Is it possible to add a "Kill Switch" in ABS position on left side.

[etotore]

Let me explain, I have a non ABS Terra, planning to add extra light on the bike.

Would be really sweet if the on/off switch used the ABS switch location, where it would have been located if I had ABS. That why I was thinking a Kill Switch would be right because the normal ABS is if I understand just a push button and not ON/OFF. Anyone know if the Kill Button fits there? Under the blanking plug?

 

[Glengemen]

I have the same bike as you, but I believe all the Stratas have what you are looking for.

 

[juicypips]

Just find the wires that are abs, and the ones that are killswitch and wire them together.

 

[juicypips]

And a rocker for killswitch is fine all it does is earth out the signal to the coil.

 

[WayneC]

And a rocker for killswitch is fine all it does is earth out the signal to the coil.

No does not, suggest you look at the wiring diagrams, shorting to earth is what old magneto machines do, not a modern machine

 

[juicypips]

Ok then please enlighten me?

Eitherway it makes no difference if its a tempory push or a full switch to kill the engine.

 

[WayneC]

The kill switch on the Terra Strada is a normally closed switch looping pins 34 and 42 on the BMS-E engine management ECU, Pin 42 is common to the starter switch which is momentary action and loops back to pin 27 on the BMS-E, The wire colors and signal naming suggest both are active low signalling.

This is different to the BMW G650GS/Sertao BMS-E wiring for starter and kill switch

 

[juicypips]

And after all that, so what does it do then just shut down the ecu?

 

[WayneC]

Either way it makes no difference if its a tempory push or a full switch to kill the engine.

Yes it does matter whether it is a momentary action or make/break switch to kill the engine, if you fail to look at the electrical diagrams and understand the wiring then attempt to use old methods from magneto machines at some point you will end up with an expensive ECU replacement problem

And after all that, so what does it do then just shut down the ecu?

When the connection between pins 34 and 42 is broken the BMS-E stops delivering the signals to output devices to operate, in all other respects the BMS-E and other electronics are still active and consuming power, it is not like many earlier alternator electrical systems where operating the kill switch disconnected power from electronics as if the ignition was switched off.

 

[juicypips]

Sorted, so all you have to do is put a speing in the abs switch to stop it being permenantly off (i wouldnt bother)
And wire abs to pin 34-32.


Jobs done.
Or am i now going to be told you cant wire abs into those pins as the resistance of the whole system will be screwed and the sun will revolve around the earth.

Lol i jest cheers for clearing the earthing out coil, dont like change.

 

[WayneC]

Lol i jest cheers for clearing the earthing out coil, dont like change.

I just dont like hearing of people facing a large bill for a damaged ECU simply because they did something to a system they did not understand, I would rather explain it so they avoid the damaged ECU and there have been some on the Terra which could also occur to 650GS BM owners with the BMS-E if they are not careful.

In terms of putting a kill switch on the LHS, it is done on the RHS by convention so we all know where to find it jumping from bike to bike. There is even an accepted standard for the symbol for a kill switch in the UNECE system so people from all language groups understand what the switch is. My understanding is that some country regulations (not US or Oz) mandate the switch be on the RHS. Personally I am busy with the left hand pulling in the clutch so a kill on the left is not practical but my right hand is off the throttle ready to hit the kill in situations where I need it.

 

[Nick780]

The only thing that I would consider safe to try (though no promises on its efficacy) would be to find the lead coming from post '1' in the killswitch diagram here: https://i.imgur.com/AlCuG2C.png

If you use a sprung or toggle switch that's on in the default position, off while depressed, you could cut the wire from lead '1' as describe above. Run that wire to one post of your secondary killswitch and from its second post run it back to the regular killswitch. In the new switch's default on position the wire will act as normal, running current to the stock killswitch. And, when you activate your secondary switch (again default should be on, activated is off) this will mimic the off position of the stock kill switch.

No promises, someone more knowledgeable could shed some light on it, but the stock killswitch appears to maintain connectivity between posts 1 and 2 in the picture I posted. By creating a gap in the '1' lead this would mimic the off position in the stock killswitch. I wouldn't mess the the lead coming from post '2' as it has a junction and it may be tough to tell what side of it you're on.

 

[WayneC]

Yes the basic process is correct there and identifying wire 1 is easy, but do not trust the diagram in the workshop manual, ask around and find the real diagrams

 

[CarstenB]

the OP has asked something completely different that has not been addressed yet. Just saying...

 

[Nick780]

Yes the basic process is correct there and identifying wire 1 is easy, but do not trust the diagram in the workshop manual, ask around and find the real diagrams

If true that's both frightening and disappointing.
So is there a "real" diagram out there? I've referenced the manual's for a few things.

 

[juicypips]

Light lol

 

[Stuart T]

Actually, I'm interested in this too. I'm looking to fit an on/off switch there to kill the headlight and run a pair of fog lights instead. Commuting out of Wollongong in the early hours can get very foggy up the top of the hill and I need to do something. If I can buy the switch from Husky and run the power for the headlight lo-hi beam switch through it, it seems like it would make a neat and simple on-off switch.

 

[Mark_H]

I can understand the idea of using the 'blank' space to fit a switch for another option such as headlight on/off etc, but why would anyone want to go to the trouble of adding a switch that is already fitted on the right handlebar?

The owners manual says the Kill Switch is for use only in emergency, so is the OP anticipating a lot of emergency situations or what?

I use my Kill switch more often than I probably should to stop the bike in normal situations especially when I have thick gloves on and it is easier than turning the key, but in all the time I had the bike I never used it in emergency yet and here's hoping I do not have to.

 

[WayneC]

Actually, I'm interested in this too. I'm looking to fit an on/off switch there to kill the headlight and run a pair of fog lights instead. Commuting out of Wollongong in the early hours can get very foggy up the top of the hill and I need to do something. If I can buy the switch from Husky and run the power for the headlight lo-hi beam switch through it, it seems like it would make a neat and simple on-off switch.

Dont think you would like the price of the switch, I just did a repair of a genuine Husky heated grip switch, I tracked it to the BMW Part No and it was from the police equipment used on a few models at $US118. The non police version of the switch used on a few other models was $US62

 

[etotore]

Okay, I will answer this too.

This will only work on non ABS units, since this position is used for ABS switch, on the models with this.

Bought a DOMINO STARTER KILL SWITCH 4 Wire unit on ebay.

Dismantled it and can confirm the kill switch fits into the Left handle bar, light switch setup.
Soldered on longer wires, and with little fight and some WD40 managed to drag the wires through the existing hose for wires.
Looks like original mounted on the bike, and faster and easier to reach I feel.