• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

iBeat / Semco EFI info

HUSKYnXJnWI said:
YEA the procedures for a "2008" and 2009+ Mikuni set up are totally different. I have tuned my 09 and a 10 with Ibeat- it makes more sence than the 2008 procedure..

If you run in power up mode on an 2009+ you never have to plug the Lambda in to change CO settings- FB settings are not used in power up mode with 2009+. CO1 is like pilot, C02 is like needle, and CO3 is like main.

With 2008's all you have is FB1 and TPS- I have a copy of the PU Procedure with Ibeat from husqvarna- I should posthat- but I think that's on here somewhere. There you have to have the lambda plug incerted to make adjustments if FB1 is higher than 107 or less than 96 you adjust it to 100. Apparently thats "it". FB1 I believe is equivalent to enrichening or leaning the whole fuel map.
TPS adjustments appear the same for all- set to 100.2 WOT and make sure the tps set points match.
Click to expand...

George, through some "miracle" even he cannot explain, was able to get iBeat to access and adjust FB1, FB2, and FB3 on many, if not all 08 TE's. Mine would not cooperate as a 250 nor at first as a 300 (Athena). He had my bike for 2 weeks when we were out of town and got it sorted. 127.2, 116, and 106 are the FB #'s and it shows up on my iBeat at home. Idle is smoother even here n Mammoth at 8000 ft. No backfire on decal.

I've probably posted this before and it's a bit anecdotal for sure but maybe useful.
 
JasonfromMN said:
Heres what ibeat says about my TPS. Good, bad? how do you set WOT? with a multimeter and not ibeat?

photo34.jpg


Messing with the CO is so much funner and easier than the FB settings of the 08.
Click to expand...

That looks good- both numbers are the same-

TO set the WOT- look at this thread. Their is a video-which covers adjusting the hard stop. I forgot what is explained all in all in it though...
So I'll give some explanation.... just in case...
With your bike hooked to I/beat on the main screen it shows "throttle position" in %'s (bottom left of screen). Open your throttle all the way till it stops- on a 450/510 the throttle position on I/beat will read somewhere around 100%- It has been found that with 510/450's that number should read 100.2% and for 250/310's that number should read 100.4. To adjust it, you have to change BOTH the hard stop setting and then accept the change in the TPS screen. If you don't accept the change you will never see a change in the "throttle Position" portion and it won't read 100.2- rather it will show the same number over and over.
So...
1- adjust the hard stop slightly and lock it back down (be carefull not to over tighten- its alot lice adjusting a tappet adjuster). Loosen the lock nut the bolt with allen is what adjusts (clockwise closes throttle (decreases volts)) / (Counter Clockwise opens throttle/butterfly (increases volts)).
2- open the TPS screen- accept the change, and close that screen. Then turn the throttle to WOT and check that portion of the screen again (hoping for 100.2).
3- if you have 100.2 you are done- if not go back to 1 and make the adjustment to the hardstop in the right direction +/- as much or as little as needed.

I would right down your numbers so you have it if needed- before and after adjustments. With my bike 100.2 works well- I can tell if the TPS is off a little. I have adjusted others bikes and it made all the difference for them as well.

Good Luck!
 
You set the WOT (Wide Open Throttle) with the big number graph similar to what you have in the picture in the back. Close the TPS idle adjustment box you have there, then the background pic you have, change that from the needles you have to the "Large Monitor Screen", it is the the third choice on the left. There you will see Tach, Throttle % etc.. With Key on, engine off, if you hold it WOT you can read what your % is on throttle.

I assume you have "read" the TPS value on the screen there and set it. Make sure the bike is warm when you do this as they will actually read a little different when cold. It's fun so don't be scared of it! Take the time to play around with this stuff. CO1 I think controls 0%-20% throttle opening. While the engine is off notice how short 20% comes on. On my 250 I found that I was actually needing to adjust CO2 some more.
 
Ive read only to adjust the CO when the bike is warm. I was out playing with CO adjustments today and ended up making it flatter on the bottom and mid because Im trying to find both extremes to nail down where perfect is. After I set the CO too high the fam and I had to go somewhere and I couldn't finish it. The question is can I go in and set the CO where I know I want it now or do I have to do the full bike warm up first? If i don't, will the CO not be where I set it then?
 
It should be fine to set it up at home cold since you know what you want. Say a 107 is going to still be 7% richer when warm or cold. At least that is my take on it. I have had the same issue as you making the bike more flat in search of more power plenty of times..
 
As posted a few pages back in this thread WOT throttle setting for iBeat:
Full throttle = 100.2% on 450/510 and 100.4% on 310/250

1. What is the recommended setting for a 630?
2. Does the engine need to be warm for this measurement? Seems like it shouldn't matter warm or cold as a mechanical stop only.
3. Anybody have or know where to get a Mikuni iBeat Operation Manual?

_
 
jtemple said:
PM sent
Click to expand...

Thanks. My question #3 is answered. iBeat operation manual was right under my nose as it is on the iBeat CD..duh..a rare senior moment for me I guess. haha

WOT % setting anyone? Talked to George and he said it should be close to 100%. Still looking for something more definitive than that before I go adjusting my hard stop. My bike is set at 102.4 which seems high compared to all other Husky models.

_
 
SilverBullet said:
WOT % setting anyone? Talked to George and he said it should be close to 100%. Still looking for something more definitive than that before I go adjusting my hard stop. My bike is set at 102.4 which seems high compared to all other Husky models.
_
Click to expand...

I have never seen a recomended WOT% for a 610 specifically. I've seen the question go unanswered though. However, someone with a 610 must have adjusted or left the WOT% at some number with sucessfull results. I'd post this specific question in the 610 forum asking to establish a number or poll what has worked.

Ultimately, I agree with George, it should be a number close to 100- but that specific number should provide an acceptable idle rpm without adjusting the idle bypass screw too far in or too far out (aim for being close to 2.5 turns out ultimately) Then test and adjust CO settings as needed (changing the TPS WOT% should effect the CO1 setting and vice versa). The TPS WOT% should remain static (constant) in terms of adjustments once a good number is reached- then you adjust to maintain it from time to time. I would start with 100.2% if you don't get any feed back from anyone.
 
SilverBullet said:
Thanks. My question #3 is answered. iBeat operation manual was right under my nose as it is on the iBeat CD..duh..a rare senior moment for me I guess. haha

WOT % setting anyone? Talked to George and he said it should be close to 100%. Still looking for something more definitive than that before I go adjusting my hard stop. My bike is set at 102.4 which seems high compared to all other Husky models.

_
Click to expand...

MY '10 Te250 came in at 102.4 also.

lower TPS is resulting in a high idle and hard starting.

I may go back to 102.4
 
Motosportz said:
So here it is iBeat 2.0 on Vista via USB.
Ok so maybe a stupid question, but will this work for a 2010 TE 450 as well? This is a full fuel injection model
Install iBeat - EZ loads right up
Install drivers for USB / serial convert - EZ
Take the cap off the plug under the plate
plug the cord in
Start iBeat

Might need to tell it com port 5.

Bike needs to be warm.

Here is the main screen...

728446100_erbMk-L.jpg


Good info.

Another info page.
Motosportz said:
As many of you know i recently purchased a 2010 TXC250 with EFI. My first EFI bike and need to learn. I ordered up a Semco cable and got iBeat V 2.0 Very slick setup and EZ to use.

I thought I would mention many people balk at the idea of buying $300 worth of stuff to "rejet" a bike. We had a nice long discussion amongst some riders the other day and decided this was not a bad thing. First off most people buy a JD kit for about $100 and spend some time fiddling. Then must change the jetting for different temps and altitude. Some people buy "Power now" carb wings, adjustable fuel screws, adjustable AP's, $200 anti-bog carb bowls, the list is endless. Many people have more than $300 invested in their carbs.

With the semco / iBeat setup you can plug it in, adjust some stuff, run diagnostics and tune for pipes etc. all this happens in about 2 minutes and no pulling anything apart on the bike. It is truly the next big thing IMHO.

In the next few weeks I'll do some screen shots and provide some info so people who are on the fence might feel better about all this.

BTW, these bikes have temp / altitude sensors that adjust to varying conditions and apply base maps. What you do in iBeat just changes the current base map your bike is using to a plus of minus percentage of what you set. the base map is always changing and your + / - is being added on top.

Going to a MX race, upload the race map, pop out the SA or pop on the race muffler and have at it. Going trail riding or have an enduro with a firm DB limit? Load the trail settings, and pop on the super quiet muffler.

Good stuff.
Click to expand...


CO adjustment or "jetting" low/mid/high

728446106_eVSWE-M.jpg


Call me a geek but this is cool. So I used the iBeat once before when the dealer adjusted the EFI as per my wishes. I went to rich. To counteract this I took the SA out for a couple rides. this made the jetting slightly lean on the bottom but good power. A lean stumble was there but not really much of an issue. I was at 110/115/115 which means 10% richer at low, 15 at mid and 15 top end. Tonight i put the SA back in, which before made it a little blubbery on the bottom and went with what you see on image above. While the bike is running I ran the 1 or low down and the bike started to idle better and sound crisper!!! how cool, click a button on the mouse and hear a change in the motor. Goofed around a little and grabbed above screen shots and then had to tend to the herd (kids). Will play with it more but a rip around the hood with the SA in and above settings and the bike runs perfect as far as i can tell. Idles much better, lots of snap, no bog or hesitation anywhere as far as I can tell.

EFI, I ain't scared. :D
Click to expand...
 
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