• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Lectron on a TE/SM 610 4 Stroke

The adjustment on the side is a air bleed. Makes it leaner as you turn it out. May or may not need need ot turn out at all. My YZ450 runs good with it closed. Rode that bike again today. WOW.
 
That screw with the tube acts like an air mixture screw. Use it to fine tune/smooth your idle. The other screw moves the slide up or down for idle rpm adjustment.

Rather than risk disaster with a stuck throttle, I would wait for correct throttle cable with the 90 degree bend.
 
Ruffus said:
Yup I'm sure, the rod wouldn't go in the hole at all. I can easily drill out the hole without touching the flat spot. Working in a machine shop has it's advantages. :cheers:
I thought the PJ was on top of the throttle bore, but wanted to be sure. Any idea what the lower left hand side screw with the tube is for?
Definitely going to be careful about the throttle. I looked at Lectrons web site for tuning info & of course every thread here that I could find, but it's either for 2 strokes, or multi cylinder 4's, haven't found anything relating to thumpers. Hoping more 4 stroke users chime in with their experiences. For now it starts great, & idles nicely. I'll be taking it for a short commute tomorrow & the rest of the week.
Click to expand...

just making sure ruffus..bad part about the internet is people not knowing other peoples skills or stuff like that. i think you are on the right path tho. sounds like the bike is runnng good at least!
 
Started up this morning in 50 degree weather, no choke. Barely touched the button, amazing how quickly it fires up cold, it actually take a second or two longer to start up after it's warmed up. I'm amazed how smooth it is, bike even sounds quieter while cruising.
On my way home accelerating from 30 mph to 55 mph, it seems like lazy acceleration. Throttle cable appears to working fine, but I can see that if I did a deep water crossing, the cable end boot isn't going to stop water from getting in because of the bend.. I'll keep commuting back & forth to work on it this week & lean out the rod another 1\4 turn on Saturday. I want to look at the plug before I get too far into making changes. Then I 'll need help on how to tune for mid & topend.
 
dukepilot said:
That screw with the tube acts like an air mixture screw. Use it to fine tune/smooth your idle. The other screw moves the slide up or down for idle rpm adjustment.

Rather than risk disaster with a stuck throttle, I would wait for correct throttle cable with the 90 degree bend.
Click to expand...

Thank you for the concern, I'm being very careful & basically expecting a cable bind so I'm always ready to grab the clutch lever & hit the kill switch if needed. Also carrying the tools I need to tilt it a bit to clear the frame if I have to get me home, told a few pickup driving coworkers that I might just have to call them for help.
I'm surprised how little throttle it needs to maintain it's speed around town. Can definitely see where increased MPG's would come from.
 
Ruffus said:
Okay, sorry for the delay on updates, but time to work on the bike isn't going as planned. Today I adjusted the rod a 1\4 turn leaner & mounted the carb vertically (no tilt).
First question: At what temperature should I need the choke? It's about 70 today with 70% humidity.
The adjustment tool doesn't fit the rod, holes to small. Not a big issue, I can drill out the hole to proper size easy enough, but just a heads up. Is there a difference in metering rod diameter?

Second question: My carb looks much different from the 2 smokes version. 2 adjustment screws on the left, top one seems to be idle, if I got instructions with the carb, I lost them. Bottom one has a tube?
Another adjustment screw on top of the throttle bore. What does each one do? Which ones the PJ? Is the adjustment routine the same as it is on a 2 stroke?

I watched the U-tube videos for 4 stroke & 2 stroke adjustments & in one where he's working on a 4 cylinder Kawi, he mentions that the slide is up too high compared to the other 3. I can't tell how he adjusted it, did he turn the choke knob? Still trying to figure out how I could see if mines too high or just right.

Is there a video out there on adjusting a Lectron on a thumper? Haven't been able to find it if there is.
Just trying to learn as much as I can about this carb so if an issue arises, I can fix it in the field.

Not sure if we need a separate Lectron tuning thread for 4 strokes or not, but would be nice to find any issues & answers in one thread. Maybe this thread, don't know.
Click to expand...

Ruffus,

I worked with Kevin Gilham (Kelly too) testing four stroke carbs for a 610. He sent 4 of them and kept making changes to needles and slides as reported back. Then he sent the fifth one June of this year.
The JB jetting for the 450, 510 and 610 is very close, so I tried it on my 450 first and the latest Lectron was very close to perfect (nice job Kevin!:) ) as shipped and the bike never ran better. Kevin did a lot of work on these 4 stroke carbs and he is a very busy guy so it took awhile.
I hated to, but I took the Lecton off the 450 and put it on the 07 610. On the 610 the idle didn't return quickly on the bench so I ended up turning the needle half a turn clockwise (rich) and after playing with the low speed (out = lean) air bleed (the one on the side) the idle returned and was very stable. The adjustable power jet (the one on top) was also very close and can't remember how I tweaked it (out = richer) but it wasn't much.

It sounds to me like you are still rich on the needle. Even at 90 degrees I use the choke when starting the engine after it has cooled overnight. The four stroke Lectron carbs are more sensitive to needle adjustments than two stroke carbs but I suspect you should turn leaner a 1/4 at a time and ride it. It may take a half turn. A quick non returning idle is a dead give away when you are lean.

I just came back from a 500+- mile dualsport ride with the 610 that included highway, gravel road, green and some blue quad trails. The bike ran great from 200' to 6200". My gas mileage was in the upper thirties MPG in the sloped rocky/silty stuff to as much as 55MPG
on the road.
I'm a happy camper:)
 
What would one of these set a fella back? I need to go through my carb, maybe rebuild, would be a great time for that clear float look. Always like new carbs.
 
I've got one for sale that has ~20miles on it. Apparently my thread has to be approved is why the link is dead.

I'll do the whole package for 450shipped.
 
Today was my first chance to do a fairly accurate mileage test. First I leaned out the rod another 1\4 turn, idle didn't change, topped up the tank & went on a nice fairly consistent highway ride, just under 25 miles each way at an average speed of 58 mph. Total mileage was 49.7, total liters used was 3.856. Right about 49 mpg's. I;m pretty impressed with that, especially considering the best I got before was 45 mpg's with the Kenda 761, I get 49 mpg's with the big Teraflex. Gotta be more rolling resistance, but being a taller tire that may have compensated. Bonus is it runs smoother, vibes through the handle bars & pegs are much lower than before.
Now the bad news.
After I adjusted the rod, I was expecting a higher idle, there was no change. At about the 13 mile mark, coming to a stop sign, it didn't want to idle, had to do the Harley blip to keep it going, when I got to my destination, I increased the idle to 1800, 25 miles later, I get home & again, it didn't want to idle, increased the idle speed again up to 1800. Anyone have an idea why that's happening?
 
I plan to rebuild my te450 08 to 530 or 510 kit. I want to order the proper lektron and I got cost for this already. 425 British pounds instead of 285 for the base carb!
Seller says that there must be added some tips..
"..its the mods needed to suit your application, to get the ultimate performance from the new combination. older bikes and 2 strokes dont need the idle circuit. we also machine the spigot and bell mouth to fit your husky inlet and airbox. things like older rm250's etc running no airbox dont need these mods.so its £285. you get what you pay for. theres no more profit in the carb for your application. just gotta be right! "

Is it profitable if I agree? where can I get a customized lektron cheaper if I can independently set up a input and a output flanges? Sorry for bad language!
 
mr.Skin said:
I plan to rebuild my te450 08 to 530 or 510 kit. I want to order the proper lektron and I got cost for this already. 425 British pounds instead of 285 for the base carb!
Seller says that there must be added some tips..
"..its the mods needed to suit your application, to get the ultimate performance from the new combination. older bikes and 2 strokes dont need the idle circuit. we also machine the spigot and bell mouth to fit your husky inlet and airbox. things like older rm250's etc running no airbox dont need these mods.so its £285. you get what you pay for. theres no more profit in the carb for your application. just gotta be right! "

Is it profitable if I agree? where can I get a customized lektron cheaper if I can independently set up a input and a output flanges? Sorry for bad language!
Click to expand...


Its not that easy. There's a whole other circuit added, aluminum ends added and a bunch of machining to make them correct. Sounds like you are dealing with Lectron direct and they are telling you the truth. It is a lot more work and they make the same profit as the standard carb. No gouging is going on here. The carb gets a lot of massaging it would be super hard to duplicate for any price.

Note added circuit and flanges on both ends...

20130619_092111-XL.jpg
 
looks like you're both right and I will be forced to agree. apparently there is still much work to implant this carb. Seems the unit ECU must be replaced.. axis of carb and intake tract also not quite match ..
Will work correctly ignition if you make the electrical resistance instead of the injection unit?
 
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