• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

125-200cc Linkage bearings - seals

rockdancer

rockdancer

Husqvarna
Pro Class
Linkage and swing arm bearings
Is it a necessity to change the seals and shafts etc when you change bearings ?
I am not sure whether to buy the bearings or the whole kit - eg Moose or Motorsportz
Any experience with these kits ? and are the bearings as good as original German bearings?

I guess its the best thing to do but will take longer to get and more expensive.

Anyone who hasnt checked their and greased their bearings for a year or so should do so -mine were all siezed:o
 
If your bearings are gone, I'd definitely replace the seals too. Just use your best judgement on the shafts. If they're worn or rusted replace them too.
 
The original german bearings are better, but the kit price can be very attractive and has its merits. The tolerances of the far-east bearings are usually decent but the metallurgy isn't up to Japanese or german standards. You must replace the shafts that run on the bearings, it actually acts as the inner bearing race on a needle bearing setup. If the bearings are seized/rusty, the shafts are always corroded/brinelled/false brinelled anyway so do the whole deal and use a good waterproof grease like BelRay, all greases AREN'T waterproof. and of course seals also.
 
Thanks guys :cheers: - I guess I better get the kits
I suppose I better check the steering head as well -
(That Belray grease is hard to find )
 
Test your grease with a dab in your palm and add water and stir. Non-waterproof grease will become an emulsified mess. Waterproof grease will remain separate from the water. But you'll still have a mess so have a few paper towels nearby before trying this!! I stopped using Silkolene grease (I love their oils) by doing this test.
 
Mobil XHP 222 ought to be a very good grease for that type of application. I use Mobil EP 2, which is also a good product, although not quite as nice as the XHP. We use EP2 as the standard lubricant for high-precision linear bearings in machine tool applications, so it's good quality stuff. I have not done Marc's water-resistance test, though. Mobil does claim that both are water resistant, but I don't know specifically what that implies.

Both of these can be purchased from McMaster for only about 5 bucks a tube. In my opinion these are probably as good or better than the moto/auto specialty stuff, and cheaper too.
 
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