• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

is my motoplate kinda fried?

troy deck

troy deck

Husqvarna
Pro Class
ok guys this is what its doing it back kicks hard halls said the timing on this [87 250 WR] is .5mm btdc I have the right tools to do all this right when i started this deal 4years ago [i no shame on me] i did a lot of checking and question asking all i got was :excuseme: all outside indications are it should be firing at .5mm and start /run just fine but kicking it you'd think the fire was flying way way before .5mm the bike will start and seems to run fine something not right i had to elongate the holes in the stator plate to get to .5 mm IDK WTH HELP before it takes my leg off
 
troy deck said:
ok guys this is what its doing it back kicks hard halls said the timing on this [87 250 WR] is .5mm btdc I have the right tools to do all this right when i started this deal 4years ago [i no shame on me] i did a lot of checking and question asking all i got was :excuseme: all outside indications are it should be firing at .5mm and start /run just fine but kicking it you'd think the fire was flying way way before .5mm the bike will start and seems to run fine something not right i had to elongate the holes in the stator plate to get to .5 mm IDK WTH HELP before it takes my leg off
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Check the part # to be sure you have the correct backing plate. I broke the cases on my 87 250wr a few years back, because of the timing set wrong by me. I bought the bike brand new and had the stator sent in for repairs by local dealer in the early 90's. I tried to set the timing several times with a dial indicator but could never get the .49mm. I rode it like that for years with back kick and running in reverse (backwards). Ended up having the wrong backing plate.
 
OK THAT SOUNDS PLAUSIBLE YOU GOT THE P/N? I GUESS I COULD HAVE THE SAME DEAL FAR AS I KNOW THIS BIKE AS ALWAYS BEEN THIS WAY IT HASN'T ALWAYS BEEN MINE BUT I'V KNOWN THE BIKE SINCE IT WAS IN THE CRATE
 
Pretty sure the kick back is because the timing is too far advanced, my 86 would sometimes run backwards on start up, because of this.
 
troy, i have same setup and actually run closer to .65mm with a motoplat altho i originally had a sem. mine has had a plat for years, the sem was doing the run backwards dance very early in the bikes life.

do you have a dial indicator for plug hole? this is how mines timed..you probably know but theres the three very outer screws where it all bolts to the case, but also 3 small screws where the plat bolts to the adapter plate

i can walk you thru it buddy! lets get it done! mine lights easily with the motoplat, sitting on bike, kicking with left leg. something has got to be wrong. a kickback is rare on mine.
 
troy deck said:
OK THAT SOUNDS PLAUSIBLE YOU GOT THE P/N? I GUESS I COULD HAVE THE SAME DEAL FAR AS I KNOW THIS BIKE AS ALWAYS BEEN THIS WAY IT HASN'T ALWAYS BEEN MINE BUT I'V KNOWN THE BIKE SINCE IT WAS IN THE CRATE
Click to expand...


I had both adjustments (stator and plate) turned as far they would go and could not even get close. Changed it out from the donor and problem solved had plenty of adjustment. Currently the bike is in storage. I have the one I took off right in front of me know and it looks like its two pieces. outer ring # 1614165. I wonder if the center plate is different or mounted to the outer ring correctly. Could be off 120 degrees either way.

backing plate.jpg
 
yes i have a motorcycle timing gauge as it says on the box yes its a metric dial indicator its a central probably close to 35 years old its badass:thumbsup: yes there are two sets of screws both sets all the way at the ends of there slots like i said i elongated the outer ones i can get to what should b .5 but it kicks like 5 bumps starts fine runs fine its like the holes are off:excuseme: that crank stub is keyed right??? my flywheel key is good im at a loss :banghead:
 
ok, so do you know where the timing is now? like where the the piston is at when the pin fits thru the flywheel into the pinhole in the motoplat?
 
two things, 1st if the key is giving you grief throw it away
2nd, have you ever timed a Motoplat
you put a dial indicator in and go to TDC, roll it back to the spec and see if a drill bit lines the rotor and stator
if not loosen the screws and with the rotor on rotate the plate till it aligns then hold the mag steady and tech in to tighten the screws
the correct timing is .61mm BTC, on the XC and CR its 2.0
the WR and XC are the same engine try advancing it
the correct way to fit the mag with or without the key, remove the rotor, remove the key, add lapping compound (fine) to the stub shaft, lightly tighten and rotate the rotor on the shaft to lap them for a perfect fit to each other, remove rotor wipe compound off, set timing, lock nut to correct torque
 
Halls told me .5mm btdc yes in the last 35 years iv timed quite a few on huskys and lesser bikes the only thing i can think of is mines not firing when the holes lineup. is that even possible can it be the coil? oh and while i have everyone's attention wheres a ez place to get a bumpstop for the shock [ will a jap bike work] and dose anybody want or need the Anwser S/A pro that is on this bike it dosnt fit to good with the dynoport pipe it was on the 430/ stock pipe
 
BTW whats the lighting out put on that thing is it AC or DC how big of an LED can i run don't need race level lights just for tagging and getting back to the truck Justin im talkin to you . you get that light sorted? oh is there a CR tank sitting on a shelf out there do i need the shrouds to:excuseme:
 
the motoplat output is ac for lighting, so has to be run into a regulator/rectifier for a spikefree dc output. 35w is the rated output, there are some bright led light all under 35w, its just a matter of finding the one to bolt on or configure to what you like for looks. i have mocked up a hella 20w led worklight and it looks pretty good, i am just trying to figure out a way to incorporate an led into an original husky headlight shell.
for a bumpstop, i know phil has them and most suspension shops do as well. they are somewhat universal.
cr tanks are very hard to find, and the shrouds even harder to find. dc makes repro shrouds but only xc/wr.
 
ok just making sure you have it set there. hmm something could be going bad to cause that i guess. the ones ive seen just quit sparking.
 
oddly i had one do that
when you tried to kick it, no matter how hard you kick it kicked back harder
set that Motoplat aside till i have time to figure it out
 
ok guys im pullin the trigger on a Electrex ignition for my WR but i need some info or a P/N they want stator plate od crank taper and flywheel weight :confused: i called Halls but Raymond's at lunch is there an ez source for them in the US?
 
ok you Brits seem to have ahold of the handle thats on this sombuddy give me some answers is an P/N PLEASE god save the queen oh i have this going on three threads now so to refresh the bike is an 87 250WR and yes i meant put this on the tread that i restarted from 4 years ago my bad
 
Andy @ HVA does them (Electrex world) STK185 (without lights) STK185L (with lights) everything you need comes in the kits.
 
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