Leaked a bit of engine oil

[AbnMike]

So as some of you know I just got a completely rebuilt/restored 83 250 WR (thread a few threads below). Not sure when it was restored but it was probably a few years ago, and then put away. Took some carb cleaning to get it running, ran it around the block and then put it up on the stand.

I was gone a week and came back and the pan below the stand had quite a bit of oil from the cases on it. I didn't notice it until I got it off the stand so couldn't tell you if it was leaning left or right (due to that bottom bracket thing). I didn't see where it was leaking but there is a solid plug in the bottom of the case on the oil fill side (left side). Is that normal? It doesn't look removable. I was thinking that may be the culprit?

It also may have leaked out of the oil fill. I didn't check when I got it if it was tight or not. It has sat now for 2 days without leaking (I left it one day leaning right and the other leaning left). The oil level looks to be correct now (for whatever that's worth).

The case bolts all were tight, the gasket is in place and is clearly new.

Second question - in the pic I'm attaching there was a ton of black oil all over the left side rear shock (clearly 2 stroke blow by) that I didn't notice after riding. It was so much I thought I'd blown a shock (I have no idea what is in these shocks, this is my first vintage Husky). I removed the shock and cleaned it up and saw more blow by behind it --- coming from where the pipe meets that rear muffler thing with the Ohlins sticker on it. I'm guessing that I just blew a bunch out since it had been sitting so long? There doesn't seem to be any clamp (well there is not a clamp, doesn't seem that there should be) and it's just in there compression fitting?

 

[AbnMike]

Another question: the previous owner said I should do 40:1, but I read it really is 32:1. I know that's a pretty small difference, but in the future should I do 32:1?

And how long does it take one of these to warm up? I couldn't kick start it after the week (even though after I cleaned the carb the first time I started it it started right up) I'm guessing some of the old gas is still in there gumming things up a bit. It bump started down the hill, but then just was dragging, no power at all really. I rode it around the neighborhood a couple times but it still seemed really boggy esp at mid-throttle. Another carb clean in order? Or do they take awhile to really warm up before they want to run right?

 

[jo360]

Pretty comon for oil to leak from the seal behind the drive sporocket, check around that area, if its coming from between the cases then try tightening.maybe gear shift shaft but just have a good look track it down and report back.
Warm up depends on outdoor temp but 30 seconds on choke then about 5 mins before fully warm, 32 to 1 or 40 to 1 is fine with modern oils if using castor stick with 32 to 1.
Bogging if fully warmed, good spark plug, new fuel and clean air filter is either jetting, compression or ignition . try new spark plug, new fuel and clean filter and then se how she fairs.
Remember 2t oils seperate when left to sit in the tank and the petrol goes off and a while.

 

[AbnMike]

I'll keep an eye on the leak. I'm going to change the crankcase oil anyway - the thing hasn't been ridden in years. He had to pull it out from in the middle of 30 other bikes, and it wasn't leaking at all then. He had it sitting level though and I didn't.

I used to build Vespa 2 stroke motors so I do understand them. I once bored out a 200cc motor to 225cc, added reed valves to it, domed the head, expansion chamber, etc. It's just been awhile and I also know eacy manufacturer has their quirks, esp in a 30+ yo bike that was sitting.

 

[suprize]

if you leave the fuel tap on, it may fill the cases with fuel if the needle and seat is leaking... then when it starts, it will shoot black pooh out every exhaust join...port, muffler join and muffler exit. for an old bike unstarted, you should have checked and cleaned reoiled the air filter, they can fall to bits and suck into the engine.

fuel on, choke on, no throttle should start in 2 or 3 kicks. if it doesn't, it may be flooded so fuel off, full throttle and kick away furiously. it should blubber a bit after 10 or so kicks and then after a few more, start running while shooting raw fuel out the pipe everywhere. it may take a few plugs to work out the correct sequence

check the muffler for wasps, mice etc and the exhaust chamber. checked timing and reed valves. I would go 40:1 with modern oils. the gearbox will take 30 wt oil or ATF-F filled up to the join line btw the primary drive sprocket and the clutch gear as seen thru the filler cap ~1400ml

a line of silicon around the exhaust port and muffler join will seal it.

no doubt your leak is at the sprocket, they are well known to leak if the bike leans that way. there are a few posts on here about the issue.

enjoy!

 

[Eurofreak]

I would also check the petcock for debris and drop the carb float bowl to check for garbage. The float valve needle can get stuck open from garbage too .I bet it's a dirty carb the way you describe it. When mine started for the first time you should have seen the shit fly out the muffler- just as Suprize described . I have the leaky countershaft too. I'm adding an O ring and modifying the spacer to accept it.

 

[justintendo]

dont worry about the plug at the bottom, it is related to the shift drum. clean all the oil off and see where its leaking! the countershaft is common.
there should be a groove in the silencer for holding an oring...but you can also seal it up.
40:1 is a great all around ratio. i dont really idle my bikes much..but only load them as they warm up.

 

[Bigbill]

I use a silicone called Pro Seal in the past I think Big A auto parts carries it. Or any high temp auto silicone will work. I wash the area with brake cleaner, then rubbing alcohol. I put a spot light bulb in my light that has a clamp on it. I apply the silicone to where it's leaking the put the light to heat it over night.

I had a Suzuki with a torn center case gasket. It would drip. My silicone repair fixed it.

A leak around the 83/84 newer counter shafts I put silicone around the outside spacer ring. On the shaft splines. It slows down the leak.

I hate oil leaks and try to fix them.

 

[AbnMike]

Thanks guys. Little tips from the experts can save a ton of headache for sure. I had cleaned the carb and it wasn't gummy, but it did start right up after cleaning the first time I started it. After sitting a week it took bump starting to get it going. I forgot about the petcock so I'll clean it out. It only had a bit of gas in there that I drained before refilling but some was left so there could be some gunkiness still settling at the bottom.

Filter is freshly oiled. Great advice on sealing the exhaust.

 

[AbnMike]

Been leaning on the right side for a couple days, and leaked again. Can't tell for the life of me where it's coming from.

I'm going to drain the oil, add some of that UV dye stuff, and let it sit and see what happens.

 

[Skoalman]

I'm pretty sure it's the countershaft sprocket seal/bearing. Quite frankly, it's nothing really quite that unusual. Had same thing happen to at least 3 of my HVAs in the past. Some people live with it by decreasing amount of engine oil they put in or like Bigbill, silicone the splines. Doesn't work for me, because I simply don't like leaks of any kind, so I always replace the seal/bearing. But with that said, and though I've never done it myself, I think it's a good idea to trace the source down with the UV dye. Have you pulled off you CS sprocket yet? Sure it's not your clutch case side seal that leaking? Look forward to hearing what you find.

 

[justintendo]

shouldnt be hard to see where its coming from if you dry the whole engine, then look for wet oil. not too many leak areas here..especially if it isnt moving. many times with the correct amount of oil in the engine, it will leak if leaned to the right and be dry while on the kickstand.

 

[suprize]

the 400 weeps when on the bike stand (centred) and is fine on the kicker. I made a couple of bits of ply with a slot for the centre rail so its sits flat and steady.

 

[AbnMike]

Finally got around to draining/changing the oil. Used 30wt. Put it on two jack stands so it sits even in the garage (plus I don't have to snatch it up onto the stand I have). Leaked a bit out of the right side and was able to look last night with the UV light and see it was coming from the sprocket like folks said. Looked like I had put too much oil in it (filled it to the line above the MAX instead of the line below). Sucked some of the oil out and it didn't seem to leak anymore. There were a few drips on the left (shift) side ground this morning but the garage has windows and it's too bright to check again until this evening.

 

[justintendo]

Finally got around to draining/changing the oil. Used 30wt. Put it on two jack stands so it sits even in the garage (plus I don't have to snatch it up onto the stand I have). Leaked a bit out of the right side and was able to look last night with the UV light and see it was coming from the sprocket like folks said. Looked like I had put too much oil in it (filled it to the line above the MAX instead of the line below). Sucked some of the oil out and it didn't seem to leak anymore. There were a few drips on the left (shift) side ground this morning but the garage has windows and it's too bright to check again until this evening.

it will leak when the bike is operated, but should be fine just sitting level or on its stand..most dont really leak that bad when running, and the oil gets changed every 6-10 hours or whatever. should be too much an issue until the cases need split and you can replace that bearing.

 

[AbnMike]

it will leak when the bike is operated, but should be fine just sitting level or on its stand..most dont really leak that bad when running, and the oil gets changed every 6-10 hours or whatever. should be too much an issue until the cases need split and you can replace that bearing.

I wanted to get it out and run it today, warm up the oil, all that good stuff, but we got ice overnight, already slid down a hill in the Land Rover so it will have to wait.

 

[Bigbill]

I wash the bike, put newspaper under it. Overnight letting it mark its spot. Take a combination square and go up from the oil spot to the leak. The center of the oil mark is exactly where the leak is dripping. The shifter shaft o ring is below the oil level. Look for a shiney area on the case. The leak will be very thin not like a river.

Second thought,,,,pull the rear sprocket, remove the four screws holding the retaining bracket for the output bearing. The bearing seal could be leaking. I silicone the retaining bracket lightly. Then put some silicone on the spacer and splines. This forms a bathtub so most of the oil can runout.

I stayed away from parking my 1200 bandit near Harley's so it didn't learn any bad habits. Lol

 

[oldbikedude]

I think it u ment front sprocket. Good move with your parking, HD's
don't like the smell of rice.

 

[Eurofreak]

Word to Thor
My Triumph and Guzzi are very well behaved. My BMW was trained from the factory as was my Buell. My KTM and 86 Husky are reasonably paper trained unless they've
ben flogged.

 

[Bigbill]

I don't accept oil leaks. No matter what vehicle there on.