• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

All 2st Linkage bearings

M

mantrap

Husqvarna
AA Class
I am having trouble removing the roller bearings on the linkage of my Wr300 does anyone have some tips? I tried pressing them out one side but it looks like there is a shoulder between the bearings. I tried a drift but it is just destroying the bearing.
 
How old is your bike? have they ever been out before?

You might need a hydraulic press if they are rusted.
 
The bike is an 2009. The bearings weren't to bad but I got the all balls kit so I thought I would replace all the bearings.
 
Yep, they gotta be driven out opposite the way they went in ... It is very easy if you have the right side of punch to fit over the shoulder in the middle of the linkage arm and still touch the sides of the bearing housing.... A socket might work here ... not sure of the size and not trying to get you to abuse UR tools but this is the general way of driving a bearing out ... Use wd40 also around the old bearing ...

Don't worry about the old bearing ... U almost concede it is toast when you decide to remove it ...
 
Don't worry about the old bearing ... U almost concede it is toast when you decide to remove it ...[/QUOTE]

+1

PB Blaster penetrating oil works better than anything I have ever found for freeing up rusted or stuck parts
 
Propane torch and a blind bearing puller. You can get a full kit of blind bearing pullers for about $60 (..here in the GWN. Down in the US they are propably cheaper).
 
i use a dye grinder and just ground a line across the bearing cage and it comes out with one wack of the hammer/drift combo. i couldn't get mine to even budge with a press. all-thread and sockets works well for installing the new bearings
 
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