• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

125-200cc lights

S

skid

Husqvarna
A Class
I've got to set up my 08 cr 144 husky mx'er with lights so I can plate it and run enduros and turkey runs with it ...
it will just need a headlight and tail light with a functioning brake light
going for a no battery set up
This obviously means rewinding the stator ...
where do you go from there??
I plan to use a stock husky set up with led headlight that will work on a 35w stator.
somebody makes those, no??
I'm guessing an led tail light but have read you can't brake light them
technically it is suppose to light the license plate too, but I don't plan to sweat that.

how difficult is it to wire up something like this?? and what about rectifiers etc etc

word up people****************************************

also somewhat concerned about my gas tank going the distance at some of these events ....
 
If you have a single element bulb you can run a resistor in the hot line to the bulb with a bypass on each side of the resistor down to a brake light switch. When you are running normally the bulb is slightly dimmed by the resistor. When you apply the brake light switch you bypass the risistor and run full current to the bulb thus brightening it up noticably . Old ISDT trick.
 
Thanks Vin ...
guy out a t ricky stator said he could get 45 watts with arewind so I'll start there. I guess I'll go with a led front and back. I thought I saw a pick of a 4" led bar inside a stock husky light frame ... anyone??? anyone have any some suggestions on headlight and tail light companies/styles
 
was thinking about this
http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p...irt+Bike+Parts&webCatId=19&prodFamilyId=25859

and this

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p...ype&prodFamilyId=26752&stockId=220131&ref=gmc

Head light only apparently draws 3w!!!

That would be $100 for the rewind, $110 for the headlight, $30 for the tail light, Another $20 or so for a regulater or resistor or some dohicky to keep from frying the led's. $10 for a rear brake switch. Thats about $270 figure $300 for the bits ..... not so bad .... probably another $200 for a mechanic to fix it after I cross wire something and fry every thing!!!
 
Vinduro said:
If you have a single element bulb you can run a resistor in the hot line to the bulb with a bypass on each side of the resistor down to a brake light switch. When you are running normally the bulb is slightly dimmed by the resistor. When you apply the brake light switch you bypass the risistor and run full current to the bulb thus brightening it up noticably . Old ISDT trick.
Click to expand...

That is exactly what I use to do on my dirt bikes......both that brake light trick, and a squeeze bulb bicycle horn.
Back in the 80's had a '84 Honda XR350, that I did those two items, plus added mirror below handlebar and was enough able to meet Idaho minimum requirements for a street plate.

Just last week I swapped out an Acerbis 6 LED tail/brake light for the Tusk 19 LED tail/brake light........wanted something brighter for my rare street riding in town.
The Tusk light is a nice unit and much brighter than the Acerbis, but I think if I only needed a light for racing I might have stayed with the Acerbis. I never had a problem with it the 3+yrs I had it on, and it's lighter, tucks in tighter and less suspecable to rock/crash damage......The Tusk light might be just good, but with only 30 minutes with my, I can't give a fair accessment yet.

Attached a couple comparison picsTL - Acerbis.jpg Tusk 1.jpg
 
bonus points for the husky rear fender pics rlw!!
how did you attach it? I don'e any bolts coming through the rear fender.

bicycle horn works fine here also
 
skid said:
........how did you attach it? I don'e any bolts coming through the rear fender......
Click to expand...

Just simple small round head bolts just long enough to get a locker washer/nut underneath (then silicone on exposed threads).
That Acerbis one had two at back of fender and one at other end. The Tusk unit I drilled to use same three, but also put a couple extra as wide as I could where the new light touched at other end, coming thru a few inches back from the seat
light bolts.jpg
 
ok so my stator is on its way to cali. I have the same tusk tail light posted in rlw's pic above. Here is the question .... the bottom of the husky rear fender has these ribs that run the length of the fender in the same spot you would put the tail light assembly. I'm sure these ribs are there to provide strength to the fender. Unfortunately they hold the tail light unit off the bottom of fender about say a 1/4". This looks like a great place for mud and dirt to collect. I could grind the ribs off so the unit mounts flush. Leave them in place and try and blast the gap with water to keep it clean, or try and fill the gaps with silicone caulking. right now I'm thinking that it doesn't matter what you do mud will get into the gap between the fender. blasting it with water seems like a great way to force dirt and water into the light bulb area and cause lots of corrosion to the wires etc. I'm thinking to grind the ribs and keep everything nice and flush. What do you guys think? rlw did you have the same issue??
 
Yep.........same issue. I think grinding those ribs would weaken the fender, and still could have some gap along the length. I just put some good heavy duty weatherstripping around outer edges of light before I bolted it on. Probably still get a little bit of mud/dust in the gaps, but not alot.
I also put clear silicone around holes where wires come out of light and go back thru light bracket. (& smeared some around bolt treads/nuts to keep gunk off them.

Just an FYI for any that may be reading this and wondering, even sitting on the ribs, the light does not stick down into the open wheel well area and maintains full rear wheel clearance.........of course, couple weekend ago, I had to test that on a few small 4th gear jumps during the first ride with the light on.
smile.gif

According to the guys riding with me that day, this new Tusk light works well and is plenty bright
 
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