BadMotoWeazal
Husqvarna
Pro Class
Is the best thing since the auto-clutch. Put one on my KTM Friday night, played with it in the back yard on Saturday. Rode Sunday in the woods with my boy & it works great. Discuss.....
As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.
When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.
Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.
Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.
Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.
Thanks for your patience and support!
Can't and won't live without itIts cheating
When I get a Rekluse for my bike (just gathering the $) I fully intend on converting the clutch into a LHRB. At this point my plan is to get a cable made up that will run from the clutch master cylinder on the handlebars to the rear brake master cylinder, then getting one of those banjo bolts with 2 sets of holes in it (see below) so I can retain the foot brake as well. Has anyone else done this before?
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To me, having the LHRB will take me back to my BMX/MTB days, so I don't think it'll take long to get used to it. Reckon it'll rock!![]()
Wont you lose engine braking Seahorse. If so, I could not live with it and that is why I do not ride smokers, as light and flickable as they are. Coming down a clay based rough steep incline I am always greatful for the engine braking aspect of a 4 stroke.
Yes - you are right, I meant hoseWhen you say "a cable between the master cylinders, I guess you mean hose?
Yeah, I am aware of this. There are 2 options to deal with this. The first is to get the master cylinder rebuild kit that can handle the brake fluid, or sure DOT5.1 synthetic brake oil.I have heard of guys using their clutch master cylinders for brakes. They may work for awhile, but the rubber is different and I'm told in time brake fluid will break down the rubber parts intended for mineral oil.
Interesting. So my cheat idea won't workI don't think pressurizing the outlet of the rear cylinder will pressurize the caliper, because the fluid will end up going through the bleed back ports and to the reservoir. The only way I know of to do it is to plumb into the reservoir or reservoir port, depending on your cylinder, then the fluid will go through the bleed back ports in the cylinder and piston and to the caliper. Plumbed this way the reservoir on the handle bar will also be the foot pedal reservoir. This is how the Rekluse kits work. Rekluse makes the kits for the later foot master cylinders that don't use a remote reservoir.
Its cheating
I'm VERY seriously considering going the LHRB route when I have EFM make me a clutch later this year. Will be weird not having a brake pedal, I think, but am sure it is a quick adaptation.
I am particularly interested in fitting a LHRB to my '05 TE250 and also keep the foot brake functional.
If anyone has done this successfully I would appreciate your input.
I already have a spare clutch perch and was considering machining it to fit a return line in place of the original foot brake reservoir, but not sure if it will be big enough to hold sufficient volume of oil. Then fitting a hydraulic "Check" valve in the system, so that the higher of the two signals (Hand/Foot) would actuate the brake caliper.
For this to function correctly both actuators would need to share a common reservoir.....?
Yeah, I am aware of this. There are 2 options to deal with this. The first is to get the master cylinder rebuild kit that can handle the brake fluid, or sure DOT5.1 synthetic brake oil.
As a stunter I use a rear hand brake all the time for wheelies while standing on the seat. The only tru way to have a powerful rear hand brake it to ad a second caliper to the rear bracket so you have two rear calipers. When running the banjo bolt or "splitter" style when you use the hand brake it pushes up the foot pedal. so you cant use both at the same time to transition form one to the other. I add a kawi 636 rear caliper to mine with a 13 mm magura master. tons of power and great feel. there are pics on my blog.freestylesupermoto.com mightbe a few pages in. it took a long time of trial and error on a lot of bikes to find the perfect combination but now I got it dialed in.
Your demands far exceed mine.I like the 9.0 mm magura as rear brake operation is one finger and lock up is easily achieved with minimal effort when you want it. I have heard some worries about adding to arm pump but I still suffer arm pump in my right arm far more and worse than my left.
I don't get arm pump as much as I get tendonitis in my left elbow... But me & the Doc are working on that.... LHRB is the best thing since Tubliss, Rekluse & trials tiresYour demands far exceed mine.I like the 9.0 mm magura as rear brake operation is one finger and lock up is easily achieved with minimal effort when you want it. I have heard some worries about adding to arm pump but I still suffer arm pump in my right arm far more and worse than my left.