• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

125-200cc Installing 144 as we speak. - PV question.

J

JRod4928

Husqvarna
AA Class
The power valve linkage mod - where you move the bolt higher in the slot. Should it "top out" in the slot or leave a mm or 2? I'm looking for better bottom/mid. Willing to sacrifice some top but not much.
 
Thanks!

By the way, it IS possible to replace a top end on a 2012 CR 125 without removing the tank, rads, etc. Awesome. Though the time saved was wasted by having to scrape base gasket remnants off the engine. Lol
 
When I did mine, the guy I bought the parts from told me to push it up until you start to feel a little tension, then tighten it there. I did that and it didn't run right. So I pulled the cover off, pushed it up a little higher (it was definitely on the bottom half of the linkage when I pulled it apart) and tried it and it ran great. That's where I left it. I have no idea what the difference will be if you push it all the way up, basically preloading the spring more. If somebody knows, clue me in.
If it's not too late, measure your squish while it's apart. You can get base gaskets in different thicknesses to put it where you want. I used a .3 mm to put mine at 1.05 mm.
 
Squish
Zomby woof said:
When I did mine, the guy I bought the parts from told me to push it up until you start to feel a little tension, then tighten it there. I did that and it didn't run right. So I pulled the cover off, pushed it up a little higher (it was definitely on the bottom half of the linkage when I pulled it apart) and tried it and it ran great. That's where I left it. I have no idea what the difference will be if you push it all the way up, basically preloading the spring more. If somebody knows, clue me in.
If it's not too late, measure your squish while it's apart. You can get base gaskets in different thicknesses to put it where you want. I used a .3 mm to put mine at 1.05 mm.
Click to expand...

Squish ranges from 0.045" to 0.047". I measured front back left and right using modeling clay. That averages to about 1.17mm. It's a little high.
 
Mine had a .5 mm, and I installed a .3. Yours sound like it's pretty close to where mine was. I didn't notice any difference, so I wouldn't fret over it.
 
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