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Hi everyone,
As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.
When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.
Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.
Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.
Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.
Thanks for your patience and support!
125-200cc I need help
- Thread starter Roberto
- Start date
juicypips
Husqvarna
Pro Class
thats the ticket and does look very similar to how mine is.
so if you dont understand the black an white view this is how mine looks,
first drain the oil and water.
un bolt your gear lever and undo the clutch cast not the 6 bolts but the 8 or so that hold the clutch cover to the engine this should come away freely with water pump gear attatched and your powervalve operating gear, now be careful hear as there may be a small metal washer stuck to the end of these. keep em safe.
take the clutch hub bolts out 6 of em and remove the springs washers and actuator mushroom, put these on a plastic bag.
you should now look like this
so what i do is i bash the lock tabs that hold the 27mm clutch nut down and grab my impact driver i didnt keep the pressureplates in but i would recommend that you do as your less likly to slice your hand as you undo the nut.
then you lift the clutch hub away from the basket
there is a thick splined washer that locks the basket to the shaft twist and remove this, the basket should just pull off and there are two needle rollers that mine run on Be careful not to drop these as theyre a pain to clean.
this is what it should look like, it may be different slightly im not familiar with 125's. the only thing holding my selector fork to my case at this point is the two vertical spring arms straight above the circlip on the image, i priyed these away with a flat screwdriver then removed.
not sure if that pic worked as it was upside down,
the shaft is now free and you can put in the replacment.
i hope this helps and i am sorry if its made you more confused as wallybean mentioned they are different.
good luck and dont be afraid to ask questions.
so if you dont understand the black an white view this is how mine looks,
first drain the oil and water.
un bolt your gear lever and undo the clutch cast not the 6 bolts but the 8 or so that hold the clutch cover to the engine this should come away freely with water pump gear attatched and your powervalve operating gear, now be careful hear as there may be a small metal washer stuck to the end of these. keep em safe.
take the clutch hub bolts out 6 of em and remove the springs washers and actuator mushroom, put these on a plastic bag.
you should now look like this
so what i do is i bash the lock tabs that hold the 27mm clutch nut down and grab my impact driver i didnt keep the pressureplates in but i would recommend that you do as your less likly to slice your hand as you undo the nut.
then you lift the clutch hub away from the basket
there is a thick splined washer that locks the basket to the shaft twist and remove this, the basket should just pull off and there are two needle rollers that mine run on Be careful not to drop these as theyre a pain to clean.
this is what it should look like, it may be different slightly im not familiar with 125's. the only thing holding my selector fork to my case at this point is the two vertical spring arms straight above the circlip on the image, i priyed these away with a flat screwdriver then removed.
not sure if that pic worked as it was upside down,
the shaft is now free and you can put in the replacment.
i hope this helps and i am sorry if its made you more confused as wallybean mentioned they are different.
good luck and dont be afraid to ask questions.
Cosmokenney
Husqvarna
Pro Class
thats the ticket and does look very similar to how mine is.
so if you dont understand the black an white view this is how mine looks,
first drain the oil and water.
un bolt your gear lever and undo the clutch cast not the 6 bolts but the 8 or so that hold the clutch cover to the engine this should come away freely with water pump gear attatched and your powervalve operating gear, now be careful hear as there may be a small metal washer stuck to the end of these. keep em safe.
take the clutch hub bolts out 6 of em and remove the springs washers and actuator mushroom, put these on a plastic bag.
you should now look like this
so what i do is i bash the lock tabs that hold the 27mm clutch nut down and grab my impact driver i didnt keep the pressureplates in but i would recommend that you do as your less likly to slice your hand as you undo the nut.
then you lift the clutch hub away from the basket
there is a thick splined washer that locks the basket to the shaft twist and remove this, the basket should just pull off and there are two needle rollers that mine run on Be careful not to drop these as theyre a pain to clean.
this is what it should look like, it may be different slightly im not familiar with 125's. the only thing holding my selector fork to my case at this point is the two vertical spring arms straight above the circlip on the image, i priyed these away with a flat screwdriver then removed.
not sure if that pic worked ars it was upside down,
the shaft is now free and you can put in the replacment.
i hope this helps and i am sorry if its made you more confused as wallybean mentioned they are different.
good luck and dont be afraid to ask questions.
LOL, I thought I was the only nut who works on his bike in the house on the persian rug!
454x
Husqvarna
Pro Class
He was making a joke but not at you. All is good.
Cosmokenney
Husqvarna
Pro Class
I don't have enough experience to help in this case. I just thought it was funny that he's got an open case on what appears to be an very nice rug. I assumed he's working inside the house, which is something I do -- especially now that I'm not married anymore, and it's 26 degrees at night in the garage. No harm intended.
, yeh its indoors i rebuilt my kmx in the front room too have pics somwhere, no problem with help i just hope it does give you a clue and not confuse more.As long as it's clear that the 360 is very different from the 125. The general idea is the same, but a lot is different. Even a 360 from a new 300, although they are very similar engines, there are a lot of differences in the shift mechanism. But the fact that on a 25/300/360 this can all be done from the left-hand side of the engine might be a bit confusing when translating it over to the more common right-side clutch with a left-side shifter.
I've not had a 125 apart before, but with it being a right-side clutch and a left-side shift, it might be worthwhile to look at the procedure for a Japanese 125 or a KTM 125/200. The KTMs tend to have very good documentation, where the Huskies do seem to lack. The Japanese bikes probably have the most video and documentation available.
My main pointers with any work are:
1. Do not force anything. If you're forcing something, you're doing it wrong.
2. Pay attention to what you're doing.
3. Do not get in a hurry.
4. Be organized. Put parts and bolts in plastic baggies to keep things from rolling off, and so you know where they need to go.
5. Try to do the job in one stretch without distractions. It will be fresh in your memory that way.
As you pull off the cover, you'll see the end of the shaft that turns the shift drum, and that the clutch will need to be removed to pull the shaft through. Once you get in there, you should see how everything goes together and understand it a bit better.
For this, as a first time job, be safe and give yourself a 2-3 hours. If you've never removed a clutch before, and do not have an impact wrench, then check out Rekluse's website. They have installation videos, the Core models include the removal of the stock clutch.
You'll likely need these tools:
8mm T-tool
27mm socket with impact wrench
snap ring pliers (may not need these on this model)
I've not had a 125 apart before, but with it being a right-side clutch and a left-side shift, it might be worthwhile to look at the procedure for a Japanese 125 or a KTM 125/200. The KTMs tend to have very good documentation, where the Huskies do seem to lack. The Japanese bikes probably have the most video and documentation available.
My main pointers with any work are:
1. Do not force anything. If you're forcing something, you're doing it wrong.
2. Pay attention to what you're doing.
3. Do not get in a hurry.
4. Be organized. Put parts and bolts in plastic baggies to keep things from rolling off, and so you know where they need to go.
5. Try to do the job in one stretch without distractions. It will be fresh in your memory that way.
As you pull off the cover, you'll see the end of the shaft that turns the shift drum, and that the clutch will need to be removed to pull the shaft through. Once you get in there, you should see how everything goes together and understand it a bit better.
For this, as a first time job, be safe and give yourself a 2-3 hours. If you've never removed a clutch before, and do not have an impact wrench, then check out Rekluse's website. They have installation videos, the Core models include the removal of the stock clutch.
You'll likely need these tools:
8mm T-tool
27mm socket with impact wrench
snap ring pliers (may not need these on this model)