• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

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    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

JD Tuner and flame-outs on my TE449

K5PL5

K5PL5

Husqvarna
Pro Class
So Ive got about 600 miles on the TE now and the fuel injection seems to be worked out pretty good except for occasional flame-outs when pulling out from red lights, stop signs, etc. Driving in stop and go rush hour traffic today in Southwest Philly area was a bit sketchy. I puffs out on me and stalls when pulling out. Almost like the transition from idle to pilot circuit. Its p1ssing me off and its dangerous. I no longer have a hanging idle after doing the TPS reset and the bike has no flat spots. It rips from idle to redline...when it doesnt stall on me.
Thoughts and suggestion please, and thanks
 
In most cases the JD will get you the rest of the way there. PCV or different maps from your dealer are other options. Is the power plug in it?
 
It read race map II since new. Was a factory demo from Woodcliff Lakes with like 30 miles on it. Can I get the map Tinken was talking about? An Akropovic map or something?
 
I couldn't agree more when you say it's dangerous. I attribute roughly 85% of my wipeouts, "get offs", mishaps, whatever you want to call them, were flame out
related. I was getting pissed off just as you are. I tried all the tricks, TPS reset, Air Screw, had the JD (which is an unbelievable product for power increase) but couldn't
shake the flame outs.
I don't know a lot in terms of Fuel Injection and how it works so I can't tell what is causing this annoying shit to happen but I was tired of it so I sucked it up and
got the PCV, sold the JD and haven't had a flame out since. I'm a very happy camper.
 
I had flameouts in the past, but have hardly had any since I did 2 things. Now my TE 449 was never a bad performer, (it seems so inconsistent as which ones run poorly)
1. I changed my gearing on the countershaft to 14.
2. As discussed in another thread I ran a stranded copper wire from the - negative on my Shorai battery to the frame, throttle body and frame again.
After that I went on a trail ride through Big Bear CA and had the most amazing performance. Excellent throttle response, no flame out, wheelies over logs and rocks.I have read others have eliminated stalls and credit the grounding wire. Maybe the FI loses power for a second and flames out? Running a ground is cheap and it worked for me.
 
I was originally under the assumption that the flame outs were caused from too lean of an air/fuel ratio mixture. With a careful understanding of how the JD tuner actually works and seeing the flame outs continue, I was convinced that the ecu was a faulty unit (the JD basically amplifies the original signal). The only way we could keep the engine from flaming out was to replace the ecu all together. Some people replaced the grounds on the system which seemed to cure the flame outs. Ty and I finally loaded completely new maps into the ecu, both map 1 & 2. The engine still runs completely lean, but no flame outs. I purposely coasted close to two miles down hill and chopped the throttle attempting to get which would for sure be a flame out, but to no prevail. Lugging, near idle cruising, no flame outs. I now believe that there is an error in the original maps that were loaded into the ecu's at the factory. Good luck getting BMW to admit to that one.
 
These new maps you were talking about on another post, did you upload them from a BMW/Husky map? "Akropovic maps"..?
 
Hey Tinken, can you give a detailed description on where to find the diff maps. My dealer is keen to have a look at my next service, but isn't sure where to start/look.

EDIT: The less work he has to do looking around the less I get charged for their time :P
 
As luck would have it, my program doesn't wish to open for me. I will look next week when I am back to the office.
 
I'm pretty sure my dealer would like to update mine as well :) So Caiman/Tinken, I would like the file as well :-)
 
Caiman said:
Is it part of that expensive husqvarna diagnostic tool program thing?
Click to expand...
Where are you getting it serviced? They loaded a new map on my bike at husky r&d. Not sure if its the one Tinken is talking about though....you could check with them though.
 
Wow thats interesting. Can you post a link or pics how you ran the ground?​


http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/te511-or-te449-dead-throttle-question.24276/page-3#post-261485


Desertyucca said: ↑
...I installed a new ground from the Battery (-) to the subframe bolt. I used the subframe bolt as my common Point since the Battery terminals are weak. I Needed a good point to connect multiple ground cables from and the subframe bolt was easy choice. Off the Sub Frame Bolt I installed a new ground to the Engine (Where the Coil ground wire connects), installed a New cable to the Throttle Body Bolt and a new Ground to the Front of the bike.​
Conclusion,​
One weekend in the desert after grounding everything, Bike starts faster and smoother and no throttle issues....​
Fascinating and brilliant! :thumbsup:

Part of me is curious if that might help the xlite motors with the starter motors burning out. Those bike seem to either have the problem, or not have the problem i.e. if a starter burns out on a TE310, then the replacement tends to burn out.
 
TE in RC said:
Wow thats interesting. Can you post a link or pics how you ran the ground?​


http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/te511-or-te449-dead-throttle-question.24276/page-3#post-261485


Desertyucca said: ↑
...I installed a new ground from the Battery (-) to the subframe bolt. I used the subframe bolt as my common Point since the Battery terminals are weak. I Needed a good point to connect multiple ground cables from and the subframe bolt was easy choice. Off the Sub Frame Bolt I installed a new ground to the Engine (Where the Coil ground wire connects), installed a New cable to the Throttle Body Bolt and a new Ground to the Front of the bike.​
Conclusion,​
One weekend in the desert after grounding everything, Bike starts faster and smoother and no throttle issues....​
Fascinating and brilliant! :thumbsup:

Part of me is curious if that might help the xlite motors with the starter motors burning out. Those bike seem to either have the problem, or not have the problem i.e. if a starter burns out on a TE310, then the replacement tends to burn out.
Click to expand...


I increased the size of the battery and starter cables to a 8 gage and it helped a lot on my TE449. I am sure it would help the xlite starter but maybe not cure it.
 
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