• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

125-200cc Just Bought 2012 WR125

Ride report! Unfortunately while the powervalve adjustment does help on the bottom end, there is still absolutely no mid range. You give it throttle in first and it takes off like an angry 80 then the power flattens a bit and bogs then the amazing ripping lightswitch top end comes in with a change of about 500 RPM. It was four stroking a bit on the bottom so I pulled the carb to check the floats. The float valve was closing just before the floats topped out. I did a little adjustment so they would close the float valve about 3/8" down and the bike ran cleaner on the bottom but that was about it. I was going to race my new bike on Sunday but for now it will sit in my garage until Husqvarna or somebody has an answer. Right now this thing is basically unridable. I'm not very happy with my $6500 investment. Guess I'll go get my good old YZ ready to go.
 
Not kidding, the 2012 Husky WR125 costs $6500 out the door. Plus, I had to buy an aftermarket spark arrestor muffler in order to ride it. Kind of amazing that Husky doesn't provide a spark arrestor since any event held in the US on USFS or BLM land requires it. :confused:
 
CelticDude said:
Not kidding, the 2012 Husky WR125 costs $6500 out the door. Plus, I had to buy an aftermarket spark arrestor muffler in order to ride it. Kind of amazing that Husky doesn't provide a spark arrestor since any event held in the US on USFS or BLM land requires it. :confused:
Click to expand...
Read the little sticker on the rear fender.... Not a legal trail bike anymore.
 
CelticDude that sucks that your new Husky isn't sorted and going with you. I think someone like BillF will get them sorted but it should have came from Husky/dealer ready to go IMHO. Thank goodness I have the 08 CR144 and never had to go through what you WR owners have to. I still say Husky needs to put at least some tuning money into their 2-strokes. Good luck and sorry to read about the ongoing WR tuning issues. Oh.... big thanks out to BillF for his insite/help.
 
At least the 150 kit will be here in a couple of weeks. Maybe I'll go ahead and order the RB Airstriker Keihin carb.
 
Well had a chance to test my PV adjustment and jetting on the '12 WR125 and all is good to go now. It runs like a typical 125 now.
Here's where I'm at and I'll be breaking it in further this Wed. at the MX track so I should at that point know if any further fine tuning is needed jetting wise but I'd say it's pretty damn close at the moment.
I'm running the needle clip raised one from stock(ie richer by one)....put in a 40 pilot(45 was stock)...air screw is 2 turns out...idle is set so it just barely stays running with no throttle...small PV arm is set about 3/4 to full top...stock it was fully bottomed out....I'm in NJ at basically sea level and it's mid 50s with no humidity around here these days.
 
CelticDude said:
My jetting is the same as yours. How exactly did you set the PV arm?
Click to expand...
Loosened the two screws on the small metal arm and the part that is elongated and has an opening I moved upward till it was about 3/4" toward the top of that elongated opening. This in effect dropped the long plastic rod it is attached to that goes to the PVs almost to where it touches the bottom of the cylinder it's housed in. If you look at Kelly's pic which is post#9 in the thread/link you referenced earlier in this thread you can see it so it becomes clearer.
I thought you had said you settled on the needle the second notch from the top which would be opposite of where I have mine which is 2nd notch from the bottom which in my case raised it and richened up that circuit and yours would be leaned out if it's 2nd from the top??
 
Hmmm... that's the same way I adjusted my powervalve. Yeah, you are right on the needle position. I tried it where yours is and it ran a bit rich. The only main difference now is the Leo Vince spark arrestor muffler on mine. I can't run the stock muffler anywhere except an MX track.
 
BILLF said:
Sticky subject,some is the fact that certain countrys tax on horsepower so we get tem with throttle stops,super lean jetting,etc,we even had some sneak thru in years past with diffuser cones welded just inside the header on all the 2 strokes down to the size of your little finger.The fact is a Wr125 is slow because of the large flywheel even if you carb it perfect its a little piston trying to move alot of weight from low rpm,it cant do it.
In the old days of long skirt pistons and early reed valves they had a bit more grunt but were slow.We always remember the TM/cr125 or YZ or RM that ripped but none of these bikes lugged either just they had teeny tiny rotors and spooled up fast.All you have to do is ask anyone who rode our CR150 how it ran,"perfect" and it was pretty much stone stock jetting and all out of the box.{with a FMFsparky"}
The Wr 125 just needs coaxing up then it rips,the Ducati ignition helps but the real cure is the Cr digital Kokasan set up with the little rotor.Its a shame they dont build a 200cc bike,the 144cc kit helps alot .I know jetting and compression boost helps alot with the proper fuel on the 125 ,the only cure is 167 kits like Walt and others run or Cr ignition or both ,bottom line its still a 125 with a big flywheel.The new bikes are coming with alot closer jetting and as already stated the new Cr125s for 2012 run pretty great out of the box.
Click to expand...
Sounds like the Ducati ignition with being a little lighter and a different curve is something I will be interested in. That being said, I like the heavy flywheel effect for where I ride, don't really want the power spooling up to quickly, I need traction and smooth power.
The reason some have trouble with the WR is it takes a lot of fuel in the mid-range to get that heavy flywheel spinning. When I was trying the mikuni, I was able to get it rich enough in the middle but then it would be too rich on bottom and top. That was before the RM needle was discovered by Darin. I moved on to 36mm PWK with NOZF needle and that got it pretty close. Not saying it will rev as quick as a CR, but that is not what I am looking for. I am sure there are differences in PV's also because everyones jetting seems to be different, but the main thing is to have enough fuel to get the flywheel spinning.
GP
GP
 
CelticDude said:
Hmmm... that's the same way I adjusted my powervalve. Yeah, you are right on the needle position. I tried it where yours is and it ran a bit rich. The only main difference now is the Leo Vince spark arrestor muffler on mine. I can't run the stock muffler anywhere except an MX track.
Click to expand...
If you put it back to the stock position that doesn't work either?
Did you try the needle that comes in the jetting kit with the bike? I haven't and I don't even know if it's a richer or leaner one but you might want to try that just for the helluva it...
 
I've got another Hare Scrambles on Sunday. Hope I can get this figured out by then. I think I'm going to take the cover off of the PV valve and try a bunch of settings. I might try that needle also and some more jetting changes. :confused:
 
Thanks. I'd like to try the 5.0 slide but all the spares in my kit were duplicates of what I already have. So I have 2 - 4.0 slides, 2- 45 pilots etc...
 
Pollution Laws world wide are making life hard for manufactures of the 2T, warranty is also an issue. Have a play tuning and you may be very happy with the resaults. I had issues with my 2008 Wr250, now all sorted :cheers:
 
Hey folks,
Been a while since I've posted here, some of you may remember me, some not, but I just picked a WR125 up on Tuesday. Been readin ever since. I bought a new TE450 back in 07 and been having a blast play riding mostly dual sports and some enduro's for fun, but been getting the 2 stroke itch again. Now that they are street legal, it was a no brainer for me to pick one up. I raced the A light class for about 5 years in the ECEA. Was running YZ125's back then (1994 to 1999) and absolutely loved them. I can't wait to get this bike broke in and jetting straightend out. Hopefully this week end. Once I get some time on it, I'll let you know what I think.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top