• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

250-500cc KYB SSS Forks

Motovet45 said:
Does the Braking POW106 work on the 06 SSS forks to fit the Husky caliper?
What will the 10mm difference in height affect? Handling?
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The Braking POW106 is for the '08+ fork. For '06 SSS fork with the older lug you would use the POW13. These are both for Nissin calipers and 260mm rotors. I have not tried to fit a Brembo caliper. Nissin brakes from blown up YZFs are all over ebay just like the forks.

As far as the length, my Zokes are 940mm and I run them 10mm up in the clamps. So, these will just be run 5mm (one line) lower for the same geometry and still have another 5mm option. The longer fork will work fine too, but that means more above the clamp and I don't like my bars any higher than neccessary. Maybe on a Husky it won't matter but on a Beta it means raise the bars. The reason the Yamaha KYB forks are different is that the 125 and 250F have a shorter steering head tube/stem, thats it, nothing else to it.
 
Kyle Tarry said:
Out of curiosity, did a tuner do the gold valves or did you do them yourself?

Edit: Never mind, I remembered this old thread: http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/husqvy-wr-300-on-motocross-track.34480/page-2

In that thread you said that the gold valves were a success, but I guess that your impression of them has changed. I think that your valving could be made a lot better...
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The track I initially rode them on was a vet track, at the other tracks I ride they did not do as we'll. I've noticed some of your posts on Thumper Talk regarding the Restackor program for valve stacks, have you found that this program works pretty good? I'm sure the valving could be a lot better but I'm a noob when it comes to changing the stacks and am really only going off the stacks on the sheets Race Tech sends out with their valves. They give several combinations but if you don't know which way to go it can be a handful.
 
GMP said:
The Braking POW106 is for the '08+ fork. For '06 SSS fork with the older lug you would use the POW13. These are both for Nissin calipers and 260mm rotors. I have not tried to fit a Brembo caliper. Nissin brakes from blown up YZFs are all over ebay just like the forks.

As far as the length, my Zokes are 940mm and I run them 10mm up in the clamps. So, these will just be run 5mm (one line) lower for the same geometry and still have another 5mm option. The longer fork will work fine too, but that means more above the clamp and I don't like my bars any higher than neccessary. Maybe on a Husky it won't matter but on a Beta it means raise the bars. The reason the Yamaha KYB forks are different is that the 125 and 250F have a shorter steering head tube/stem, thats it, nothing else to it.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the info, I guess I will check everything out once I get my hands on the forks. Right now I'm just guessing.
 
Motovet45 said:
The track I initially rode them on was a vet track, at the other tracks I ride they did not do as we'll. I've noticed some of your posts on Thumper Talk regarding the Restackor program for valve stacks, have you found that this program works pretty good? I'm sure the valving could be a lot better but I'm a noob when it comes to changing the stacks and am really only going off the stacks on the sheets Race Tech sends out with their valves. They give several combinations but if you don't know which way to go it can be a handful.
Click to expand...

ReStackor works well for certain things, but it's not intuitive. I don't think it makes sense for your average tinkerer to buy a copy just to do one set of forks, the learning curve is too steep.

I do not want to dissuade you from swapping to SSS forks, because they are very good. However, there is no reason that your stock forks should be that bad. They used the same forks on a bunch of very good, very successful MX bikes for quite a few years in the early 2000's.

If you want to try to improve your forks, you could start a thread about it and there are quite a few people here who could probably chime in. This is a classic case of why I don't always suggest RaceTech stuff; you're not necessarily any better off now than you were with the stock stuff.
 
You really have to be able to get a very good baseline feel of a fork setup and then analyze it with Restackor, then it is expressed in numbers and can be delt with. Its not a replacement for good evaluation experience.

I agree with Kyle, no need for the Gold Valves on this fork or most others for that matter. Sure they can work but its a completely different piston and will need completely different stacks. The only reason to scrap stock pistons is if there is a flow problem but in this fork (and most) that is not the case. You could actually prove this to yourself with Restackor.

The SSS fork retains that plush initial feel because the cartridge pressure starts off essentially at 0, like an OC fork. The valving specs are relatively stiff to deal with the unstable oil at this point even for woods setups. The Marzocchi 48 PFP concept is the opposite. Much higher initial pressure even at minimun PFP and much lighter valving, with a comp piston you could breathe through! Different approaches that both work.
 
If it's a good comparison, I had an 07 te510, 2010 te250 and now 14 te250r(SSS), the new bike would shit all over the zokes on the 510, even if they had no oil in them.
I have nothing good to say about the shivers, absolute garbage forks.
 
rabskyline said:
I have nothing good to say about the shivers, absolute garbage forks.
Click to expand...

The Shiver 45s on my TE610 are some of the best woods forks I have ever ridden. They have some revalving and some tweaks, but nothing magical.

It's all about setup and personal preference.
 
Kyle Tarry said:
The Shiver 45s on my TE610 are some of the best woods forks I have ever ridden. They have some revalving and some tweaks, but nothing magical.

It's all about setup and personal preference.
Click to expand...
Must have so me decent work and a good tuner to get them decent.
KYB are far superior stock.
 
Zoke 45 Shivers have a high rate of anodizing failure, especially the GG versions due to the thinner upper tube wall to fit their clamps originally designed for the prior WP43s. I had my GG with them working well but only in a limited scope of terrain and speed. After some time on a modern CC fork they are not even worth discussing. I just did a set of 2001 46mm OC KYBs on my son's KX and first try they were better than my Shivers ever were.
 
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