• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

jack hammer suspension question

T

tadgh

Husqvarna
A Class
rode a H & H today, the course was pretty fast and rocky, lots of braking and acceleration bumps, plus whoops. on one long steep rocky descent the front starter basically acting like a jack hammer, very short sharp bangs through the bars.

is this lack of compression damping? i find with high damping the front deflects a lot of rocks and logs, so is this just a trade off/compromise on my settings?
 
scoobywrx05;21190 said:
Have you had your forks re valved or changed the weight of the fork oil at all??
Click to expand...

no, bone stock forks no changes to the valves or fork oil. it felt like maybe the valve is too small so the oil gets trapped or cant get away fast enough.

not sure how these forks are made so i dont know if that makes sense or not
 
Check the compression and rebound settings. On my 2005 they were all way off and the bike was really stiff. After a few clicks things were much better. They are a lot better after I had the forks and shock modified by a local suspension expert.
 
HuskyD;21209 said:
Check the compression and rebound settings. On my 2005 they were all way off and the bike was really stiff. After a few clicks things were much better. They are a lot better after I had the forks and shock modified by a local suspension expert.
Click to expand...

i have my forks set up on the much softer side of compression and rebound. i found the mid settings way too harsh unless you were hitting big jumps or step downs.

btw i havent experienced this before as i have found them good to date
 
Based on my '05 TE510, I don't think the stock Marzocchi forks are the best for that rocky / sharp edged crap.......good revalve, w/proper springs and set-up do make a world of difference.

That being said, first thing that popped into my head when I read this was excess air pressure.
If you just noticed it or it got worse AFTER really working the suspension hard for quite a while, could be the forks heated up and increased internal air pressure stiffening the fork action.

It helps a little before each ride to raise the front end, open the screws and bleed out the air, then if it seems to get worse or harsh(er) during the ride, you can quickly bleed it again.
(recently had LT Racing completely rework my suspension (very nice now). At the same time, added air bleeders in place of screw.....quick push and I'm done)
 
tadgh;21206 said:
no, bone stock forks no changes to the valves or fork oil. it felt like maybe the valve is too small so the oil gets trapped or cant get away fast enough.

not sure how these forks are made so i dont know if that makes sense or not
Click to expand...
Get your forks re valved,and add some push style air bleeders in place of the screws on the top of the forks. Do you know of any good suspension shops over there to do the re valve???
 
scoobywrx05;21280 said:
Get your forks re valved,and add some push style air bleeders in place of the screws on the top of the forks. Do you know of any good suspension shops over there to do the re valve???
Click to expand...


Yeah, a good suspension shop should be able to address the issues you are talking about. I agree on the air bleeders too.
 
RLW;21219 said:
Based on my '05 TE510, I don't think the stock Marzocchi forks are the best for that rocky / sharp edged crap.......good revalve, w/proper springs and set-up do make a world of difference.

That being said, first thing that popped into my head when I read this was excess air pressure.
If you just noticed it or it got worse AFTER really working the suspension hard for quite a while, could be the forks heated up and increased internal air pressure stiffening the fork action.

It helps a little before each ride to raise the front end, open the screws and bleed out the air, then if it seems to get worse or harsh(er) during the ride, you can quickly bleed it again.
(recently had LT Racing completely rework my suspension (very nice now). At the same time, added air bleeders in place of screw.....quick push and I'm done)
Click to expand...
This is spot on advice.

You should also keep playing with the compression adjusters and go softer a click or two each time and then re-test. First make sure how many clicks you're at so you know where you're starting from. The forks on my 610 were the same way, fine until I hit the quick-hit/square-edge choppy stuff. I think most of the zokes are generally harsh in this stuff and need a re-valve to completely overcome.
Oil weight, oil height, and settings can overcome things up to a point though. Try those first and go to a shop if you can't get them where you want them. Several out there that know how to fix them right.
 
thanks for the replies, i think the air pressure probably did build up in them but after a few laps its hard to tell whether its the forks or your arms getting tired. :D

i might have a look at a revalve but i only tend to keep the bike up to about 100-150 hours (before the first big bang :thumbsup:) then i usually dont bother changing much from stock except what gets broken off.
i wish there was someone here who had it done so i could test ride the set up first. the suspension place here for them would probably be dr shox who set up the BEC and WEC uk husky team i think
 
Anyone know the type of push-button bleeders one should buy if they have the 50mm Marzocchi forks (2009 TE 310 in my case).

I take my bike to altitude (8000ft) and back to sea level a lot. Always worried about losing one of the screws...
 
My '05 TE450 required RaceTech gold valves, new valve stack configuration and 5 WT Silkolene before they got "compliant". After that however- tres smooth and very capable.
 
My question for the forum is how to check fork oil level on an 08 TE610 with the forks on the bike.

I understand the forks should be fully extended and I want to extract some.

When I unscrew the upper caps to about 10 threads showing, they simply seem to spin and not come off the upper tube .
I have risers so I have some clearance between the caps and handlebars.

Thanks all​
 
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