• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

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kick start tension

disonny

disonny

Husqvarna
AA Class
What is the proper way to install the kick start lever as far as the spring tension goes? The clutch cover is on and that part should be good. Just trying to get the kicker on the right place.
Thanks
 
Is this on the late 7 0's? Mid '70's. Early 70s??

On the late 70's you need to make sure the drive ratchet gear missing the driven gear when the kicker is all the way up locked in place. The driven gear spins when the engine is running so it needs to clear the ratchet gears teeth. It's the position of the kick starter at the same time these two gears that engage each other to start the engine need a gap between them when the kick starter is fully up.
 
Spot on Bill. Take the cover off, leave the kicker on. Adjust it so it does as Bill says. Take time and care and it will serve well.
 
Too big of a gap or space between the gears you'll have less kick lever movement. Most of the movement will be lost on the gear engagement. So the smaller the gap is better as long as the gears don't hit each other.

What a work of engineering that goes into these bikes. I been a mechanic since I could turn wrenches. Then I was rebuilding and building new machine tools. I have a uncanny sense where I can look at something different and understand how it works. Plus one of these clutch covers was all in pieces kicker wise. I heard the wicked noise from the gears being too close when running.. The swedes are very smart on there designs back then plus the quality of there workmanship and materials. This is why we see most of the other European bikes still running too.
 
The bike I just picked up is a 82 wr430. How does adjusting this work? By putting the gear on in a different spot? I'll have to pull the case and see what you mean. Thanks for the input.
 
82? Newer case? It has the pawl that locks inside the slots on the gear. There's a stop the pawl hits when the kicker is fully and when disengaged.
 
Newer case, yes. I was surprised that this has the primary kick. I'll pull the case and see what I find. Thanks Bill.
 
keep an extra pawl in your toolbox just the corner grabs and 430s will break one for time to time if you get caught without one you can flip it over and use the other side when you get it timed right put some sort of timing mark on the kicker and shaft so you put it back right after you change that return spring or oil seal it saves a lot of fiddling:thumbsup:
 
I just took the case off and the only way for the kicker to engage sooner is to move the kicker on the shaft. Now the pawl is just at the edge of engaging in the inner gear. Before, the kicker engaged about half way thru the stroke.

What kind of trans fluid should I use? I know that's a loaded question, some guys use automotive trans fluid. Is that ok to use in the vintage bikes?
 
sounds like you figured out the kicker! its a nice setup once you learn how it goes...
the manual calls for 20w motor oil. many use type f auto tranny fluid, as its close to that weight. others use a 10w30 motorcycle engine oil. yet others will use heavier oil all the way up to gear oil.
personally i like type f or lighter engine oil. if you use a motorcycle engine oil (or any oil) look for a jaso-ma rating, which means it is safe for a wet clutch. also if you use the search bar here there are many threads detailing this and it gives specific brands as well.
 
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