the TE, the first bearing just disintegrated under the drift. I had to use a die grinder to cut the race of the bearing to get it out. It was a pain. But now it's done, and everything is all nice and greasy and smooth.

Make sure to check your swing arm bearings while you're in a bearing changing mood. Mine were shot. The swing arm bearings are a snap to replace compared with that triangular link.

Hi, I noticed your post mentioning that you replaced the bearings in the suspension linkage on the same bike as my son's, ('08 CR 125). It's designed different then my KX450f; does the swing arm have to come off to gain access to the triangular piece? Everything seems so tight that I cannot get a socket on it unless I remove the swingarm, or am I missing something here? Thanks.
 
I'm trying to remember--I think that once the shock is out, then you can get the access needed to get the rest of the linkage off. Frankly, however, it's just easier to pull the swingarm off. Those bearings need inspecting, and it's super easy once the wheel and shock are off.
 
I'm trying to remember--I think that once the shock is out, then you can get the access needed to get the rest of the linkage off. Frankly, however, it's just easier to pull the swingarm off. Those bearings need inspecting, and it's super easy once the wheel and shock are off.

The SA does not have any shoulders where the bearing sit inside the SA, meaning the bearings (both of them, at the same time) can be driven out without the need of a special tool ...you can even use slightly longer or shorter bearing lengths there also (at least I do from time to time)

I was gonna go inside that knuckle piece and have someone drill out the shoulders that the bearings fit against so that it would be possible to drive the bearings through and out the other side but I'll make a quick look around and attempt to find that bearing remover tool...

And for whatever reason, that yoke piece that comes from the frame and hooks into the linkage, always has dry bearings on the frame side it seems ... grease inserts are needed all around here ...
 
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