• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

125-200cc lectron good(thus far).

yeh I haven't checked PV setting will have a look-forgot about that. yeh I know it wont lug like the 300 but sometimes have no choice on the trails(300 torque territory) I ride & it lugs pretty good most the time. thanks for replies as usual, I will check out PV & adjust if necessary then go half turn leaner on rod. can you read the plug for what its running like down low? whats the min & max for adjusting PV so valve opens & closes properly? btw everyone was loving the 'factory' clear bowl yesterday on the lectron-bit of a talking point:cool:
 
shawbagga said:
yeh I haven't checked PV setting will have a look-forgot about that. yeh I know it wont lug like the 300 but sometimes have no choice on the trails(300 torque territory) I ride & it lugs pretty good most the time. thanks for replies as usual, I will check out PV & adjust if necessary then go half turn leaner on rod. can you read the plug for what its running like down low? whats the min & max for adjusting PV so valve opens & closes properly? btw everyone was loving the 'factory' clear bowl yesterday on the lectron-bit of a talking point:cool:
Click to expand...
Your gonna kick yourself on not adjusting that powervalve already!:cheers:
 
I had a slight bog low in the band that is new that I was chasing on my last ride on 10Nov. I was surprised, for the motor has always been very crisp on the bottom with the Lectron. It was pretty cold. I went a 1/4 turn richer but the bog remained. Can the pv spring move after its set or just stretch? Whats the life of the WB springs.
Anyway that was the last adjustment I made because about a mile later I spit a large rock out from the rear during a uphill turn and dropped the bike, trapping my leg between the motor and another rock. Chipped the tibia just above the ankle joint and have been on injured reserve since. Should be gtg mid Jan.
 
Great tool to have for adjusting the power valve tension on a 125/144/165/17* is the thin 13mm Park Tool open end wrench for bicycles.Fits perfectly on the stamped arm while you're tightening the fixing bolt.

Sabortooth, I bought a WR144 that had a replacement Keihin 36mm from a KTM. New carb. Ran real well, but I put a Lectron on it from another bike I have and it bogged badly. Didn't touch the carb. Pulled the pipe & the PVs moved freely. Took the slack out, adjusted it a bit more to put some tension on the spring. Freakin instant fix! The WB springs are in the govenor/opening mechanism in the case, not the PV tension spring behind the cover on the cylinder. (Only assuming you didn't know that, sorry if I'm wrong there. No clue on tension life though.)
 
flyingbob said:
Great tool to have for adjusting the power valve tension on a 125/144/165/17* is the thin 13mm Park Tool open end wrench for bicycles.Fits perfectly on the stamped arm while you're tightening the fixing bolt.

Sabortooth, I bought a WR144 that had a replacement Keihin 36mm from a KTM. New carb. Ran real well, but I put a Lectron on it from another bike I have and it bogged badly. Didn't touch the carb. Pulled the pipe & the PVs moved freely. Took the slack out, adjusted it a bit more to put some tension on the spring. Freakin instant fix! The WB springs are in the govenor/opening mechanism in the case, not the PV tension spring behind the cover on the cylinder. (Only assuming you didn't know that, sorry if I'm wrong there. No clue on tension life though.)
Click to expand...


I forget what color of Walts PV springs are installed but I doubt that they have stretched. I'll check that they have not moved. More likely the problem was old fuel or dirty air filter. There is only a slight hesitation when the throttle is rolled on.
 
I rode in 6" of snow in the woods new years day with the lectron with an air temp of 6 degrees and it ran perfect and plug still looks good!! These things are awesome! Couple guys had a hard time starting there Kawi F.I . Four strokes but mine fired right up, was running fully covered rads.
 
I cured my soft spot on the bottom by moving the power valve adjustment closer to the bottom of the slot. It was close to the top and (I assume) opening too quickly, which made for a weak bottom before the big mid range hit. Once I adjusted it down (between 1/4 and 1/3 way up) the bog is gone.

I had one of the 09 bikes with the bad powervalves, so I think the adjustment way up the slot was needed to get it to run with the bad PV's, but with the 165 and hand ground powervalves it doesn't appear necessary. Or at least not so on my bike.
 
ok im looking at my PV right now & the bolt head is near the bottom of the slot(1-2mm exposed slot above bolt head-sitting just below parallel with bolt head right next to it). PC you have yours adjusted to where mine sits now hey? Kelly you reckon go almost to the top of the slot? will try it higher I guess.:excuseme:. hey on another note after washing my bike yesterday noticed the choke wouldn't stay up like someone else mentioned no matter what I did. guess some dirt or water got in there, no biggy hardly need it anyway-starts fine with it being held up with a finger or just being pulled up for a second then letting it drop down before kicking(always warm here!). just thought id mention. cheers
 
riteo so how do I adjust it:confused:dont wanna bust nothing, got bolt loosened. Tim im looking in your direction, I know youre lurking!
 
yeh I get that part but I cant get it to go past where it already was(below middle), loosened both bolts. don't wanna force anything is all. whats the story yall?
 
should being the operative word. it moves down easy enough but wont go up to where I want it(still a visible slot above bolt head)

cancel that got it just needed a third hand & a bit more oomph! set at about 1mm from max height(1mm from top of bolt head flange to edge of PV linkage-leaves a 1.5-2mm visible slot under bolt head) sound about right? what happens if you go max height?:banana:
 
If you go max height the PV wont open completely at full throttle and top end power will suffer.

All these bikes are different and that's the only reason I mentioned moving the adjustment to the bottom to get my motor to run right. Putting the adjustment to the top worked great with the stock power valves, but it doesn't work with the 165 and hand ground PV's I've got now. My experience seems opposite of most, so I figured I'd throw it out there to add to the confusion! :cheers:
 
In my world, it's not about how high it is in the slot. Look at the lever between the spring arms, raise the lower adjusting arm and watch the upper lever initiate tension on the spring arm. Go a little further to guarantee enough tension to keep the PVs closed until the governor mechanism (controlled by Walt's spring) forces the valve to open. The double arm spring is to keep the PV from oscillating (flopping out of sync) and opening when they shouldn't.
 
flyingbob said:
In my world, it's not about how high it is in the slot. Look at the lever between the spring arms, raise the lower adjusting arm and watch the upper lever initiate tension on the spring arm. Go a little further to guarantee enough tension to keep the PVs closed until the governor mechanism (controlled by Walt's spring) forces the valve to open. The double arm spring is to keep the PV from oscillating (flopping out of sync) and opening when they shouldn't.
Click to expand...



Yes. Which on most bikes if 3/4 to all the way up in the slot. (slot visible underneath it)
 
PC. said:
I cured my soft spot on the bottom by moving the power valve adjustment closer to the bottom of the slot. It was close to the top and (I assume) opening too quickly, which made for a weak bottom before the big mid range hit. Once I adjusted it down (between 1/4 and 1/3 way up) the bog is gone.

I had one of the 09 bikes with the bad powervalves, so I think the adjustment way up the slot was needed to get it to run with the bad PV's, but with the 165 and hand ground powervalves it doesn't appear necessary. Or at least not so on my bike.
Click to expand...


Almost all the bikes I have seen need it a good 3/4 up in the slot not down to eliminate the bog. Mine is a 09 bike but 2013 144 cylinder and PVs.
 
shawbagga said:
should being the operative word. it moves down easy enough but wont go up to where I want it(still a visible slot above bolt head)

cancel that got it just needed a third hand & a bit more oomph! set at about 1mm from max height(1mm from top of bolt head flange to edge of PV linkage-leaves a 1.5-2mm visible slot under bolt head) sound about right? what happens if you go max height?:banana:
Click to expand...



So did you ride it yet?
 
Motosportz said:
Almost all the bikes I have seen need it a good 3/4 up in the slot not down to eliminate the bog. Mine is a 09 bike but 2013 144 cylinder and PVs.
Click to expand...

Would this also apply to the '06 125's?

I need to check my PV, got a slight bog off idle. Jetting seems ok otherwise. Don't want to go chasing my tail jetting wise until I get the PV near where it should be.
 
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