• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

KAYABA SUSPENSION SETUP TE449/511

SAM511

SAM511

Husqvarna
AA Class
Firstly, I will preface my comments by stating that I am a trailrider and with full riding kit on including Camelback and Bum Bag I would tip the scales at around 238-240 lbs.

FRONT FORKS
In the 2011 TE511 the standard fork rate is 0.46 Nm (also equates to 0.47 Kg).
I suggest that the valving is out rather than the spring. It is relatively harsh on the small trail debris at the very first part of the stroke, tends to blow through the mid stroke rather quickly and then hit a wall at the end that never seems close to bottoming out. Recently I had Racetech put a full Gold Valve package in, with all valving reviewed and amended. To say that it has been a revelation for me as to how good the new action is now, is an understatement. No spikes in any part of the stroke and now progressive through the mid stroke. :thumbsup:

REAR SHOCK
The rear is the opposite story.
The standard spring rate is 5.1 Kg and IMO is too soft, but the valving appears basically OK.
So far clicker adjustments, a 4mm shock OAL reduction spacer from Racetech to lower the rear ride height by 12mm, and a Racetech 5.4 Kg spring has done the trick.
I have tightened up the rebound to 13 clicks out from max to allow for the increased spring rate, left LS compression at 11 clicks out (default), but also found that the HS compression was now too tight with the new spring. I wound the HSC out to 1.75 turns from maximum and in conjunction with the tightened rebound it has stopped the kick in the backside on braking bumps and the like.

I have now found my perfect trail set up.

Revalve the forks and upgrade the shock spring rate is my recommendation.

SAM511
 
Hi Sam.Just wondering what race sag you are running on it now with the shortened shock.I have a 2011 standard suspension with 120 race sag.
 
javadog said:
Hi Sam.Just wondering what race sag you are running on it now with the shortened shock. I have a 2011 standard suspension with 120 race sag.
Click to expand...


Hi Javadog,

The shorter OAL of the shock (4mm spacer = 12mm shorter overall open length), has helped me obtain better overall sag numbers. The shorter shock length idea came from the 2012 models and the beauty of it all is that you can easily remove the spacer if you are not happy !!

However bear in mind that I have installed a 5.4 Kg racetech spring as well as the spacer for my 238 lb all up rider weight with gear.

I used to be around 48-50mm static sag (with full tanks) and around 120-122mm rider sag. Now, I am around 38mm static sag (with full tanks) and back to better rider sag of around 110mm.

IMO the shock valving appears basically OK for trail riding.


SAM511
 
Would you suggest trying the new 2012 spring first or going for the spacer?
Im on a '11 449 and Im 260lbs riding.
I jumped mine the first time yesterday and while I didnt bottom it out, it shure used everybit of travel. I need to stiffen it up but I dont want to loose the trail handling charecterisics either.

Im new to this so Im watching and learning.
 
McKay said:
Would you suggest trying the new 2012 spring first or going for the spacer?
Im on a '11 449 and Im 260lbs riding.
I jumped mine the first time yesterday and while I didnt bottom it out, it shure used everybit of travel. I need to stiffen it up but I dont want to loose the trail handling charecterisics either.

Im new to this so Im watching and learning.
Click to expand...

Hi McKay,

IMHO the 4mm spacer in conjunction with the 5.4Kg linear spring has done the trick for me.
It has lowered the rear (12mm), helped in getting better sag ratios and flattened the bikes stance a bit by reducing the arse high attitude of the 2011 bike.

After lowering the rear (and remembering that every action has an opposite reaction), you should further ballance the bike by pulling the forks up through the triple clamps to, say, the second detent line on the forks. This how the 2012 bikes are being set up.

Be aware not to overspring the rear with too stiff a spring rate. CTS has quite an effect on the action of the rear suspension and requires less spring than a normal setup.
I think a Kayaba 5.3 or Racetech 5.4 should suit you well. Dial the clickers from there.

SAM511
 
Thanks, the spacer is an internal mod correct? Something I need to send the shock in for?
 
SAM511 said:
After lowering the rear (and remembering that every action has an opposite reaction), you should further ballance the bike by pulling the forks up through the triple clamps to, say, the second detent line on the forks. This how the 2012 bikes are being set up.

SAM511
Click to expand...

For those of us with stock length 2011 rear shocks, where should the fork tubes be if the rear sag is 120mm?
 
McKay said:
Thanks, the spacer is an internal mod correct? Something I need to send the shock in for?
Click to expand...

Correct.
The shock will be pulled down so you might as well have a service.
Incidentally, my nitrogen gas was almost non existent so in my case it wasn't a bad idea to have a service anyway. Cost $100 plus spacer instal $25.00.

SAM511
 
jon6.0 said:
For those of us with stock length 2011 rear shocks, where should the fork tubes be if the rear sag is 120mm?
Click to expand...

On 2011 bikes the fork set height in the triple clamps from the factory is 5mm which is the first detent line on the fork tubes (top line).

However, this is only an arbitory set height and should be adjusted to suit individuals.
I would suggest that if you are on 120mm rider sag (like I was with the standard shock) you would be better off setting your fork height at somewhere more than the 5mm line. If you are a woods rider go the 10mm line, if you are a desert or open terrain rider stay at 5mm or go half way. This will help keep some front to rear ballance and you will retain good steering.

I am a true believer in what Husky have done with the 2012 models. That little change of lowering the rear by 12mm has improved the stance of the chassis.

SAM511
 
Hmm. Ok. I set it to 5mm in front since I ride desert and fire roads. I'm currently doing laps around my house in the desert setting the clickers.
 
jon6.0 said:
Hmm. Ok. I set it to 5mm in front since I ride desert and fire roads. I'm currently doing laps around my house in the desert setting the clickers.
Click to expand...

In your style of riding, even taking into account the 120mm rider sag, there will be no real benefit going 10mm; unless you are a woods rider with quick changes in direction required.

What is your kitted up rider weight and what is your static sag number that gives the 120mm rider sag ?

IMO I think you could be a candidate for a spring and spacer upgrade. Not valving.

SAM511
 
jon6.0 said:
I'm 285-290lbs in gear.
Click to expand...

Jon,

You probably need a 5.6KG rear spring and a set of 0.48Kg-0.49Kg fork springs.
But at that point you will also need to valve the rear shock to control the significantly increased spring rate. The standard 2011 TE449/511 has a 5.1KG shock spring rate.

The golden rule is : always do the springs first and then revalve to suit after you have ridden it.

SAM511
 
javadog said:
Im running 120 rider sag with my forks at the second line,10 mm through
Click to expand...

Hi Javadog,

If you are a woods rider I think you are spot on.
If you are riding faster open terrain I would perhaps go to to the first line.
SAM511
 
Anyone have a suggestion where you can buy the Racetech 4mm spacer? Just bought a new 2011 TE 449 and would like to do this modification.
 
Im running a reiger rear shock 20mm lower ,with tc449 forks. I like a lowish seat height on my bikes and to balance the bike my forks are touching the underside of the handlebars with no bar risers. If you lower the rear height the steering with be slower. Before doing any alterations make sure yoour running the correct springs for your weight especially the front. The more your lower the rear shock you'll be riding a lot more mid stroke which could make it harsher. 1mm lower on the kyb rear is all id recommend or change the shock like I've done. 1mm with tc449 forks on the first ring mark is a good starting point.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top