• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Intermittent High Idle - returns to normal after pulling and then releasing clutch

jimbee

jimbee

Husqvarna
B Class
Bike: 2011 TE250 with new 12 port + ECU, stock exhaust w spark arrestor, and JD tuner

EFI Set up: All 3 CO settings are at 100%, throttle stop is adjusted so that WOT throttle reads 102.0%, and JD tuner set +/- 1 full step from JD recomendations

As posted in other threads (JD and 12 hole), I've been trying to get my 2011 TE250 running well for an entire year with varying levels of success.

There are times when the bike runs terrific - it runs strong, doesn't flame out, and lugs strong down low like a tractor, but then part way through a ride, it sometimes starts to flame out and stop lugging well without stalling. Same bike, same settings, same ride, but different results. I figure it has something to do with the bike getting hotter. I try to tune with air bypass screw, but that doesn't seem to make a difference. I then turn to trying to tune it out with the JD tuner, but I didn't think that you needed to keep tuning the bike during a ride!?

Up until now, this stuff probably belongs in the other threads, but there are some coinicidant high idle issues that make me think that all of this could be related to something more than just how I have adjusted the various settings, or as simple as leak in the intake.

With the throttle stop adjusted so that WOT throttle reads 102.0%, I've always ended up with a high idle at about 2,300 rpm. If that was the only issue, then I wouldn't be too concerned, but as I'm riding the idle often creeps up to close to 3,500 rpm. This gets challenging in slow technical as well as downhill sections because the bike ends up trying to accelerate. When this happens, I can come to stop, pull in the clutch lever, and the idle will continue to stay up at 3,500; however, if I then release the clutch lever, the idle immediatly drops back down to 2,300 rpm (e.g. I can stop the high idle by manipulating the clutch lever). In addition, I have noticed similar wierdness when sometimes the idle will climb up to 3,500 when just sitting in neutral, then when I put it in gear, the idle drops back down to 2,300 immidiatly.

To summarize, the high idle can be stopped by manipulating the clutch and gear levers. Is there something in the gearbox that talks to the EFI that could cause these issues?

This cause and effect relationship of using the gear and clutch levers to get the idle to come back down is so immediate and works every time, so I am very very doubtful that this has anything to do with a loose hose clamp or other leak in the intake.

Long post, and perhaps more than one issue here, but wanted to provide full context to see if anyone else has experienced anything like this.

Cheers! JB
 
sounds to me like the cold start cable is being effected by the clutch lever. make sure both are free running and routed correctly without it being pulled/crushed/snagged when bars are turned.

best thing to do is get the bike warm and then disconnect the lever from the clutch master cylinder. see if that makes any difference, if so then its the cold start cable being tweaked somewhere.
 
jimbee said:
To summarize, the high idle can be stopped by manipulating the clutch and gear levers. Is there something in the gearbox that talks to the EFI that could cause these issues?
Click to expand...

I would test my gear position sensor (GPS) after having found out how important it is to my bike's proper running. There is a procedure if you have a GPS to test the resistance in all the gears. And yes, the GPS sits on the gear shifter drum and talks to the ECU.

HuskyGPS1.jpg
 
Hi

Have the same problem. I have put the 12hole injector with ECu instead of the 4holes on my TE250 2010 stock exhaust. And it's worse than before when engine is warm, i don't have more power anymore on low and medium and the "bog" is still here. And when i manipulate gear lever, i have a high idle, but if i release clutch lever, the engine not have force like the 4hole injector... If i put it back in neutral position, idle return to a standard idle...

What can i do? Is the GPS is the problem you think?
 
HI,

I return to this discussion of the GPS, In fact, what is the use of it exactly? What's going on if I disable it?
 
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