• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Italian 2 stroke Shark Fins

Huskynoobee

CH Sponsor ZipTy Racing
Staff member
Thanks to an inquiry by one of our CH folks, I asked about the left side brake 2 stroke Italian CR/WR Shark Fins whilst at ZIP-TY HQ. Ty said there should be some left, so we went and found them. Here's a pic I shot of one the other day.

These will work on any of the 2 strokes with 25mm axles.
20170327_164355.jpg
 
This Shark Fin is not just for protection, this is a major brake upgrade for your Italian Stallion. This unit allows you to use the larger rear rotor from later 4 stroke bikes for increased power and no fade. As you can see these take a lot of abuse on my WR250.
20170329_082317.jpg
 
Here's the deal. The part# is SF129 and the price is $130.00. Don't forget your Cafe Husky member discount code.

You will need to order this brake rotor from Bills or Halls along with the special bolts - your stock rotor bolts will not work with this rotor.
20170329_082502.jpg
The part # is 8A00H4977 and is for 250/310 and 449/511 Husqvarna 4 strokes.
 
If the 2 stroke rotors have a floating design like the 4 strokes, you will need to add a thin washer between the rotor and the hub to center the rotor. Otherwise your new rotor will rub the caliper. I ran into that a few months ago when I changed my rotors from the stock ones on my 510. Nice find on the shark fins.
 
If the 2 stroke rotors have a floating design like the 4 strokes, you will need to add a thin washer between the rotor and the hub to center the rotor. Otherwise your new rotor will rub the caliper. I ran into that a few months ago when I changed my rotors from the stock ones on my 510. Nice find on the shark fins.

hey 268fords (this is scott, I'm the guy who told you about the redheads using "Braking" wave rotors):

I always kinda wondered about the thin washer/shim thing....
are you sure your caliper halves are free to move? 'cause I would've guessed that your old floating rotor and the new wave rotor would have had the same center- No?

I mean, I agree- the piston is moving; but the other half of the caliper should also be able to move too (and find the center).

make sure both components are free to move. lube the caliper pins. you may be able to take the washers out now.

let us know what is what.
 
The 2 strokes don't have this problem. Bolt it up and rip! FWIW, I run a 19" 2012 CR 125 rear on my 449 to take advantage of some of the excellent tires such as the Dunlop MX52. The rotor is a direct fit with no mods.
 
hey 268fords (this is scott, I'm the guy who told you about the redheads using "Braking" wave rotors):

I always kinda wondered about the thin washer/shim thing....
are you sure your caliper halves are free to move? 'cause I would've guessed that your old floating rotor and the new wave rotor would have had the same center- No?

I mean, I agree- the piston is moving; but the other half of the caliper should also be able to move too (and find the center).

make sure both components are free to move. lube the caliper pins. you may be able to take the washers out now.

let us know what is what.
The caliper moves perfectly. The problem I encountered was the new bolts made the disk sit flush against the hub, vs being spaced off of it with the old floating mounts. The rotor was rubbing the inside of the caliper more than the outside. You could push the caliper over, but it wanted to move back to center.
IMG_0332.JPG this is the old rotor. You can see that it doesn't allow the rotor to mount against the hub. It keeps it off of it around 1/16".
IMG_0330.JPG this is the new rotor spaced out to match the original.
IMG_0333.JPG side by side
Spinning the tire by hand without the washers installed was creating a drag. If I pushed on the caliper, it wouldn't drag. The rotors have the same center, just the way it mounted was slightly different.IMG_0334.JPG
 
The caliper moves perfectly. The problem I encountered was the new bolts made the disk sit flush against the hub, vs being spaced off of it with the old floating mounts. The rotor was rubbing the inside of the caliper more than the outside. You could push the caliper over, but it wanted to move back to center.
View attachment 77938 this is the old rotor. You can see that it doesn't allow the rotor to mount against the hub. It keeps it off of it around 1/16".
View attachment 77939 this is the new rotor spaced out to match the original.
View attachment 77940 side by side
Spinning the tire by hand without the washers installed was creating a drag. If I pushed on the caliper, it wouldn't drag. The rotors have the same center, just the way it mounted was slightly different.View attachment 77948

Good pictures. thanks.

yeah, my wave rotor sits flush on the hub too. I wonder if our hubs are different? ...or maybe the calipers are not the same? When you pushed to caliper inboard, what do you think it was forcing it back out (1/16")?

And nice fat pads you got there too- should last you a while.

thanks for the detailed report.
 
I'm not sure what was bringing the caliper back out. It just had this sweet spot where it wanted to be at. I'm not sure if husky changed the hubs or not before the end of the italians.
 
I can assure you that they work If I can win 2 National # 1 AMA Hare and Hounds and be a 5 time KOM and 7 Time LDS racer and never hurt my fin Then you know it works As for Huskynobee picture that is the one on my old bike and it is still working great
 
When I would race my WR it had the small brake I would over heat it to the point of no brakes So going to the Zip Ty Shark fin let me run the bigger rotor which is the same as all the other Husky Never had a problem again It is a bolt on deal well worth the money
 
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