• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Kayaba Fork Rebound Needle Removal

RailwayRog

Husqvarna
A Class
Got a 2011 Husky te310 that I'm changing the fork oil in. While I have the forks apart I wanted to grease the rebound needles (to prevent seizing up). I have done this on my KTM, the needle popped right out by sticking a thin straight object thru the mid-valve.
I tried this on my Kayaba and the needle doesn't want to pop out. I did not want to put undue force on it, so my question is, does this needle pop out or do a I need to break down the mid-valve to get at it which I'm not willing to do. And yes when apply pressure to the rebound rod I can feel the spring tension so it is not seized up.
I can't find a lot of information on these forks on the internet so I'm kind of flying in the dark.
 
The needle valve is down deep in the rod on the other side of the mid-valve. Someone answered it on another forum and says I don't have to worry about it seizing up and the needle doesn't pop out, so I would have to disassemble the rod which I'm not going to do.
 

Attachments

  • damper rod.jpg
    damper rod.jpg
    90.7 KB · Views: 21
Yeah, don't wory about it, it's not like a WP fork. But, if you take the rebound / MV holder off the end of the rod you can get it out.
 
I tried twisting off the MV holder and later discover somewhere on the internet you need to heat it in order to remove the holder. No way I'm I doing that.
So thanx for all the replies out there, this makes me feel a lot more confident about performing my own maintenance and understanding how things work.
 
Heating it isn't a big deal, it just need warmed up a little. Not skinning the shaft up is the part to worry about.
 
Any other Kayaba fork maintenance tips you can pass while I have most everything apart?
As it turns out I'll be replacing the stock springs with something heavier. Haven't figured out the rate yet.
Thanx again Motorhead
 
No, they're pretty straight forward. Warming the tubes up before you drive the bushing and seals in helps a lot, but that works on all of them.
 
Back
Top