• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

I solved the/my "noisy" engine problem (and it's not what you may think it is)

sean bromley said:
thanks redrims! my 2007 te450 did exactly the same when i bench tested it, so i ran a 10 tap down where the spring and nut goes,took a m10 bolt and drilled part of the way down the threaded end of the bolt, enough for the spring to fit in. then fitted the tensioner back on the bike, used a probe to set the tension then fitted the bolt with copper washer and locknuts, i then turned over the engine a few times, then started the engine as normal. i wound my adjuster in steady until chain slap could'nt be heard, then backed it off a touch, tightened lock nuts and it sounds really quiet now at tickover, and no chance of adjuster working it's way back.:)View attachment 28847
Click to expand...
Have you had any weird side affects with modifying the auto tensioner?
 
it did feel a little tight when I was first trying it out so I backed it off a bit more, then went out on the trails and after say, 20miles it started to rattle again so I increased the tension a touch, then continued on my way, and it sounded fine. I must add that I've left a bit of space between tensioner and nut, it's not just tight in there. but I may take out the tensioner, remove the spark plug and turn the engine by hand, and with a probe or screw driver, find the tightest spot on the chain, then refit tensioner and adjust from that point.:excuseme:
 
Keep us posted. I think this is an awesome idea. I can't tell what mine does. I have an 08' te510 and upon cold start up, it sounds like something is not building pressure in the oil system or the tensioner is allowing the chain to be too tight. If you blip the throttle over 3000rpm and let go back to idle, it sounds normal. Only when cold and no difference with whatever brand oil. Done it since I got it with 695 miles and now has 2600 miles
 
i'll keep you posted on how the modification goes. have you removed your tensioner and bench tested it? when i say bench test i really mean whacking the ratchet against a vice or similar and you may find the tensioner retracting upon whacks. this is not good. my '07 te 450 sounded like i was opening and closing my kitchen utensil drawer 1200 times per minute. all i can say is check the tensioner and if it's no good try an ape manual one or drill and tap the standard one to stop the ratchet retracting when it should be tensioning.
 
Hello I was going to ask if the exhaust pipe on the 07 sm610 will get in the way of a manual timing chain adjuster and do you have to find TDC before installing the manual timing chain adjuster???
 
MOTORHEAD said:
Did anyone try this ? It looks to me like it would work, too. I'm thinking just a long bolt with a jam nut would the trick.
Click to expand...

I decided to go all the way and make a manual tensioner, I removed the ratchet, spring and Pawl , sent a m10 tap right through, then found a suitable length bolt, ground the head until round then fitted with copper washer and lock nuts. Just enough clearance with the starter. And does the same job as an ape tensioner would. Covered 300 miles so far with no issues.
 
I had a 94 610 that sounded like a can of marbles
Funnest bike I have ever owned though

My 99 is the same after owing it a couple months now
Going to try this fix you guys have happening here
Simple and anyone can do it

Thanks for the thread
Excellent read and figure it should get bumped up for others to read

One other thing I am finding is the clutch baskets and spring shims are nfg
This is one other big issue on these bikes with engine noise

Nice bikes but some issues that need attn
Good thing this form exists so fixes can be found the easy way
 
Good thread, just found it. I will look into the one on my new to me low mileage '08 TE510.
I think the idea of a manual tensioner is very good, but will require more attention
over the long run as chains do stretch. Then there is the possibility of over tightening
which will create rapid wear on the components. Best bet is to use finer threads and
make checking it part of regular maintenance.
One of the posters above was right about setting it at the proper place as chain tension
is never constant throughout one complete cycle. So removing the spark plug and finger
tightening with attention is the way to go.

I can see how the auto tensioning devise is useful on production 4 cycle motors
as they self setting and no two motors will ever be alike. That and the average
owner does not have the skill to set it.
 
I put the Big Bore Thumpers dot com MCCT on our '08's. The 510 was easy to set adjustment, the 250/310 was a pain because of the cylinder being lower and behind the mid pipe. I got them both installed and set and they are revvin' along nicely. I put some permatex thread sealant on them for good measure. I would put MCCT's on the 630's if they were available. I trust a MCCT with me wrenching it.
 
Do you know what my options are with this tensioner:

Everyone seems to assume the ratcheting type is the only type, but this one is smooth.
 
Apparently it is just a regular auto tensioner but my problem is every thread I find on the internet is about the ratchet type rather than this type. This is what it looks like apart:



I am having some worries as to whether it is doing it's job or not, take a look on my "610 engine rattle" thread and tell me what you think.

Edit: Just found this video of a DR650 tensioner, the Husky one is the same but smaller:

 
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