125-200cc Lectron Issue-where to start?

[surfer1100]

Just recieved two Lectrons today. Thanks K


Install was relatively painless on both bikes(Gasgas 125 and TM Racing 125).


Disclaimer: Both bikes were running very strong with their stock carbs and have about 25 hours on new top ends.

Gasgas-- fired right up and was blubbering, needed two adjustments leaner on the metering rod and should be a good baseline to start from.

TM-- won't start...has good compression, put in new plug and has spark, fuel getting to float bowl.

It was running extremely strong as mentioned before save for less than ideal crispness on the bottom, but this bike just doesn't have much bottom to begin with, it's an MX screamer with JD Ignition.

So basically wondering where to start with this? Is the baseline setting so rich it won't start??

Anyone else experience anything like this??

Let me know your thoughts, have just gone through both bikes and the Lectrons were to be the icing on the cake

 

[454x]

First take the slide out and make sure the flat side of the M.R. is facing the engine. Sounds like its 180 out to me.

 

[huskybear]

When i was experimenting with my lectron on my wr,I lowered the rod too far and it would not start. If your plug is dry and there is fuel in the float bowl,you may have to raise the rod, make sure the insert the rod threads into is seated in the slide properly and like 454x said make sure the flat side of the rod is facing the motor after adjustment.

 

[surfer1100]

The rod had the flatside facing the engine. Leaned it out one full turn and it started after a dozen kicks. Need a different throttle cable though, stock cables adjustment is maxed out and is still at permanent 1/8th throttle.

Thanks for the quick responses. Should be able to dial it in once I have a longer cable.

 

[huskybear]

The rod had the flatside facing the engine. Leaned it out one full turn and it started after a dozen kicks. Need a different throttle cable though, stock cables adjustment is maxed out and is still at permanent 1/8th throttle.

Thanks for the quick responses. Should be able to dial it in once I have a longer cable.

My cable was a little short as well. I rotated my throttle assembly back and it gave me enough slack.Keep us posted!

 

[Treesmacker]

I think you should pull that thing out & replace it with the stock carb.

P.S.
Please box up the Lectron and ship it to me! LOL

 

[erigre]

I've got mine on my ktm 200 at the moment. This motor (at least mine) is very sensitive to the powerjet adjustment and I run it 1/4-1/2 out. More and it gets blubbery, even if the needle is lean. Surprised me as my cr150 likes quite a bit more. YMMV, but something to think about.

 

[surfer1100]

OK, so a few more questions/guidance.

Picked up a cable 1/2" longer and at least got some play in the throttle, not ideal but some.

Started it on the choke, removed choke still revs like it is at 1/8 to 1/4 throttle despite no tension on the cable.

Turn idle screw one full turn and it drops to a respectable level but then dies almost immediately. If you slowly turn back up to compensate it still dies.

Bike won't start without the choke.

I really don't like the sounds this bike is making with this carb, the way it revs high and just dies, made me think it might have seized.

Any thoughts?

 

[huskybear]

I think you are still too lean on the rod adjustment,my wr did the same thing when I had the rod too lean. I would raise the rod a half turn and try it again.By raising the rod you are richening the idle/low speed mixture and this will allow you to turn in the idle screw to raise the slide,allowing more air to enter the motor and allow a proper mixture. I found that if the rod is set too low it causes a very lean mixture at idle and high idle,turning out the idle screw lowers the slide too far and does not allow enough air into the motor for it to run properly.I found out these things by experimenting with different settings in order to understand how these carbs work.Hope this helps,keep us posted!

 

[454x]

Like Husky Bear says go richer. If it will only run on the choke the rod is to lean.

 

[Motosportz]

Sorry I am late to the party here. Also sorry you are having issues. Good info here. You should not be having these issues. These are EZ to tune carbs and should be real close stock. Have you tried swapping the one Lectron for the other Lectron and see if your TM will start? This would eliminate the carb. If the carb is anywhere close it should start. I'm not sure of your mechanical abilities and much of this you might already know and have done, just laying it out for info.

1. Make absolutely sure the slide is closing all the way. You should here a chunk when the throttle returns from snapping it open. Even better if you can see pull the subframe and look inside the carb while installed and make sure there is only about a 1/16th inch gap you can see through.
2. Again, make sure the flat side of the rod is facing the carb
3. Do you have tools to measure the rod length? From the part is strews into to the tip? Accurately? Should be int he 94-95mm range from my findings.
4. Check that the rod is not hung up slightly in the quarter turn adjuster as one person reported this after adjusting.

I have been testing a pile of rods and settings. Completely removing and installing different rods. Never had an issue getting them to fire right up. There is only a few things that could keep it from running, these are simple carbs.

Let us know how you get on with it. Also feel free to Call Kevin for first hand info. He is busy and sometimes a little hard to reach but has great info and 25 years of knowledge about these carbs.

As for overall tuning get the rod so the bike starts and idles nice in the middle of the idle setting range. Then don't touch the rod again. Ride the bike and adjust the powerjet to your liking. Powerjet affects the mid roll on and top end over half throttle situations.

Hope this helps.
Kelly

 

[Motosportz]

OK, so a few more questions/guidance.

Picked up a cable 1/2" longer and at least got some play in the throttle, not ideal but some.

Started it on the choke, removed choke still revs like it is at 1/8 to 1/4 throttle despite no tension on the cable.

Turn idle screw one full turn and it drops to a respectable level but then dies almost immediately. If you slowly turn back up to compensate it still dies.

Bike won't start without the choke.

I really don't like the sounds this bike is making with this carb, the way it revs high and just dies, made me think it might have seized.

Any thoughts?

Not seized. Check for air leaks. Check that the slide is all the way down and not hung up. Check that the throttle cable is not hanging up on the bike somewhere.

Did you adjust the rod from the stock setting? Sounds like you have it way to rich, this makes you open up the idle to get it to run. I have installed and tested many of these on several different bikes now and no issues getting them setup. Read my post above, only a few things to look for. Lean your rod a 1/2 turn, turn your idle down some and make sure the slide is dropping all the way down and there is just a sliver of an opening looking through the carb with the slide closed. About a 1/16th inch. If the slide is for sure closing all the way (very slight opening at bottom) the rod is adjusted about 94.5mm length (where it screws in and to the tip), and the flat side is facing the engine then you are 95% to where it should be perfect.

 

[Motosportz]

Again makes sure all these things above are in order and your bike should start right up. If not call Kevin at Lectron at (254)857-3828

Here is what the carb should look like slide wise installed and ready to run.

 

[johnnyboy]

Sounds like the same problem I had where the flat side of the metering rod was facing the wrong way, this gave me fits till I sat and looked at it over a coffee as nothing would make it run right.
Also on my 36mm Lectron no matter how much I tried to start it I could not even get it to fire - this was because it was set a rich as the rod would go so from my experiances so far they have to be set roughly in the ball park to be able to hear if they are rich or lean, hang on in there as it will be well worth it in the end

 

[surfer1100]

Was out on it for a bit today, not perfect yet, but running pretty good. I definitely notice it runs stronger and lugs better, but doesn't feel as crisp as I think it should. Originally did one full turn leaner and have been coming back in 1/4 turn increments. Constantly feels like it is 1/4 turn from being perfect, but never quite there. What is the proper range for the idle screw? 1-2.5 turns?

 

[johnnyboy]

Do you mean the power jet screw ? if so only testing on your part will give you the answer, if I were you I would make BIG changes to get the feel of whats happening you need to feel the changes and this will speed up the hunt for the final settings
As for the crispness - my testing sort of went the same way YOU may think its not as crisp in areas but the Lectron has a uncanny ability of removing all the steps in the power curve! it sort of smooths the whole rev range out.
Spent all day last Sunday finally getting to ride on some dry ground and not knee deep mud testing pipes ect and did not once have to change any settings on the lectron and its pretty hard work with the Lecron as a lot of pipes all seemed to work nearly identicly although they should be worlds apart ! again I put this down to the Lectron old age and being so unfit it hurts

 

[Motosportz]

Do you mean the power jet screw ?

I think he means the rod setting.

As for the crispness - my testing sort of went the same way YOU may think its not as crisp in areas but the Lectron has a uncanny ability of removing all the steps in the power curve! it sort of smooths the whole rev range out. Spent all day last Sunday finally getting to ride on some dry ground and not knee deep mud testing pipes ect and did not once have to change any settings on the lectron and its pretty hard work with the Lecron as a lot of pipes all seemed to work nearly identicly although they should be worlds apart !

I rode last weekend with buddy blake. He has a 09 WR125 with 165 kit and KTM200 PC pipe. I rode my 04 CR125 with 165 kit and HUGE Dome KTM 200 pipe. These pipes are quite different looking at them, the Doma looks like for a CR500. Both running Lectrons and running well. The difference in power is huge. My 165 has a lot more power on the bottom. It is obvious. Blake was like WTF you bike pulls HARd right off idle where i thought his was pretty weak off the bottom. Almost all this is the pipe. I like the FMF Fatty KTM 200 pipe and Doms because i get a bunch of bottom and mod. He likes the PC pipe as he likes soft EZer to control bottom and ripping top. Mt point is on our bikes, where we ride, the pipe makes quit a difference in where it makes power.

 

[johnnyboy]

I think he means the rod setting.



I rode last weekend with buddy blake. He has a 09 WR125 with 165 kit and KTM200 PC pipe. I rode my 04 CR125 with 165 kit and HUGE Dome KTM 200 pipe. These pipes are quite different looking at them, the Doma looks like for a CR500. Both running Lectrons and running well. The difference in power is huge. My 165 has a lot more power on the bottom. It is obvious. Blake was like WTF you bike pulls HARd right off idle where i thought his was pretty weak off the bottom. Almost all this is the pipe. I like the FMF Fatty KTM 200 pipe and Doms because i get a bunch of bottom and mod. He likes the PC pipe as he likes soft EZer to control bottom and ripping top. Mt point is on our bikes, where we ride, the pipe makes quit a difference in where it makes power.

I fully agree Kelly the bottom end type pipes compaired to the top end orientated items there is a huge difference, but some of the mid range items I found them to be much of the same but in fairness this was on a track that favored mid upwards and my favoite pipe ( a stock ktm 200 ) that I have loved in the boggy wet slime we have all year so far with its bottom to mid real hard hit for a 165 was next to tit useless on the fast stuff but great in the woods
The highest reving top end pipe I have tried so far is a 200sx dep with a hgs right up the tail pipe, but if you compair them you would think the hgs would have a bit more bottom mid but its real hard to feel. I think for all round use the fatty is about the best you can get and may buy another as mine is now pretty battered! Looks like the old fat git may have to get fitter and slimmer lol

 

[surfer1100]

Yes, I did mean the metering rod, have not messed with the PowerJet yet.

Will be tinkering again today with better weather, but likely slippery conditions.

As for the length of the rod, I measured from the top of the slide to the tip and it is about 99mm, just the rod to bottom of slide would be about half of that.

Again, where is the optimal idle screw range? More than one turn, but less than??

Can you make smaller than 1/4 adjustments? or do you need a different metering rod for that? To find the inbetween...

 

[Motosportz]

Yes, I did mean the metering rod, have not messed with the PowerJet yet.

Will be tinkering again today with better weather, but likely slippery conditions.

As for the length of the rod, I measured from the top of the slide to the tip and it is about 99mm, just the rod to bottom of slide would be about half of that.

Again, where is the optimal idle screw range? More than one turn, but less than??

Can you make smaller than 1/4 adjustments? or do you need a different metering rod for that? To find the inbetween...

you should not need more than 1/4 turn adjustments. Mine runs good 1/2 turn ether way. Will be slightly leaner and richer but running well. In my testing I am about 94.5mm measurement from the little round part the rod screws into (not the slide) to the tip of the rod. this is not a hard fast rule just where mine works. Measuring it gets it close but you really need the Lectron measuring tool to do it right. None of this should be necessary though. Get it to idle with about 1.5 turns on the idle screw. Should be EZ to find a spot where it fires and idles nice with the adjustment in about 1.5-2 turns and should be EZ to modulate with the idle adjustment. If you have to crank the idle way in to make it idle right you are too rich on the rod. Anyway get it to fire and idle nice then leave the rod alone. Then play with the powerjet. About one turn out of standard, out more is richer for the mid to top end. If it has a crackly sputter at full throttle it is lean. Most running the standard 3-1 XL rod need about 2 turns out on the PJ. Maybe more. Dont go past 3-3.5 if you find you need that much you need to move up to a 4-0 rod but you should not.