• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

jetting question

I already had the fork pump.

A low pressure gauge with 1/8 NPT male thread. A Schrader valve with a 1/8 NPT male thread. A scrap piece of alloy bar. One end turned to mimic the Mikuni carb end. A small hole through the middle. Tap a 1/8 NPT thread into one end for the gauge. Drill another hole at 90 degrees to meet the centre hole. Tap the end 1/8 NPT to accept the Schrader valve. The rubber cap is from an aquatic store, designed to cap off fish tank pipes. Just leave the spark plug in place.
The whole lot from fleabay (except the pump) cost less than 50 dollars. Let the carb and exhaust swing out of the way (I didn't even remove the tank). With this set up it also tests the reed cage and inlet manifold, along with the exhaust stub. I tested mine with the piston half way down the bore so that all the ports are open.


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pretty nice grouty, thanks..I saw another here somewhere with plugs in the intake and exhaust and a spark plug tire pump inlet...with the piston exposing the ports and case of course...like I'd NEVER goof that up, haha.

a professional mechanic I was visiting recently said to check the vacuum as well...some means of pulling a vacuum and a valve to close it off in both pressure and vacuum t5o try and take the pump and plumbing out of the path...tearing down an engine because the tire pump leaked, well...haha, I'd NEVER be dumb enough to do that..almost NEVER.

althjo it's been talked about here before, I wonder if this topic should have it's own thread as this was the very related jetting question..glad I'm not the moderator..

so I searched (who's a good boy?)

and there were four that turned up the word 'Vacuum'...and Jimspac's comment is to be read on the subject:

Jimspac: Do a leakdown test. You need a rubber plug that can seal your exhaust and a plastic plug with a small hole through it for the intake carb mount. You can then use a Mity Vac pump to create a vacuum and it should hold steady vacuum (6psi) for at least 6 minutes. Vacuum is safer than pressurizing
Click to expand...
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/87-wr-250-wont-start.35405/#post-341079

and another "Can anyone tell me me how to do a leakdown test?"
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/can-anyone-tell-me-how-to-do-a-leak-down-test.34965/#post-334602
in which 86 400XC and Ron talk about both pressure AND vacuum testing setups.

that was just from the "vacuum" search..'leak down test" will have more..yay for 'search' function!
 
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