• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

125-200cc I seized her again...

Yep, its the SM which as far as I know is a version of the WRE which came from the WR.

Frame etc all stamped WR and yes electronic PV.
 
Umm try lean setting with cooler plug, if it fowled its because its too rich and hotter plugs can hole pistons specially with correct/modded squish.
 
Umm try lean setting with cooler plug, if it fowled its because its too rich and hotter plugs can hole pistons specially with correct/modded squish.


Yeah I was just using that as a means of describing how rich the jetting was. I could clean up the BR10EG and adjust the carb but you reckon the plug could be the culprit?
 
Plug shouldnt be the cause Harley And I really am starting to feel your pain as it really dosnt all add up, someting is really astray with that bike but being of no help what so ever as from now as im baffeled so once again im going to suggest putting the stock carb back on for a test run just to see if it goes away, its only going to take you a hour at a push and at least if it dosnt cure the problem we will then all know its someting else causing the troubles - What it is im at a loss to help any further, Does the bike have some sort of ecu fitted to opperate the power valves and was the stock carb fitted with a sensor to send readings to said box ? Clutching at straws now lol
 
Plug shouldnt be the cause Harley And I really am starting to feel your pain as it really dosnt all add up, someting is really astray with that bike but being of no help what so ever as from now as im baffeled so once again im going to suggest putting the stock carb back on for a test run just to see if it goes away, its only going to take you a hour at a push and at least if it dosnt cure the problem we will then all know its someting else causing the troubles - What it is im at a loss to help any further, Does the bike have some sort of ecu fitted to opperate the power valves and was the stock carb fitted with a sensor to send readings to said box ? Clutching at straws now lol

Yeah this really sucks. Ill get the stock carb on later today and see how that goes.

Yes, the powervalve system has a huge unit to control the opening and closing of the servo, this takes input from the "spark" wire the CDI uses off the stator. This particular year did not use a throttle position/air temp sensor or any connection to the carb.
 
OK stock carb on, adjusted and still detonation. No worse or better.

Pulled the stator for a look at the seal, heres a pic:

9fDuJOhl.jpg


Looked a little sketchy to me, pulled it and gave it a clean but hasn't changed anything either.
 
Yeah haha, I pushed it in too far so its chewed now anyway. The rookie mistakes are flowing...

Just when I started it the idle seemed to be real smooth and steady but went back to the way it was soon after. I bet this was as it got chewed!

Bearing seals on the way. I'll report on that in a few days.
 
Check for play on the main bearings too just try and move the crank up and down.
Good effort and hope this is the issue suprised it even started.
Keep us posted.
 
Well done to you Harley, Should be on the road to recovery now :thumbsup:

Really can't thank you guys on here enough for the support, it's been unreal. Also big up to all who maintain this place, its an amazing resource. Owe you all one!


Check for play on the main bearings too just try and move the crank up and down.
Good effort and hope this is the issue suprised it even started.
Keep us posted.


Yeah no play at all, ill for sure be reporting back hopefully with a final good news post!

These seals would really need to be the issue, otherwise I'm pretty much done.
 
If its not the seals go take it to a supermarket and leave it for a day.. Then report it stolen when it does go or if your mega unlucky burn it as a sacrifice to the dirtbike gods.
 
unless both seals are accessible from the out side you should replace the bearings to riding it on the road you rack up a lot of miles quick and at hi rpm if you can scrape up the cash do the WHOLE THING rod to and be done with it:thumbsup: do it right do it once
 
unless both seals are accessible from the out side you should replace the bearings to riding it on the road you rack up a lot of miles quick and at hi rpm if you can scrape up the cash do the WHOLE THING rod to and be done with it:thumbsup: do it right do it once


Don't know if I could go as far as doing the bearings + rod right now but yeah seals are accessible from outside, flywheel side for certain. Whether I can get the clutch off is another concern! These bikes don't have a separate clutch cover like most, the whole side cover must come off too.
 
Be very tempted to clean out the stator housing and just replace that seal.. Slack i know.
Man your jetting is for sure gunna be outta whack now.
 
Wow.

That to me seems pretty rich. Does not sound like a carb issue but pull the bowl off and make sure there is no crud in the carb bowl making it go lean. I assume crank seals and reed block is all sealed well? It does look like a detonation (to small squish), and or cold seize (corner seize) and man thats a good one. Looks like the piston clearance might be way to tight. Piston clearance, ring gap and compression should all be measured when rebuilding so you know what you are starting with is within tolerances.

Remember back on March 22 when i said this? :D
 
i would just replace the magneto side crank seal, why mess with the drive side one right now? its not sucking trans fluid or it would be pouring smoke. keep it simple right now. just get that 1 seal changed and go from there..
 
Be very tempted to clean out the stator housing and just replace that seal.. Slack i know.
Man your jetting is for sure gunna be outta whack now.

Hey I don't mind messing around with jetting again if I'm on the home straight!


i would just replace the magneto side crank seal, why mess with the drive side one right now? its not sucking trans fluid or it would be pouring smoke. keep it simple right now. just get that 1 seal changed and go from there..

Yeah my father was making the same point but for saving unnecessary work, and I was thinking the same regarding smoke.

Sounds good to me then, hopefully Saturday the seals get here.
 
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