• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Kenda Tube Stop Nuts

P

pcross71

Husqvarna
AA Class
Just installed a new Kenda Tuff Tube on my rear wheel (first time, boy those videos make it look easy) and the tube came with two stop nuts on the valve stem. It looked like the first one had to go inside the rim to hold a concave washer against the tube - so did one nut inside and one outside. But I wonder if both were supposed to go outside locked against one another (i resisted this as it was hard enough to get the valve stem through the hole without worrying about the washer dropping into the rim). Anyone know? And if I did incorrectly, will the nut inside the rim (between the rim tape and the tube) create a problem (bad enough to pull it all again...)??
Thanks!
Peter
 
I have seen tubes run with one nut inside the rim and one out, and I have also seen rims run with none on the inside and one on the outside. I've even seen them run without any locknuts on them anywhere. I usually run them with one on the outside.:excuseme:
 
Always check the tightness of the one next to the tube. The other ones sole purpose is to keep the valve stem from pulling back in and loosing it inside when putting the tire on. After tire is aired up DO NOT tighten it up. It should go up against the valve cap.
Many think it is susposto be tightened.
Reason not to is so you can see if the valve stem is starting to lean this is caused by the tire slipping on the rim, with the valve stem tight it will tear it off the tube.
If it starts to lean then just have to deflate the tire break the bead loose put something between spokes and swing arm pull tire back so stem is straight again and reinflate it.
Later George
 
Thank you both for the help - so i guess the take-away is (a) the second nut is fine on the inside and (b) the outside nut goes against the cap, not the rim - THANKS! George - i take it you're able to break the bead with the wheel mounted? Or do you remove, break, and reinstall to pull the tire around the rim? If on the bike, how?? I had to push awful hard on the bead to break.

Thanks.
Peter
 
Just have to do what ever it takes, sometimes tire iron will do it, large water pump pliers,dynomite or c4 some get really stuck.
Later George
 
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