• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

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Is The 2013 Te310r Really A Red-headed Step Child?

Sunday247

Husqvarna
B Class
Hi Husky Cafe!

I enjoy having the quirky. The odd. The hard-to-find. When I decided to take my moto-career from mainly street riding with some track days to join the plethora of Texas buddies on dirt, i started with your generic Hondas. Because I don't ride all the time, the KTMs newer, fuel injected options from 250, 350 and up over 450s really piqued my interest. It also made me feel broke!

I searched and found a sweet 2013 Husky TE310R. Pretty much stock from what I have found - wheels, exhaust, suspension, etc. (maybe the infamous air filter cage has been removed?!)

I jump on and ride. Wait - i need a skid plate. Then it's time for an oil change - looks like a small leak near a gasket. Time to call the dealer..... aaand they don't have parts?!

Ordered a skid plate - either website was wrong, or this thing doesn't bolt up at all.

Looking for an exhaust/map/mods that people tend to do on this bike. Looks like if I had it around 2013, i might have options, but today, i can't find a basic skidplate.

What do people do with these machines when they can't find some of the basics? Is there any support for these machines in your local areas - I'm in Dallas, Texas and thought i had access to most everything when it comes to accessibility of parts.

I want to enjoy it, but i dont want to have a leaking paperweight in a few years. Thoughts? Advice? Support? Free skid plate (ok, maybe that was a bit much, but it doesnt hurt to ask, right? =)
 

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Hi Husky Cafe!

I enjoy having the quirky. The odd. The hard-to-find. When I decided to take my moto-career from mainly street riding with some track days to join the plethora of Texas buddies on dirt, i started with your generic Hondas. Because I don't ride all the time, the KTMs newer, fuel injected options from 250, 350 and up over 450s really piqued my interest. It also made me feel broke!

I searched and found a sweet 2013 Husky TE310R. Pretty much stock from what I have found - wheels, exhaust, suspension, etc. (maybe the infamous air filter cage has been removed?!)

I jump on and ride. Wait - i need a skid plate. Then it's time for an oil change - looks like a small leak near a gasket. Time to call the dealer..... aaand they don't have parts?!

Ordered a skid plate - either website was wrong, or this thing doesn't bolt up at all.

Looking for an exhaust/map/mods that people tend to do on this bike. Looks like if I had it around 2013, i might have options, but today, i can't find a basic skidplate.

What do people do with these machines when they can't find some of the basics? Is there any support for these machines in your local areas - I'm in Dallas, Texas and thought i had access to most everything when it comes to accessibility of parts.

I want to enjoy it, but i dont want to have a leaking paperweight in a few years. Thoughts? Advice? Support? Free skid plate (ok, maybe that was a bit much, but it doesnt hurt to ask, right? =)

All is good my friend. Let me offer some help. I started working on my 2013 TE310R last summer and just about finished. The only parts I didn't change are the frame and engine.
It turned out great. I kept all the many receipts and can send you copies. I had to search for hours and used TE310 or TXC310 in the search. Let me know what you want and I might be able to send you the link. Some parts came from Austria, Italy, Netherlands and Australia
I am waiting on one final part from Italy and I will Post the finished Bike.
 

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All is good my friend. Let me offer some help. I started working on my 2013 TE310R last summer and just about finished. The only parts I didn't change are the frame and engine.
It turned out great. I kept all the many receipts and can send you copies. I had to search for hours and used TE310 or TXC310 in the search. Let me know what you want and I might be able to send you the link. Some parts came from Austria, Italy, Netherlands and Australia
I am waiting on one final part from Italy and I will Post the finished Bike.

You have already began a rebuild battle :D
Here in Europe there are no problems for parts, it' s all still avaliable by Husqvarna-ktm dealership. I think you can also buy from spanish site greenlandmx that ships worlwide and has all the spare parts you need with "live" interactive spare parts manual
 
Fantastic news, guys! Thanks for the responses.

Another Texan purchased a 2013 TE310R about the same time I did :cheers:

I purchased a skidplate from Hyde Racing, and according to the description it was compatible for the TE310 up to 2012. No other options for the TE, and I felt confident in my research after a few sites mentioned the 2012 parts would work in some instances. After receiving it and seeing it didn't mount up at all, I emailed and called the company to ask for a refund and the communication with the guy who was helping just stopped. He suggested purchasing another one despite the website saying it wasn't compatible for the TE or TX, so i didn't want to buy another one that wouldn't work (timeline for return had past but this skidplate is still in the box).

I plan on taking it up to the nearest dealer (when on the phone the guy acted like he couldn't locate the model in his system, and when he did get some type of verification he mentioned he didn't have a parts list for this model) but was debating on trading it in =/ I'm sure we're all aware of those orange things that demand first born children as payment.

If I'm able to maintain this bike on my own, I would like to see about keeping it in the stable for a while. I have some needs, and some wants that I can list to help narrow down what has been tough for me to locate. At first, Cafe Husky was down, so I am catching up on as much as I can, using the search engine now that I have an account on here has been great. Most posts seemed so old, not sure what is still available.

NEEDS:
-Gasket set (dealer should be able to track this down, he suggested bringing the bike in and they can verify what they have that will work)
-Skidplate (a need because, well, as i mentioned, I'm still a rookie on the dirt, but my throttle wrist doesn't think so)
-Lithium Battery (I put Shorai batteries in all my bikes, ordered one and hope this will help the hit-or-miss starting button)
-Potentially a starter, or worm gear maybe? Hoping the battery fixes most starting issues, but I've seen it's an issue.
-Potentially a sprocket, I plan on getting a second wheel set with street tires.
-Cold and Hot start issues have been experienced, and when I get the battery this week I plan on testing thoroughly this weekend. I hope to not be searching for solutions related to anything starting, but we'll see.

WANTS:
-exhaust options? i have a stock can and was looking for options vs value, but can't find options to start other than eBay. What are some name brands that may be familiar for the Euro-bike?
-parts list (i am usually able to track down a microfiche of the parts for the bikes/vehicles I have, but haven't been able to find this for the 2013 Husky)
 
Get a plate about 300x500x5mm of HD1000 plastic. Will not cost you much. Mayby extend that to lenght 600. I dont have the exact measures in mind. Out of that you will easy make a perfect skid with the help of a heating gun. An ape will do that job. Thats why I can :).
 
I have a 2013 Txc310r and have found 99 percent of parts at motosport.com. They have an oem parts finder. Your factory skid plate is in stock for 20 bucks. You'll need the bolt and bushing as well which are also in stock.
 
Fantastic news, guys! Thanks for the responses.

Another Texan purchased a 2013 TE310R about the same time I did :cheers:

I purchased a skidplate from Hyde Racing, and according to the description it was compatible for the TE310 up to 2012. No other options for the TE, and I felt confident in my research after a few sites mentioned the 2012 parts would work in some instances. After receiving it and seeing it didn't mount up at all, I emailed and called the company to ask for a refund and the communication with the guy who was helping just stopped. He suggested purchasing another one despite the website saying it wasn't compatible for the TE or TX, so i didn't want to buy another one that wouldn't work (timeline for return had past but this skidplate is still in the box).

I plan on taking it up to the nearest dealer (when on the phone the guy acted like he couldn't locate the model in his system, and when he did get some type of verification he mentioned he didn't have a parts list for this model) but was debating on trading it in =/ I'm sure we're all aware of those orange things that demand first born children as payment.

If I'm able to maintain this bike on my own, I would like to see about keeping it in the stable for a while. I have some needs, and some wants that I can list to help narrow down what has been tough for me to locate. At first, Cafe Husky was down, so I am catching up on as much as I can, using the search engine now that I have an account on here has been great. Most posts seemed so old, not sure what is still available.

NEEDS:
-Gasket set (dealer should be able to track this down, he suggested bringing the bike in and they can verify what they have that will work)
-Skidplate (a need because, well, as i mentioned, I'm still a rookie on the dirt, but my throttle wrist doesn't think so)
-Lithium Battery (I put Shorai batteries in all my bikes, ordered one and hope this will help the hit-or-miss starting button)
-Potentially a starter, or worm gear maybe? Hoping the battery fixes most starting issues, but I've seen it's an issue.
-Potentially a sprocket, I plan on getting a second wheel set with street tires.
-Cold and Hot start issues have been experienced, and when I get the battery this week I plan on testing thoroughly this weekend. I hope to not be searching for solutions related to anything starting, but we'll see.

WANTS:
-exhaust options? i have a stock can and was looking for options vs value, but can't find options to start other than eBay. What are some name brands that may be familiar for the Euro-bike?
-parts list (i am usually able to track down a microfiche of the parts for the bikes/vehicles I have, but haven't been able to find this for the 2013 Husky)

This link has the microfiche http://docs.husqvarnaoutlet.com.cdn.wavenetworks.com/parts fiche/2013 TC-TE-TXC 250-310 Parts.pdf
You can have my FMF slip on for $250.00 when my exaust system arrives. Its like new, has a spark arrestor. It too loud for my friends in New Mexico. I just need to make sure the new one fits. Should be here next week.
Gasket set https://www.ebay.com/itm/HUSQVARNA-...ash=item2adfcd2f3a:g:ww8AAOSw7PNeKsmV&vxp=mtr
I like this site for sprockets https://sprocketcenter.com/off-road...ear-off-road-sprocket-sl14206r-husqvarna.html
Moose racing skid plate. Found this link but also sold on other sites https://www.solomotoparts.com/Moose-Skid-Plate-for-TE-310R-12-13/
I have a second set of wheels that are stock parts. I ordered through motosport and took for ever. Some links on cafe husky will help you find wheels.
I have thought about removing the starter because of the issues but so far its working fine.
 
Thanks for the insight guys - I'm getting more and more things squared away now. Good to know that my 2013 has a pretty early VIN - 000076.

I've got the lithium battery hooked up, and I still can't push-start it. Tried the button short press to prime and another press to start and it worked the first time the battery was plugged in, but hasn't worked since. Spent a good amount of time on her this weekend and didn't successfully get the push start to work once. She cranked a bit easier, BUT every now and then the kickstarter was almost impossible to kick - my buddy suggested the noise it was making during these kick attempts made it sound like the starter was still engaged. After trying the push button (despite no luck) it seemed to work itself back into place and I could successfully kick start it.

After spending some time with her this past weekend, I experienced another issue that I didn't mention earlier. When I get to temperature and have been riding for a decent amount of time, my clutch will completely go out - no pressure, no engagement, etc. Now, if i pump the clutch lever a few times, i get function back and I catch myself pumping the clutch the entire time back to my truck to park it and let it cool off. I've done my fair share of brake jobs, and was expecting to see a low fuel level when I removed the cover but it was completely full. This has happened to me only when riding for a decent amount of time (a few hours, and in temperatures over the past few months - nothing extreme).

I've got an oil leak I need to track down still, and will be taking her up to the nearest dealer this week to get a few things looked at (and maybe get trade-in value for a newer one=)

@Motorcycle Ron - your bike looks great! I love when the bike is running right - she is a blast and is light enough to trail ride while having all the capabilities of a dual sport. Loving this side of 2-wheeling.

@brentk660 - not sure how i didn't find motosport's website before. I see the parts microfiche and it's pretty easy to use. I'm usually a Honda/Ford kinda guy, so seeing a starter is $600 is scary. Almost wish i didn't find it now! Thanks for sharing this. Already built a hefty cart, you should ask them for commission!

@johnrg - Hyde's contact suggested a different model and I almost pulled the trigger on buying that one, but wasn't completely sure. I've sent over an image of mine with the info I've heard from you guys - hopefully i can get this squared away. I do like the black look - not sure how clean white will look after a few miles the way I ride (rubber side isn't staying down the whole time for me just yet). :excuseme:
 
Thanks for the insight guys - I'm getting more and more things squared away now. Good to know that my 2013 has a pretty early VIN - 000076.

I've got the lithium battery hooked up, and I still can't push-start it. Tried the button short press to prime and another press to start and it worked the first time the battery was plugged in, but hasn't worked since. Spent a good amount of time on her this weekend and didn't successfully get the push start to work once. She cranked a bit easier, BUT every now and then the kickstarter was almost impossible to kick - my buddy suggested the noise it was making during these kick attempts made it sound like the starter was still engaged. After trying the push button (despite no luck) it seemed to work itself back into place and I could successfully kick start it.

Faulty starter one way bearing

After spending some time with her this past weekend, I experienced another issue that I didn't mention earlier. When I get to temperature and have been riding for a decent amount of time, my clutch will completely go out - no pressure, no engagement, etc. Now, if i pump the clutch lever a few times, i get function back and I catch myself pumping the clutch the entire time back to my truck to park it and let it cool off. I've done my fair share of brake jobs, and was expecting to see a low fuel level when I removed the cover but it was completely full. This has happened to me only when riding for a decent amount of time (a few hours, and in temperatures over the past few months - nothing extreme).

First try to bleed your clutch and change its oil with fresh dot4 so you have a starting point
 
Well, I took it up to my local husky dealer and they don't have any access to an service bulletins, and they don't have a single service record available for this VIN.

The service tech spent some time reviewing and called a Husky contact but suggested I take to BMW to investigate further as they may have some access to the service bulletin I've found on the forum (ASB-013-020, IIRC). I didnt set my hopes high, but confirmed access to the parts I may be needing (starter part#s found on image in another post). Not sure if I should push by contacting Husky instead of BMW, especially if my husky dealer has access to the replacement parts?

In regards to the clutch, I did discover some posts about this potentially being old fluid and was going to replace when I get the bike back in a few days. Definitely looking into rerouting the braided line and putting some heat shield on the exhaust maybe?

Anyway, I'm getting the inspection done and asking them to hunt down a oil drain plug as mine is virtually stripped and needs replaced, as well as quoting the gaskets needed as I have a leak - he couldn't find them but was able to find the starter parts. I hope we can track parts down, but curious if I'm going to get any help from Husky, fingers-crossed.
 
Sunday 747. You may be dealing with the non hardened starter gears or may not be that but the decompressor. First consider that most of all the early '13s, mine is one, had to tighten the left exhaust shim clearance to the tight end of spec if not slightly more, to get the decompressor working. That is evidenced also by you being unable to kick start. Just cannot overcome the compression. You could test your gears by pulling the spark plug and trying to kick or use the starter. Do not keep using the starter or you will burn it out. If you get the engine past TDC it may spin up fine but if it stops just before tdc, it may click and no budge. Those were all my symptoms. I did have the gears done under warranty as well, but my issue was same as yours... Locked up and not easy to kick. Sorting the decompressor with a valve adjust was the solution. LI battery helps get it past tdc but not the complete solution. Once sorted should not be a problem again.

The clutch is most likely the seals on your clutch slave. Happened to me a few times. Pumps up after 30 seconds or so but fails in use again. If riding the flats may never be an issue but hot mountain work it will happen again.
 
I'd like to attempt to get this bike completely squared away, so if I'm going to get the valves checked, i will probably go ahead and get the starter parts put in, as well. I may contact Husky NA corporate to see what they suggest as I don't think taking this Husky to a BMW dealership is going to get me anywhere. Haven't seen that mentioned once while I researched the service bulletin/warranty that Husky offered.

As I plan on taking this guy on more trail rides, i fear the clutch overheating issue will return despite new fluid and trying to reroute the braided cable (are braided cables standard or might these be aftermarket?). I'll look into the clutch slave gasket/seal as well. I've got the service team hunting down a few items, I will add that to the list.

I'm also planning a trip to Colorado later this year and don't want to be that guy holding up the pack because my clutch keeps failing. Almost got sold on a 2016 XCF-W with a street kit, and I'm still debating what to take to Colorado if my Husky gives me issues on my next short adventure.
 
If you read up on clutch seals, sometimes the bore is scored, so new seals is only a temporary fix. These guys are supposed to be the best slave replacement option. This is the UK site, not sure if you buy from a US distributor or just order direct. http://www.oberon-performance.co.uk/acatalog/Husqvarna.html


@Eoin, this isn't available for the TE310 according to their website. Am i missing something here? I would like to know about a good slave replacement option, if ther are any available for this bike.

Sunday 747. You may be dealing with the non hardened starter gears or may not be that but the decompressor. First consider that most of all the early '13s, mine is one, had to tighten the left exhaust shim clearance to the tight end of spec if not slightly more, to get the decompressor working. That is evidenced also by you being unable to kick start. Just cannot overcome the compression. You could test your gears by pulling the spark plug and trying to kick or use the starter. Do not keep using the starter or you will burn it out. If you get the engine past TDC it may spin up fine but if it stops just before tdc, it may click and no budge. Those were all my symptoms. I did have the gears done under warranty as well, but my issue was same as yours... Locked up and not easy to kick. Sorting the decompressor with a valve adjust was the solution. LI battery helps get it past tdc but not the complete solution. Once sorted should not be a problem again.

The clutch is most likely the seals on your clutch slave. Happened to me a few times. Pumps up after 30 seconds or so but fails in use again. If riding the flats may never be an issue but hot mountain work it will happen again.


@Johnrg, thanks for the insight, i was able to get the shop to quote the starter replacement ($800+) and I opted to start with the valve adjustment and other bits as I was already spending a good amount on basic items mentioned above. I was hoping this would square things away, but so far it's push-started once. It does kick easier, though, almost effortless, so i feel I made progress in the right direction at least. I will probably get the starter job done when I've got a grand burning in my pocket. In the meantime, I'll be cutting my teeth on these Twinduro tires during my 'essential' trips. When I clean out the garage, I'll get some updated pics. Still not going to compete with your beast, but she's a good runner now.


Faulty starter one way bearing

First try to bleed your clutch and change its oil with fresh dot4 so you have a starting point


@Giack - next up are fluid flushes: clutch, brake and radiator. It didn't seem like i could reroute the clutch line at all, but maybe some exhaust wrap around just this section? Anyone have any luck with that? I have experienced this a few times and don't want to be without a clutch no matter where I'm riding.


Any other tips to help keep the clutch fluid cool?
 
My clutch line is ZIP Tied to the grounding cable next to the throttle body close to the exhaust. Make sure the clutch line is as far as possible from the exhaust and the cylinder. I also notice the clutch cable routes next to the radiator, make sure its not in direct contact. That insulating tape might help.
 

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@Eoin, this isn't available for the TE310 according to their website. Am i missing something here? I would like to know about a good slave replacement option, if ther are any available for this bike.




@Johnrg, thanks for the insight, i was able to get the shop to quote the starter replacement ($800+) and I opted to start with the valve adjustment and other bits as I was already spending a good amount on basic items mentioned above. I was hoping this would square things away, but so far it's push-started once. It does kick easier, though, almost effortless, so i feel I made progress in the right direction at least. I will probably get the starter job done when I've got a grand burning in my pocket. In the meantime, I'll be cutting my teeth on these Twinduro tires during my 'essential' trips. When I clean out the garage, I'll get some updated pics. Still not going to compete with your beast, but she's a good runner now.





@Giack - next up are fluid flushes: clutch, brake and radiator. It didn't seem like i could reroute the clutch line at all, but maybe some exhaust wrap around just this section? Anyone have any luck with that? I have experienced this a few times and don't want to be without a clutch no matter where I'm riding.


Any other tips to help keep the clutch fluid cool?

I see, up to 2011and then 2016 on. Maybe email them?
 
@Giack - next up are fluid flushes: clutch, brake and radiator. It didn't seem like i could reroute the clutch line at all, but maybe some exhaust wrap around just this section? Anyone have any luck with that? I have experienced this a few times and don't want to be without a clutch no matter where I'm riding.


Any other tips to help keep the clutch fluid cool?
For insulating the clutch cable as well as the other two electrical cables I've used the piece of rubber pipe left from the cut of the oil sump recirculation line for the installation of the drain back kit. You can use also silicon tube, the important thing is that it wraps everithing and is heat resistant
 

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For insulating the clutch cable as well as the other two electrical cables I've used the piece of rubber pipe left from the cut of the oil sump recirculation line for the installation of the drain back kit. You can use also silicon tube, the important thing is that it wraps everithing and is heat resistant

While on a ride when the outside temperature was 87 the gas started boiling in my IMS 3 GL tank. I found some adhesive insulation that is made for gas tank heat shield. Looks good so will get it soon.
 
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