• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

I've been flashed

Now you are scaring me.

I just put the reflashed ECU in my bike and it seems to run better on the bottom. I can blip the throttle from a dead stop at it seems to pull fine. A little weak at mid throttle but it seems better. I'll check the TPS again tonite and reset it.

I have I-beat and am running 100 105 102 cause I do not want to run out of gas.

I rode mine at Sandy Lane in March and had the same problems you did.....exactly. Would not run on the bottom. Stalled it 100 times in the tight.

I put it away and went back to my 2 stoke 125's and 250.

I was gonna trail ride it at Hancock but may race it as my 125 DNF'd at Foggy....to bad cause I was feeling real good leading my minute and passing guys in B-Super. Toasted a main beairng. Had to quit. The trials tire was the shiznit there.

Anyway I think I'll bring the WR250 to Rattlesnake after your comments.

I rode Craig Lifers TE @ STER and it seemed to run real good. He has a Rekluse. No stalling and pulls clean. The jury is out on mine. Let's see.






fury1;110244 said:
stock EFi settings,havent touched it with an I-beat yet,re-flash didnt seem to improve anything anywhere,and i think they made the bike way too much for moto,you cant lug the bike down low at all without covering the clutch and riding like a very pipey 125,if you were in third or fourth gear all the time it doesnt show up as bad,but if you need to drop into first going through a boney section,you have to slip the clutch or it will stall as it has way too tall first gear,if the boney section happens to have a hill and you have no run at it,slipping the clutch so it wont stall,once it breaks traction it goes all over the place,bike flamed out at least a dozen times,very fast into corners brake sliding with the clutch in the bike stalls everytime unless i keep the throttle up which is very tiring,lost my kickstarter,motor mounts loosened up again and got a front flat,the bike has less than 60 hours on it and about 600 miles,two races,ive had it with it and thinking of selling it,i just think the 2009 was 100 times more bulletproof and nothing fell off it and it idled down to nothing without flaming out,worst finish of the year for me,ended up 12th AA with a very high score,and really wanted to quit after every section,very frustrating to go from a great 09 to this bike
Click to expand...
 
I just reset the TPS and took it for a ride. seemed okay but it did stall in my driveway trying to squeeze by my car.

It's like you cannot use the rear brake and modulate the clutch at all....like the rear brake is too strong. Maybe it's related to the fact that the motor stops immediately when you turn it off...it's like it has no flywheel but it does not rev that quickly. like the motor is too tight.

Are the bikes with mileage still that tight?
 
I noticed mine started running better at around 300 miles on it. Prior to that and before the Rekluse it would stall occasionally when entering turns.
 
Just to let everyone know my TXC250 still had some low end issues with the Leo Vince ECU, but after taking it to Keytime Motorsports, Craig found a way to get rid of it. Give him a call if you need help. 608-378-4290
 
ProConcept;110492 said:
Just to let everyone know my TXC250 still had some low end issues with the Leo Vince ECU, but after taking it to Keytime Motorsports, Craig found a way to get rid of it. Give him a call if you need help. 608-378-4290
Click to expand...

I'll do that.

Thanks
 
What we have found going down and back has shifted the situation and losing a gear per say.. different then a normal drop a tooth and life is great.. We race in rocks, maybe bolders are more like it and doing 2 teeth on the rear did best.

Biggest thing with the FI is how abrupt the throttle drops with the clutch in.. And how it reacts with the engine compression braking

But if you watch and listen to alot of fast Fuel injected 4 banger riders they are constantly blipping the throttle during the race..
To maintain the engine above normal idle rpm's..

This I believe is to correct that "flat" spot most are talking about..

Chow, Carl
 
help a newb to the efi

i searched to avoid asking this question, but...

would someone break down the terms, settings, etc. for me, i.e.; what does "co" stand for, "tcu," and any other info related to the mapping process, re-flashing, the whole 9 yards. if you can refer me to a site that would be fine. i was hoping the mikuni ibeat site would unpack it for me, but no go.
 
ECU stands for Electronic Control unit. This is the brain of the bike. It controls iginition timing etc.. The ECU has two maps, 1 is with the O2 sensor in place and the bike is reading the exhaust and tells the bike if it needs to run richer or leaner. The problem with this is the ECU/O2 can't keep up and runs really badly with this set up.

The second map is activated by removing the O2 sensor and installing a plug in the exhaust and something called a Lambda plug in the wires where the O2 sensor wires once were hooked. This is basically a jumper that tells the ECU to go to the "race" map. This is the map with the most performance and most all dealers don't let the bikes leave without this.

With a bike with a Carb and you want to tune the jetting you have a pilot, needle, and a main jet. CO settings do pretty much the same thing. CO1, CO2, CO3. CO1 changes the lower throttle, CO2 does the mid, CO 3 does the top. If you change C01 to 105, this will be 5% richer. If you change C01 to a 90 then it would be 10% leaner. You are trying to get the bike to use as much fuel as it needs and not be too rich at the same time.

There is also something called a FB1,2,3 setting but this is done with the O2 sensor in place and the weak running map. You really do not have to worry about that but basically this is done with Ibeat and you tune this while the bike runs on a screen and you are trying to get it to stay at 100%. The problem with this is the O2 sensor reads kind of slow, at least that is my opinion.

TPS stands for Throttle Position Sensor. This is done using Ibeat and you are making sure the bike's computer knows what position the throttle butterfly is at all times. Re-setting the TPS is just making sure that 0 is 0. You may see someone say there TPS is at 947, and this is a voltage reading that the bike's computer knows where the plate is sitting.

The re-flash is really about the 2010 TE/TXC 250's race maps at this time. Basically Husky screwed up with settings when these bikes were released and the maps were off a little on the bottom causing a stumble that I for one could not get out from changing the CO settings. Some bikes ran better than others with Stock maps and later Vin (Vehicle Identification Number) numbers came with the updated map. You may notice other brands have maps you can download, mikuni's can't be altered besides being re-flashed.

If you have Ibeat there is a user manual that helps a lot. It may be small enough that I can e-mail it to you. P.M. me with a e-mail and I will try to send it to you. Sure I missed something so feel free to ask away.
 
raisrx251;114772 said:
ECU stands for Electronic Control unit. This is the brain of the bike. It controls iginition timing etc.. The ECU has two maps, 1 is with the O2 sensor in place and the bike is reading the exhaust and tells the bike if it needs to run richer or leaner. The problem with this is the ECU/O2 can't keep up and runs really badly with this set up.

The second map is activated by removing the O2 sensor and installing a plug in the exhaust and something called a Lambda plug in the wires where the O2 sensor wires once were hooked. This is basically a jumper that tells the ECU to go to the "race" map. This is the map with the most performance and most all dealers don't let the bikes leave without this.

With a bike with a Carb and you want to tune the jetting you have a pilot, needle, and a main jet. CO settings do pretty much the same thing. CO1, CO2, CO3. CO1 changes the lower throttle, CO2 does the mid, CO 3 does the top. If you change C01 to 105, this will be 5% richer. If you change C01 to a 90 then it would be 10% leaner. You are trying to get the bike to use as much fuel as it needs and not be too rich at the same time.

There is also something called a FB1,2,3 setting but this is done with the O2 sensor in place and the weak running map. You really do not have to worry about that but basically this is done with Ibeat and you tune this while the bike runs on a screen and you are trying to get it to stay at 100%. The problem with this is the O2 sensor reads kind of slow, at least that is my opinion.

TPS stands for Throttle Position Sensor. This is done using Ibeat and you are making sure the bike's computer knows what position the throttle butterfly is at all times. Re-setting the TPS is just making sure that 0 is 0. You may see someone say there TPS is at 947, and this is a voltage reading that the bike's computer knows where the plate is sitting.

The re-flash is really about the 2010 TE/TXC 250's race maps at this time. Basically Husky screwed up with settings when these bikes were released and the maps were off a little on the bottom causing a stumble that I for one could not get out from changing the CO settings. Some bikes ran better than others with Stock maps and later Vin (Vehicle Identification Number) numbers came with the updated map. You may notice other brands have maps you can download, mikuni's can't be altered besides being re-flashed.

If you have Ibeat there is a user manual that helps a lot. It may be small enough that I can e-mail it to you. P.M. me with a e-mail and I will try to send it to you. Sure I missed something so feel free to ask away.
Click to expand...

Good explanation, raisx251.

Guys, bike to bike settings may/may not be equivalent adjustments. My broken in '10 250 may not operate optimally with some one else's CO 123 settings. I've found that to be a fact. iBeat is somewhat of a best friend to tweak yer bike to its happiness level regardless of altitude and riding style.
 
help from a virginian... my home state! thanks for laying all that out, well put.

are "co" and "fb" acronyms? if so, do you know what they stand for?

i prolly should have id'd what i ride: 2010 te250, converted to race mode, 13-52 sprockets, ti exhaust from a tc250, turn tech 2.5 amp hr battery. other mods are cosmetic or armor.

my te is a victim of the poor off idle performance. my other 2 bikes, ktm 200 and 450 have that missing response, and i knew the husky was capable of it, so i'm hoping to experience it soon.

i've burnt a clutch already needing to keep it wrapped up and work the clutch on long climbs. 85 miles into a 100 miler we do is 1,800 feet of elevation gain in 1.4 miles with 30 switchbacks... i think that pushed the clutch over the edge. the worst plate jettisoned 7 of it's fiber segments. that's the hardest sustained section in that ride, but the rest is challenging too.

a 12 tooth countershaft i ordered from malcolm smith arrived today, but i'm waiting to get reflashed before making any other changes. my dealer believes the 13 tooth will be fine after the reflash.

looks like i need to send semco some money for the tuning software and cable... my dealer is 75 miles away.
 
Steam, chill for a moment. The info is out there, just have to wait for it or get it yourself if you've got iBeat capability.

Virginian or .......there is a solution most likely hiding in this forum. It may lie amongst some Yankee or dreaded western informational channels......

I've found some damned good info from the right and left coast in my short time with Husqvarna. Hell, the UK and AU have helped us/each other out just as much....
 
Spoke with Justin of Trooper Lu's Garage and they possibly have a fix for the off idle bog. Colo Moto knows him and might ask Justin what he has done to correct the issue.
 
FB I am pretty sure stands for feedback, I can't find what CO stands for now. All that really matters is you use the CO settings when the Lambda plug is in place of the O2 sensor wires.

The poor off idle issue is only fixed with either the ECU that comes with the Leo Vince pipe in the hard parts catalog or the re-flashing of your existing ECU. I am pretty sure that Husky does not have that many re-flash kits to go around. You may want to check with ScottyR who can re-flash them as well.

I know what you mean about using the clutch. Before my bike was fixed, in the technical off camber stuff I was constantly keeping two fingers on the clutch. I have to say I am pretty happy with the bike now.
 
raisrx251,

thanks once again for some solid info.

friday i had a very productive telephone conversation with bryon at bill's moto plus in salem, oregon. my impression is they fully understand the reflash process, software, and it's idiosyncracies.

you are correct... there are a limited number of reflash kits to go around, and they make their way from shop to shop.
 
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