• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

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Intermitently feels as if there is no air movement on kick over

Moody390

Moody390

Husqvarna
AA Class
Hey fellas,

Bike in question is a 1980 390CR.
The bike has been completely rebuilt. Motor included. This was evident even after the rebuild but is slightly more common now. Before the bike was torn down it kicked fine.
What it feels like, is when kicking over, there is no movement of the piston and its just a heavy weight through the kick lever all the way to the bottom of the action.
when i bring it back up and slowly kick it over, its fine. It will start and run fine a couple of "proper" kicks everytime. I'm just sick of throwing energy into a kick (not the most fun bike to start kitted up, half way through a moto with dirt in your boots) 2 or three times in a row to experience this.

Any ideas on what may be happening?

Thanks in advance,
Moody
 
Did you leave a shop rag on top of the piston before bolting down the head? Just joking, but...

It sounds more like a problem under the clutch cover, like the clutch not assembled properly like maybe an extra plate installed. Pull off your clutch cover (after draining the oil) and check all assembly against a parts diagram. I am you will find the problem in there
 
Is there a nickel coin thickness between the clutch lever and the clutch lever bracket so the clutch is fully on?
I assume this is the older block where you can't start it in gear with the clutch released. It has to be in neutral with your hand off the clutch. The kick starter goes through the clutch assembly. It was changed on the newer block.
 
Thanks fellas, a lead atleast. I will inspect the clutch.
Is there any common traits to clutch wear on these?

The lever has a mm or so play so its not being held on. and it is intermittent. With it happening every 8-10 kicks.
Im not sure whether it is the older or newer block, (Engine number 2080) tho the kicker assembley drives straight onto the the clutch gear. I can't say I have tried starting it in gear or with the clutch.

What is the general clutch feel on these bikes? Mines quite heavy. It gives quite a strong arm pump after a good ride. And what oil is everyone sticking in them?

Thanks guys.
 
A sticking clutch cable could be a problem too.

2080 is the older block were the kick starter drives through the clutch.
 
Im currently using Phils Braided control cables on bothe brake and the clutch.
Does the motion Pro Terminator cable slot straight into the Magura perches without re-sizing?
 
Seeing its an intermittent problem it sounds to me like the kick starter drive gear is sticking. Theres a spring behind the drive gear that pushes it along the kick starter shaft into an adjacent gear wheel.

The symptom you're describing could be caused by the drive gear binding on the kick starter shaft and not sliding to contact the opposing gear wheel. The spring may be damaged, or there may be damage to the kick starter shaft or the drive gear itself.

Inspect parts 15, 20, and 21 on the attached diagram for damage.
 

Attachments

Isn't there a cam when the kick starter turns the teeth engage as the cam turns.

I can't get the file to open.
 
Bigbill said:
Isn't there a cam when the kick starter turns the teeth engage as the cam turns.
I can't get the file to open.
Click to expand...

Yes theres a pawl that does that. Its #22 in the exploded view that I attached above. To open the PDF file you'll need Adobe Acrobat Reader.
 
The clutch release rod maybe out of play. It's suppose to have some end play to the clutch pressure plate.
 
What is the general clutch feel on these bikes? Mines quite heavy. It gives quite a strong arm pump after a good ride. And what oil is everyone sticking in them?
The reason you've got a heavy clutch pull is 2 things: 1) it's not lubed well enough 2) it's not routed correctly. I've bought so many used Husky with
what seems like a Harley like clutch pull & cut all the cable ties they used to secure it to the front frame tube. I take the cable off & lubed it motor
oil then reinstalled, tie wrap it so it got a nice gently loop near the lower pipe & it transforms the pull.

Husky John
 
There is an adjustable release clutch rod that goes through the center of the clutch assembly to the cable operated cam. If we look at the clutch assembly there is a nut and Allen hex set screw. There should be some play in this shaft were it touches the outer clutch release plate. When the clutch is released this clutch plate uses the force of the clutch springs to compress the clutch plates and clutch discs together. Now as things wear this gap or play that should be at this clutch compression plate has closed up. You clutch will slip when kick starting. All you have to do is pull the clutch cover using a 10mm wrench and an Allen wrench and another Allen wrench to stop the clutch release disc from turning so you can unlock the jam nut and back off on the set screw counter clockwise to add a little play so the clutch will be held tight. Then loc the jam nut and reassemble. This rod that goes through the transmission shaft that operates the clutch has an adjustable length. It's simple to adjust.

I purchased a 83 wr 430 from a guy who said it needed a clutch. I paid $150 for it. He had the clutch cover off and the clutch all apart. Everything looked ok. When I got the bike home we reassembled the clutch and the release rod had no play so the clutch was slipping. I adjusted the length of the rod so it had a little play in it. We fired up the bike and it was perfect. We had a running 430 for $150.

This clutch slipping is noticed with the 70's & late 80's engine blocks. Have the adjustable length on the clutch release rod. Don't think it's the clutch being bad. Stop riding it, pull the clutch cover and adjust the length of that rod so it has a little play.
 
Hard to pull clutch levers? How free are your cables? Are they pinched anywhere like by the gas tank?
Is the cable housing making a sharp arc making the cable harder to move? Remove the cable from the tranny to see if it's free to move in and out with the lever. At this time I use the tool for living the cable inside the cable housing too.
 
The cable runs a very big radius. Definately nothing cable wise making it heavy. Very free, brand new, and lubed. I thought it may be the clutch springs and it was naturally heavy. I guess not.
I will feed back on the findings after I play with the pushrod.

Thank you!
 
my bike was the opposite, it had 7 small washers jammed over the clutch cable to space out the cable after the lever adjuster had been wound right out. (the gearbox was full of coolant;)) I adjusted the rod and ditched the cable spacers and all good....
 
I forget if you remove the clutch cable from the lever on the tranny you should have some free play in the lever till it touches the clutch cover plate. If there is no play in the lever and it's tight the clutch release shaft needs to be adjusted so there is some play in it. As the clutch plates wear this play becomes less and less finally the clutch will slip because it's being released.

I'm sorry I haven't worked on husqvarna in over a decade but my memory is returning now.

During the engine rebuilding when the crank seals and bearings are replaced this clutch release rod play must be checked on the bench when the clutch cover is off.
When the case is assembled.
 
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