• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Idle problems? 2010 te 250

H

henson802

Husqvarna
AA Class
I have a 2010 TE 250 - Since I know nothing about bikes, I had the dealer do all the derestrictions (O2 sensor out, catalytic converter out, spart arrestor out, air box cover thingy out..yada yada yada..also updated with latest fuel settings supposedly (I forgot to ask when doing the final checkout, but mentioned I wanted this beforehand).

It was idling around 1900-2100 rpms and didn't seem to have problems.

At around 550 miles, I brought it in to dealership to replace with 50 rear sprocket, new chain, put back in spark arrestor -- I had heard it would muffle sound a little more which is good (loud sounds not good when trail riding for me)....then inspect it for road... They are a good shop and never had problems with what they do. They are knowledgable - they will service snowmobiles and any dirt bike.

I started noticing it had some trouble starting even in warm weather (summer in Northeast USA)..it would turn over but then cut off. I saw that it was now idling at 1400 to 1700 rpms...odd considering the shop didn't do anything with fuel settings...The sound of the engine/exhaust seemed to almost struggle and was very inconsistent in the output sound.

I have about 1350 miles on it now, replaced oil and oil filter... but I have had it stall on me for no apparent reason multiple times when I'm stuck in traffic, holding clutch in (first gear obviously)..I pretty much have to hold clutch in and give it a little gas so the rpms stay between 2000-2700 rpms to prevent any surprise stalls.

I just bought and installed the JD PowerSurge. I haven't had time to tinker with the settings but it did stall on me again on my way to work. Hoping this will fix the idle problems once I manipulate the settings some, but just wanted to ask if anyone else had this problem?

Also - what is the typical RPMS for when this bike is idling? (Derestricted of course)...Right now it's between 1400-1700 still and it really doesn't feel like that's enough.
 
i would check the valves. hard starting and stalling is an initial sign.

i am in RI and there really isn't a "close" dealer for me.
 
Ok thanks- I'm in middle of VT so there isn't a dealer here either (I got the bike in Mass..)

It starts up and turns over fine then after a few seconds it will die off (this is if the bike has been non-used for a day or so). I will then try again and it will turn over and I slow rev it so it doesn't stall and to warm it up (FI's don't have choke correct??). Then it will idle fine (well it won't stall). But like I said, the idle seems to be up and down from 1700 down to 1350 then back etc. I had a local shop do a service today so I would think that is checking valves.

Once I get going, it runs good. But this just happened again since my last post, I was coming to a stop so I have it in 2nd, hold clutch and switch it down to 1st.. and while I'm still holding clutch and travelling 10mph, engine shuts off completely... So I coast to a stop (from holding clutch) and have to put er back in neutral and started again.

It's not me slipping the clutch or anything, cause if I DO that, it cuts out differently. The way it happens now is that it'll be idling then just immediately cut out like it was turned off.

I'm not a hardcore rider, probably half on main roads and 1/4 on dirt roads and 1/4 on moderate trails...I try not to keep it revved past 6500 7000 unless I need to do a hill climb or want to do rooster tails in mud lol :thumbsup: 1350 miles

My bike is stored outside where I live so it will be a day or two before I get on it again. I'm going to take a look at the spark plugs and see how they are - though I don't know if that would be related to the problem or not. And then also try to adjust the idle fuel mix with the JD PowerSurge.

Any other help would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks JSX for your input.
 
Didn't realize there was an idle adjustment screw for fuel injection bikes ugh - - I'm looking at the service manual and it says the rpm idle speed should be 1950 for 2010 250s.

:banghead: will give that a try first.
 
If fuel sits in the bike for more than a couple of weeks it can deposit gunk in the fuel system. Startron, Techron, or other good fuel cleaner (I like Amsoil PI) wouldn't hurt. The fuel these days evaporates quickly and absorbs moisture and will setup a green gunk or white crust on fuel parts. Any dirt or gunk will mess with settings and running smoothness for sure.

X2 on a higher idle. 1900-1950 is about right. Will help curb excessive compression decel and make starting easier as well.
 
I bought 3 new Huskys this year and stalling for no reason is a saftey issue on TE 250/630 or SMS630 models in traffic. Yamaha announce in July 2011 a recall of 10,000 bikes for stalling..as a consumer, this is not right to purchase a new bike and be in jepardy for a stall in traffic? Let us get together on this. I love the bikes, you can put in the $1300 power up kits in, but dealers do not want to adjust the TPS or check mapping as Husky says. What do ya do? Step up**************************************** I have BMWs and they run perfect? They own Husky? Help?
 
If they put the spark Arrestor back in w/o changing your CO settings, particularly on CO1 then the bike will run rich on low end and the idle speed will drop.

The SA makes a big difference in soud and jetting...not so much on power but you need to adjust for the SA.
 
Idle could be a bit higher.
Could need TPS set, not sure if your shop has iBeat and can do it. Maybe some richer/leaner ;) settings on CO 1, at least.
Valves could need adj. but not likely
You should be able to get a nice smooth idle with that much mileage and no stalls but I will say this.....
I let my bike warm up a minimum of 3 min, .....if I try and drive right off after starting from cold it can and will stall
 
Had the TPS set as the Husky Power up kit said and wow****************************************! You can walk it in to gear and it is power on. This is a bike that the clutch cam apart at 40 miles..and had always stalled with any resistance taking off.
 
Edward Dalke said:
Had the TPS set as the Husky Power up kit said and wow! You can walk it in to gear and it is power on. This is a bike that the clutch cam apart at 40 miles..and had always stalled with any resistance taking off.
Click to expand...
Edward Dalke said:
Had the TPS set as the Husky Power up kit said and wow! You can walk it in to gear and it is power on. This is a bike that the clutch cam apart at 40 miles..and had always stalled with any resistance taking off.
Click to expand...

What did they set the TPS too?
 
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