• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

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Kick starter lever removal

fotosaurus

Husqvarna
AA Class
My 76 250 WR has an incorrect (for the year) kick starter lever. I have a correct replacement but the lever that is installed is being stubborn about coming off. I've used a bit of WD-40 and the bolted connection is removed but it won't budge. Is there a problem using a propane torch to heat the lever to help remove it? Or is there another method? I'm afraid if I pry too hard I may end up damaging the case or a bearing or something internal to the engine.

Thanks!

Mark
 
the entire kicker assy is contained in the sidecase, if the kicker is removed, it will unwind. it may be best to remove the sidecase and work on it like that. the spring and mechanism can be mostly removed one the case is off. it will make sense once the case is off
 
Dang. I almost didn't post because I thought it was a stupid and basic question. I'm glad I asked. As usual I appreciate the information I get from this site. Thank you!
 
If I was you, for ease of starting , I won't go with the 76 stock kicker, I'd use a 78-80 one. It's longer and
doesn't cause you foot to hit the foot peg as much when starting.

Husky John
 
Thanks Husky John. As you can see in the pics the currently installed lever is the dogleg style, which I find difficult to use. I was going to install the unpainted one in the other pic but sounds like the black one mught be a better choice. I have actually seen pics of all three styles used on 76 bikes.

IMG_2381.JPGIMG_2382.JPG
 
i used the one you have unpainted at the bottom on my 79 and i really liked it. just the tip swung out....i never cared for the black ones, they were similiar to the early 80s style..they also seem to put more strain on the kicker area of the case. just my humble opinion tho. i did install a rubber piece on it similiar to your black one. im over 6 feet tall and everyone likes a different kicker!
 
My '76 250WR came with the same kicker in the top pic and it is horrible. Throw those other two kickers as far away as you can, or better yet, sell them to some sucker who has to have the "original". Do not even think about using anything but the black one on the top of the second picture, thats the '78-'80 kicker.
 
Pry the jaws of the kicker with a screwdriver to open it up a tad, get a large nut and bolt and tie wire it to the kicker at one end and use a crescent as a slide hammer to tap it off.
 
Well I'm only 5'-8" so i need all the help i can get kicking this thing over. Usually a milk crate or log helps LOL.

jo360 - justintendo replied above that the kick start spring and mechanism will unwind if I take the lever off without removing the case. are you suggesting this won't happen or do i still need to be worried about this?
 
go to husqvarnaparts .com and download a manual so you can see how it works. you have to preload the shaft with kicker to set the kicker pawl in the right position and you use the kick start lever to do this., flick it off the spline and the spring will unwind and throw the pawl into your gear box.:eek:
 
Changing the kicker is a easier with 2 people, remove the left side case, now with it off, move the kicker through it's stroke , you'll get an idea of how the spring mechanism winds. Now mark the part where the spring attaches, so you have a ref mark, mark it at 12 oclock or something like that, mark the case as well, so the marks line up, or at least parallel. Move the kicker through it's stroke again, making sure the marks line up. If it's easier mark the outside of the case & the kicker shaft portion that sticks through with a paint mark that goes on both parts, let the paint dry real good. It's also a good idea to look at direction the spring winds , I think it's counter clock wise, if I remember right, in case the spring unwinds.

Now take the side case assembly, and put some heavy blocks under it on our work bench, what your trying to do it have level stable area to work on so the case isn't all wobbly. Carefully loosen the kicker from it's shaft, try to loosen it slowly, so that the shaft doesn't turn. If you can get a pair of needle nose vise grip pliers behind the kicker as your loosen & clamp them so the shaft doesn't turn. You maybe able to do this before you even loosen the kicker clamping bolt, that's better yet. Have one person hold the kick shaft with the pliers as you pull the kicker completely off the shaft. If the shaft turns some you'll have the aligning marks to reposition it. Just make sure the pliers don't slip on the shaft. Have the person holding
the pliers, align the marks back up & put the new kicker back on , tighten it good & double check
the mark still line up & you should be done.

You can do this alone, but it's so much easier with some extra hands. Of course you can stop the spring from unwinding from the inside the case too, just be careful how or what you jam in where to do it. Tie wiring the spring mechanism so it doesn't unwind, works
too, remember there's more then one way to skin a cat.

Husky John
 
"flick it off the spline and the spring will unwind and throw the pawl into your gear box".:eek:

The early motor (pre 1982) don't have the pawl you describing.
 
def take the side cover off my post was just refering to the removal of the stubborn kicker, always pays to have a look and see how they work first hand.
 
I never take the side cover off, its really easy to change a kicker without talking the cover off. Pry the kicker out just enough (without letting it come all the way off) to get a pair of needle nose Vise Grip pliers on the shaft, this will let you hold the shaft to keep it from unwinding, then just slide the new kicker on. Once the new kicker is on the splines, you can remove the Vise Grips and push it all the way. Super easy, and it only takes me 5 min to do the whole procedure.
 
Thanks so much for all the information and advice. Once again I'm in awe of what you guys know. Other than top end rebuilds I haven't done much engine work. I wish I knew half of what you've proabably forgotten.

Thanks again!

Mark
 
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