speedkills
Husqvarna
A Class
at the prices Bill was blowing them out for it was easier to just buy another
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Hi everyone,
As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.
When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.
Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.
Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.
Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.
Thanks for your patience and support!
All 2st I was going to wash it but then I realized...
- Thread starter speedkills
- Start date
Husqvarna
wallybean
Mini-Sponsor
Congrats**************************************** You will love it as you know. I bolted the 09 CR125 motor I bought from Bill into mine and it was pretty impressive for a 125. If the WR had ever run like that I would never have spent all the time and money searching for answers to the WR motor issues. Enjoy.
speedkills
Husqvarna
A Class
Yep. I rode Jake's CR125 this weekend and was so impressed with the 19" rear wheel and CR ignition I started pricing them out in my head, then quickly realized by the time I bought those it wasn't too far off just buying a CR and selling my WR so I went that route instead. I'm sure I could have made my WR feel like Jake's CR eventually but this seemed like the quickest route to get there.
Nice Shane, Congrats.
HR this weekend?
Mine bogged BAD when I first rode it at Eddieville. Made great power on the pipe, but it was really hard to get over the bog and into the power.
After e'ville I adjusted the PV linkage adjustment all the way up, put on the FMF system and the RM needle in the carb. It runs better, especially after I put the needle to clip #3, but it still struggles to get into the power.
I rode Mark's bike and was shocked with how hard it pulled, so I know its in there. Just gotta get it out....
PC - When I rode your bike I thought it was just too rich on the bottom third of the throttle. I think a #5 slide (or have RB cut yours) and a smaller pilot might do wonders. Gearing it down a bit would help also. It sometimes takes a while to get one of these bikes dialed in, and they are all different so there is no one size fits all solution unfortunetly.
speedkills
Husqvarna
A Class
When I bought the WR (had only ridden a CR) the story I kept hearing was they run the same, same engine, same everything, just the rear wheel difference mainly. If only I had known.
My main question with the CR is now that I know how much I like riding an engine with so little rotating mass do I risk modding the electrical to get a little lighting power out of it for the 24 hour at Starvation Ridge or not? Don't want to buy a CR, try to add a few watts to it and then turn it into a WR.
I know and I'm not complaining. I bought the bike as a project since my 300 is dialed and I knew this would be a work in progress.
I already got the 52T on the rear, but not sure I want to spend money on the Mikuni. I think I'd rather invest it in a PWK36.
I forgot how finicky those carbs are. Plus I have lots of PWK jets and needles already.
I already got the 52T on the rear, but not sure I want to spend money on the Mikuni. I think I'd rather invest it in a PWK36.
I forgot how finicky those carbs are. Plus I have lots of PWK jets and needles already.
ajaxauto
Husqvarna
Pro Class
My 2008 CR 125 i had the stock stator rewound what they really do is use the 2 emply spots to add about 35 watts of power .I then added a batty to the air box box cost 6 dollars from Husky and it just set in the air box and the seat holds it down .I run a hid light that pulls 26 watts but now with the batty at a lide or when you let off the gas for a turn the light does not dim.i have been running it like this for 3 years and no problem . The rewoud stator cost about 100 dollars from ricky stator
.com There is many old threads about this
wallybean
Mini-Sponsor
As Ajax mentioned it is easy to re-wind the existing stator for some lights. I don't think there is any real performance change with just re-winding. If you go to a larger flywheel to get more lighting then you will get that part of the equation from the WR. If you use the WR ignition to get the lights then you will re-create the WR problems.
speedkills
Husqvarna
A Class
A larger flywheel is what I was thinking, shooting for closer to 100 watts than 35. I wasn't sure how much of the difference came down to rotating mass and how much was the actual ignition differences.
wallybean
Mini-Sponsor
Are you going to leave it as a 125? I can tell you from trying the 6 oz flywheel weight with the 144 that it handles it well. Mine in CR144 form as it is now wants to wheel spin rip at the mearest hint of a throttle crack, with the flywheel weight it runs the way the WR should but doesn't and is much more controllable. The ignition is huge in the equation. Now mine has a great sealing and elevated power valve grind that really makes it grunt on the low end / mid. I also am running quite a bit higher compression and a better squish than the stock 144. I still think you should bolt your 144 top end on the new cr and try it. I have noticed a couple of things about the OEM 144 now that I have had a couple sent to me for valve grinding. 1st, the oem cylinder is the 125 cylinder bored out at the factory. The rear transfer has a very shallow angle of flow into the cylinder to get the charge moving up rather than straight out towards the exhaust port. When bored it lowers this port 3-4 mm's as opposed to the height it has as a 125. It should be virtually the same height as the side transfers. I deepen the port before boring so it ends up at the same height as stock 125 with the same shallow flow. I am not sure but you can probably raise that height without ruining the cylinder lining but ask your local engine builder. 2nd, even though they are boring out the 125 blank they at least are adjusting the depth of the bore holes for the power valves. What that means is you can bore that cylinder to a 167 by just welding up the inlet in the back of the sleeve and porting out the rear of the cylinder casting just like the old cylinder. What does all this drivel mean. With the right adjustments to the 144 you will still love it even with a bigger flywheel. Plus if you want more for all the trail work you do then send it to George and get the 167.
speedkills
Husqvarna
A Class
We'll so how long I can wait. It's going 144 eventually but as long as it's together and runs well it MAY get to stay a 125 until it's time for a ring. Never can tell. It's not like I needed tons of power, the 144 was mainly a way for me to get around the powerband issues. I think with the new bike I'll still prefer the 144 but I don't think it'll be a rush. As it was Saturday my 144 was running nearly as well as it ever has and I still preferred Jakes 125 by a good margin. It wasn't more powerful, but it was definitely more fun.