• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

All 2st It lives!

Good to know, at the moment they are both set at dead middle. Not expecting too much from the stockers but will play with the settings along the way. I'm stoked to finally know what all the fuss about these 360 motors is about. Great low-end lugging, you can practically motor along on idle. Mine also has quite a hit once on pipe which if I'm being honest is why I prefer 2-strokes.

The 312 is a nice unit I'm realizing, and yes, I do believe it came stock. The PO made no mention of swapping it. The more I dig into this early-ish Italian Husky the more I'm realizing how well made it is and the nice design/engineering details it features.
 
Thanks for that. After logging a decent amount of starting practice the past few days I've adopted the technique you've posted, seems to work well. Definitely a bit of a ritual to starting these I'm learning. As previously mentioned countless times a lectron would surely help the cause...someday.
 
the only time mine ever kicks back is when i dont kick it hard enough..mikuni or lectron. starting is the same with both..for me
 
Smashed my knee into bars on more than one occasion on 02 360, timings not changed an thats with big boy kicking ;)
 
Fit up an auto de-compressor system and it will be
like starting a 80cc. I have one fitted to my '96 360 and '10 300. The closest thing to electric start you can get.
 
Ive got a head with de comp in it, its not compression thats the issue.
Sometimes she just hungers for knees.
 
It just occurred to me after reading a few threads regarding flywheel installation: Should I have used lapping compound on the flywheel? Neither the powerdynamo manual nor husky manual make a mention of it. I torqued the flywheel to spec and am not experiencing any issues but I haven't had the chance to really put the bike through it's paces. The powerdynamo ignition is similar to the PVL in the respect that it forgoes the use of a woodruff key to set timing. I understand that the key's purpose is only to set timing and not prevent the flywheel from spinning. Would like to hear the opinions of you more experienced, knowledgeable folks on the subject?
 
If your not using the woodruff key lap it in.
Personally ive never lapped my flywheel in, I've yet to have a problem.

I would want as much surface area contact as possible if your keyless.
 
what difference would the key make? it supports no weight..if it does it shears.

wouldnt hurt taking it off and doing it, checking your torque you did last time and setting timing again. all good practice i suppose!
off course on the air cooled ones we have no head gasket, and the heads are lapped too!

it will likely be fine if your crank stub is excellent and you have it torqued properly, but i try to prep for reliability!
 
Agreed, I guess it's one of those better safe than sorry situations. The condition of the crank taper looked fine and I torqued it per manual spec but as you mentioned it's valuable practice. In addition I'll sleep soundly at night. Thanks once again for the advice guys.
 
The key justin holds the flywheel located while you hang on the nut!
So you can really hang on the nut.

So probably dont need to lap it in.
But no key lap it in, how do you keep the crank and flywheel located when your tightening it up as you hold the flywheel and rotate the nut...?
 
From the Powerdynamo installation manual: "Take the woodruff key from the crank. You will not need it anymore. Please do not forget to do so, otherwise you will have trouble later on in the assembly. This woodruff key does not hold the rotor on the shaft, this is done by the cone. It simply guides to the correct setting which will now be otherwise achieved."

Regarding holding the flywheel while torqueing the nut. I set the piston to 1mm BTDC (factory timing), then aligned the timing mark on the stator plate with the timing mark on the rotor. I pressed the rotor on the taper with a good bit of force to seat it, I used a rotor holder to keep the rotor in place while torqueing the nut down to 60ft/lb. I then reconfirmed the piston position and timing mark alignment to ensure the rotor hadn't rotated on the crank. All was kosher dill pickle. However, I do agree that it won't hurt anything to lap it in and plan on doing so.
 
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