jetting issue or no????

[mxracernumber1]

Sooo I just had my first valve check a 38 hrs. The valves were out of spec & adjusted according to the manual. However, I am experiencing a slight bog whenI whack the throttle from idle or near idle, even after the engine is hot. My mechanic said that the dealer had intalled a TC needle and jet set up. He said it was running too lean. However, I never had a problem with it being anything other than awesome as hell until a few weks ago. He made the mixture richer and now it blows a little smoke when I whack it and still has a slight bog. What happened? He wants to put the TE needle and jets back in it, but it was fine as it was when I bought it. He still can't get the bog out of it. It seems to run a little stronger, but still has a slight bog coming off of idle. So now that my valves are back in spec., what's going on? It's not too bad, but it was perfect when I brought it home from the dealer. What happened to my throttle response on my beloved 2007 TE450???

 

[Coffee]

Describing how to jet a bike is tough over the internet. If it was running great before I'd put those jets back in.

Might want to ask you mechanic 'why' he thought the bike was lean. If he says 'spark plug color' personally I'd find another mechanic if you are using pump gas. Fuels sold today are intended to burn clean and plug color means little.

A 4st will run horrible if it is too lean.

 

[Creeper]

So let me get this straight... your bike has an off idle bog or flat spot when you quickly open the throttle, and the "mechanic" suggests that it's too lean and he richens what... the idle mixture screw adjustment?

I'm with Coffee on this one... why?

Assuming jetting is close... why is no one looking at the available adjustments on the AP? You can adjust when the AP starts and it's durration... considering the symptom, that's what I'd be looking at.

I don't have a Husky, so I don't know this, but does the FCR for the Husky have a leak jet? Another potential adjustment there.

C

 

[Coffee]

So let me get this straight...

I believe the bike was running great when he took it to his mechanic for a valve check and for whatever reason the mechanic thought it was lean and changed the jetting.

I think that is what he meant from the first post.

Like most other manufacturers the leak jets installed change somewhat frequently. The 2006/7 TEs all had the AP disabled, and many had blank leak jets cause with the AP disabled it did not matter.

It's a huge topic.

 

[Creeper]

It's a huge topic.

"Ah-ha" says me... if the Husky specific issues and cures are well known, then I'll butt out with my more generic information.

C

 

[mxracernumber1]

To clarify: It was rejetted by my dealer when I bought it new in Sept. of last year. He removed all the crap that was choking it up and had to rejet to get it just right. It was perfect and I never had any trouble with it. RECENTLY, I started getting this slight bog right off throttle when I pinned the gas. I decided that since the bike has 39 hours on it that I'd get the valves adjusted. Since I was doing a vlave job and it would be in the shop anyway, I asked the mechanic to address the bogging issue. He says that my dealer had a TC needle and TC jetting setup in the carb. He put the jetting back to stock, but didn't have the needle for it, so left the TC needle in. When I picked it up, I could definitely tell a difference in power delivery, but again, right off idle, bog. The issue still persists despite him going back to the std. jetting (again, still has TC needle). My question was this:Why after nearly 40 hours has this just now become an issue? His efforts to address the issue seem to have had little effect on it. He has instructed me to ride it & if I don't like it to reinstall the TE needle and try that. I think it does fine oterwise, just the one little issue of bogging right off idle.

by the way, he did say it was jetted VERY lean. I think he said he went up from the 45 thye had in it to 48. By the way, my question is not how to je the bike. My question was is this a jetting issue and/or why has it just turned up? Any ideas?

 

[Coffee]

...My question was is this a jetting issue and/or why has it just turned up? Any ideas?

Sounds like jetting to me.

Some ideas

• The weather has changed and now it is cooler?
• Any change in elevation?
• Carb getting dirty or jets plugged?
• Fuel age issues?
• Air filter recently cleaned / change in oiling method? (I'm reaching)

.

 

[mxracernumber1]

Sounds like jetting to me.

Some ideas

• The weather has changed and now it is cooler? Yes
• Any change in elevation? No
• Carb getting dirty or jets plugged? Cleaned
• Fuel age issues? Maybe
• Air filter recently cleaned / change in oiling method? (I'm reaching) No. I clean afer nearly every ride. Same way every time. only use bel-ray spray on air filteroil.

.

 

[Fast1]

Have you found out from your mechanic which valves were off in valve lash and what shim number they inserted to correct it?

Sometimes a bog off idle could be caused by being lean also. When you wack the throttle from 5K RPM does it bog? What RPMS are you wacking the throttle at and getting the bog?

 

[mxracernumber1]

Just right off of idle, or pretty darn near to it. I rode it yesterday for about 30 min. It's back to it's old self tother than the bog. When I'm shifting hard, there is no bog at all, but when I'm cruising in 1 or 2nd and whack it it hesitates slightly before it blasts away. When putting at low rpm in 1st, then whack it, it's a little more of a bog, then takes off. If it's idling at a stop & I whack it it really bogs. Seems like this might be an fuel screw issue??? It's not a real problem, just that it wasn't doing it before. I'd like to have it 100% if possible. Someone who's never ridden it probably wouldn't notice it as much as I do, but I'm pretty well used to the power by now to know exactly what I'm supposed to be getting and when I'm supposed to get it. Any advice???

 

[Coffee]

Just right off of idle, or pretty darn near to it. I rode it yesterday for about 30 min. It's back to it's old self tother than the bog. When I'm shifting hard, there is no bog at all, but when I'm cruising in 1 or 2nd and whack it it hesitates slightly before it blasts away. When putting at low rpm in 1st, then whack it, it's a little more of a bog, then takes off. If it's idling at a stop & I whack it it really bogs. Seems like this might be an fuel screw issue??? It's not a real problem, just that it wasn't doing it before. I'd like to have it 100% if possible. Someone who's never ridden it probably wouldn't notice it as much as I do, but I'm pretty well used to the power by now to know exactly what I'm supposed to be getting and when I'm supposed to get it. Any advice???

My educated guess would be that you need more AP squirt. You may have a 65 or 70 leak jet, you could go to a 55 or even a 45 leak jet.

Before this issue how much did you ride in cooler weather? You said you picked it up last Sept (2007) did you ride in cooler weather then?

You should have the AP disable cap removed and the AP arm should be somewhere near 2.75mm. Here is a pic of what I mean:

Here is a video regarding the AP cap
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mo-vHZm37U4

Here is a video regarding how to re-jet and what all the jets are:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=olbkQIeddrM


If you could tell us what the jets are it would be much easier
Pilot jet
Main jet
Leak jet
AP arm enabled
AP distance setting
AP arm O-ring (if any) - here is a pic of where the Oring goes if it is installed on the AP arm

.

 

[Coffee]

Hah!

Found a pic of the AP disable cap installed:

 

[Mercury264]

I'm following this thread with interest since I have always had issues with my TE in the same manner - i.e. off-idle throttle response. I just installed a JD jet kit (new needle, main, pilot and leak jet) and it still wasn't right out on the trail over the weekend so I need to play some more. I was also getting tome popping on the overrun which I don't recall ever having before.

One quick question....what does the little o-ring do - the JD kit came with 2 and I put the 'milder' one on but I'm still not sure what it does

 

[Fast1]

Just right off of idle, or pretty darn near to it. I rode it yesterday for about 30 min. It's back to it's old self tother than the bog. When I'm shifting hard, there is no bog at all, but when I'm cruising in 1 or 2nd and whack it it hesitates slightly before it blasts away. When putting at low rpm in 1st, then whack it, it's a little more of a bog, then takes off. If it's idling at a stop & I whack it it really bogs. Seems like this might be an fuel screw issue??? It's not a real problem, just that it wasn't doing it before. I'd like to have it 100% if possible. Someone who's never ridden it probably wouldn't notice it as much as I do, but I'm pretty well used to the power by now to know exactly what I'm supposed to be getting and when I'm supposed to get it. Any advice???

what slot position is the clip on the needle? Try lowering the clip one slot down on the needle. From my experience, correcting a very similar jetting problem, it was resultant from being lean and changing the clip one positon down solved it.

This should be a very quick and easy test to complete.

 

[mxracernumber1]

Thanks for all the input. Once again Mr. Coffee is very thorough. That's how a forum should be run. I'll get all the particulars from him tomorrow. He did mention that he thought the clip position didn't seem to make much difference, put putting the TE needle back in might alleviate that.

As for riding in cold weather, I didn't ride it much past Oct. of last year. We have extreme swings in temperature during this time of year. It's in the low 40's in the morning and a perfect 75 at 5:00, so while it's nice at mid day aftenoon riding 32 miles to work in the morning gets pretty damned old at 43 deg. Also, I still had the KLX at the time and was trying to keep the road miles off the TE by switching it up. I did do a ride in Feb. The high that day was 36 and it rained all day. I didn't notice it haing that problem then.

Again, thanks for the help. I'll get all the particulars from my mechanic tomorrow. I'll check that AP disable gap myself this week.

 

[CKPC]

07 TE 510 put in the JD kit and then messed with it with Coffees help and have not touched it since and that was Spring of 07. I have been from sea level to 10,000 ft and have not had any issues. I just did my first value adjust today and only had one that was off on the exhaust side.

Watched your vid again Coffee and the job went very smooth!!! Rode it around for about 30 mins and all is good.. Still love this bike!!!

 

[Coffee]

One quick question....what does the little o-ring do - the JD kit came with 2 and I put the 'milder' one on but I'm still not sure what it does

When the little black arm is rotating the AP is squirting, tying the little back arm to the AP screw thingy will "Change the squirt", I really don't want to get into a lot of detail cause it would take too long.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LD7EvRgMQm4

Maybe this shows it better, it also shows how the squirt changes with the AP gap.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ool_jiy4kxQ

what slot position is the clip on the needle?

Good catch!

I'm always forgetting something.

.

 

[Coffee]

Thanks for all the input. Once again Mr. Coffee is very thorough. That's how a forum should be run. I'll get all the particulars from him tomorrow. He did mention that he thought the clip position didn't seem to make much difference, put putting the TE needle back in might alleviate that.

As for riding in cold weather, I didn't ride it much past Oct. of last year. We have extreme swings in temperature during this time of year. It's in the low 40's in the morning and a perfect 75 at 5:00, so while it's nice at mid day aftenoon riding 32 miles to work in the morning gets pretty damned old at 43 deg. Also, I still had the KLX at the time and was trying to keep the road miles off the TE by switching it up. I did do a ride in Feb. The high that day was 36 and it rained all day. I didn't notice it haing that problem then.

Again, thanks for the help. I'll get all the particulars from my mechanic tomorrow. I'll check that AP disable gap myself this week.

What we need to be useful is:
Take some tape and put a piece on the throttle, and another on the stationary part that does not turn and mark it at closed, 1/8, 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, and WOT.

Then when you are testing the following is needed, if you don't get this information then the quality of our answers will not be as high as it could be.

Temp at time of test
How does it run at 1/8 WOT
How does it run at 1/4 WOT
How does it run at 1/2 WOT
How does it run at 3/4 WOT
How does it run at WOT

Then at 1/8 WOT whack the throttle wide open - what happened?
Then at 1/4 WOT whack the throttle wide open - what happened?

While running at WOT for at least 5 seconds RAPIDLY close the throttle to 1/2 WOT - for that split second after going to 1/2 WOT, did it run better or worse?
While running at 1/2 WOT for at least 5 seconds RAPIDLY close the throttle to 1/4 WOT - for that split second after going to 1/4 WOT, did it run better or worse?

It all sounds super complicated, it's not, just a 5 minute bike ride.

You get bonus points for repeating that test with the choke pulled out a little bit then the Hot start pulled out a little bit.

Even more bonus points for repeating that test when the air temp has changed by 10 Fahrenheit.

It would also be good to fill your geographical location in your profile, I think you are either in Canada or the NE part of USA?

07 TE 510 put in the JD kit and then messed with it with Coffees help and have not touched it since and that was Spring of 07. I have been from sea level to 10,000 ft and have not had any issues. I just did my first value adjust today and only had one that was off on the exhaust side.

Watched your vid again Coffee and the job went very smooth!!! Rode it around for about 30 mins and all is good.. Still love this bike!!!

 

[mxracernumber1]

update

[/QUOTE]

SOrry about the location thing. I'm in southeastern NC. 45 miles form the coast. Think 98 deg. days and 100% humidity, alligators and places you need a mechete to get through. I actually did your test yesterday. It was 68 deg. Here's how it shook out:

How does it run at 1/8 WOT-o.k. nothing to note smooth like normal
How does it run at 1/4 WOT-o.k. nothing to note smooth like normal
How does it run at 1/2 WOT-o.k. getting pretty strong
How does it run at 3/4 WOT-like a bat out of hell
How does it run at WOT-separating my forearms from my body at the elbow
Then at 1/8 WOT whack the throttle wide open - what happened?-bog, cut off (sitting still)
Then at 1/4 WOT whack the throttle wide open - what happened?-almost no bog, then whamo! off to the races.
While running at WOT for at least 5 seconds RAPIDLY close the throttle to 1/2 WOT - for that split second after going to 1/2 WOT, did it run better or worse? runs o.k., but pops a little pop or two, then back to normalWhile running at 1/2 WOT for at least 5 seconds RAPIDLY close the throttle to 1/4 WOT - for that split second after going to 1/4 WOT, did it run better or worse? one very small pop, then back to normal

Got the info from my mechanic today., though I didn;t have time to check the AP as you instructed. I'll try to do that today or Friday.

Main Jet-180 (did not change)
Pilot Jet-52 (up from 48)
Needle-4th pos. (up from 3rd.-this is a TC needle)

Remeber, my dealer installed a TC needle and rejetted it for me before I bought it. He handed me what it took out in a bag to carry home with me. I had no trouble with it before now until just recently. That's why we started monkying with it in the first place. Also, I wasn't having any trouble during cooler weather last yearabout the same time.

Thanks for the help.

 

[Coffee]

Just to be clear - what you reported was while actually riding it, right? 45 mph road works pretty good.


What it does in neutral in your driveway is meaningless....