Hydraulic Clutch Woes on 08 TE510

[Puckerbush]

My hydraulic clutch keeps bleeding out. I fill the reservoir, pump the handle and open the bleeder valve until air is purged, and eventually, the reservoir will empty and I have no clutch.
I've even tried forcing the fork oil up the line into the reservoir and no luck. Also, there is no evidence of any leakage at the reservoir or the bleeder valve. Any suggestions?

 

[AndrewS]

Possibly leaking at the slave cylinder?

 

[OlderHuskyRider]

My hydraulic clutch keeps bleeding out. I fill the reservoir, pump the handle and open the bleeder valve until air is purged, and eventually, the reservoir will empty and I have no clutch.
I've even tried forcing the fork oil up the line into the reservoir and no luck. Also, there is no evidence of any leakage at the reservoir or the bleeder valve. Any suggestions?

After you purge the air, how long does it take for the reservoir to empty?

 

[Puckerbush]

The reservoir empties in a couple of days depending on how much ridden. Is the slave cylinder supposed to be rebuilt and if so, where do I get a kit? Is that something a dealer stocks?

 

[OlderHuskyRider]

If your fluid is disappearing and there is no mess or puddle that you can see, the slave is probably leaking the fluid into your motor. Get one of these from 7602 Racing:

http://www.7602racing.com/husqvarna_te_tc_txc_sm_450_510.php

 

[268fords]

I haven't had to pull mine apart in a while, but now is the first time I have ever been able to get my bleed nipple to stop dribbling. I tried a second one and it never sealed. I was always afraid of tightening too much.

 

[Puckerbush]

I guess this unit fits into the housing where the clutch hose comes to the motor. Correct?

 

[OlderHuskyRider]

I guess this unit fits into the housing where the clutch hose comes to the motor. Correct?

Yes, into the slave cylinder housing bolted to the motor.

Always remember, don't pull the clutch lever while the slave is unbolted from the motor.

 

[HUSKYnXJnWI]

Inspect it then buy-

remove the half moon chain/case guard if you have one (2 bolts)
Disconnect the line from the Slave cylinder- save the 2 brass washers.
remove the 3 bolts on the slave.
remove the C-clip
the piston (pictured above) may come out at this time (spring loaded) or need to be pulled out.
Inspect the cylinder wall for damage/scrapes in coating
Inspect the Oring on the piston.
Replace worn items- reinstall in reverse
BACK BLEED

 

[HUSKYnXJnWI]

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/magura-clutch.33950/

 

[Puckerbush]

I ordered the new slave cylinder from 7602 Racing yesterday and took the housing off. Looks like you can get to the spring clip without taking the hose off, but I will wait until I get the part before taking out the old one. Malcolm Smith wanted $130 for the kit, and $90 to install. I'm going to try this change out first to see if it fixes the problem. I love my TE and what it has to offer, but my old bike seems so much easier to work on. When the cable broke, you get a new one. Now I have Teflon coated cylinders that scratch and will probably be carrying fork oil.

 

[OlderHuskyRider]

I ordered the new slave cylinder from 7602 Racing yesterday and took the housing off. Looks like you can get to the spring clip without taking the hose off, but I will wait until I get the part before taking out the old one.

You ordered the slave piston from 7602. Hopefully, your slave cylinder (the housing) is not grooved too badly and the new design X ring on the 7602 piston will cure your leak, it's the cheapest solution to try first.

You might have to get a slave cylinder from ZipTy, if your problem persists.

For fluid, I use baby oil (mineral oil). It's cheap, I can get it anywhere, and it's been working fine now for over 7000 miles.

 

[MorrisBetter]

I had the same problem. The anodizing on the inside of the slave housing was worn. The new piston was not the fix for the worn housing. New housing with the 7602 piston has worked flawlessly since. I did have to shorten the clutch actuator rod by .060' (that would be 1.5mm to those of you that speak metric). Used a file to shorten the rod.

 

[OlderHuskyRider]

I had the same problem. The anodizing on the inside of the slave housing was worn. The new piston was not the fix for the worn housing. New housing with the 7602 piston has worked flawlessly since. I did have to shorten the clutch actuator rod by .060' (that would be 1.5mm to those of you that speak metric). Used a file to shorten the rod.

7602 claims that their wider ring MAY be able to salvage a slightly worn cylinder since it sets up a new sealing area where nothing has rested before, I know mine was a pretty used cylinder by the time I got my 7602, so I would hope that the wider sealing ring solves Puck's problem.

 

[brandontx]

Uptite Husky has an ring seal designed to be better than the OEM one. It's $10. Cheaper than a piston or a new slave cylinder. Might be worth a shot. Mine is leaking and I have one of his new seals on the shelf. Plan on putting it on this evening. Will update tomorrow.

 

[Xcuvator]

I like fork oil for the clutch. Lots of good additives to make it slick and treat the rubber to stay buffed.. Smoother feel too.

 

[Puckerbush]

I installed the 7602 slave piston. So far so good. I used 5w fork oil and filled the system from the bottom up. I noticed while looking in the reservoir and pumping the clutch lever that small bubbles seem to appear from the bottom of the reservoir.
I had the bike on a floor jack so that it was level. The floor jack leaked down and the bike fell over. When I picked the bike up, I found a c-clip on the garage floor similar to the clip that holds the counter shaft sprocket on. I hate it when things like this happen because you begin to worry that either it was something that was dropped into the abyss of motorcycle crevasses or wherever it belongs will reveal itself soon.

 

[SilverBullet]

Uptite Husky has an ring seal designed to be better than the OEM one. It's $10. Cheaper than a piston or a new slave cylinder. Might be worth a shot. Mine is leaking and I have one of his new seals on the shelf. Plan on putting it on this evening. Will update tomorrow.

Did this work for you? My o-ring went out last year and I bought a cheap butyl rubber "close enough" o-ring at Fastenal because I was leaving for a trip and no time to order the correct part. It lasted only a couple months before leaking again. I replaced it with another of the same but need a permanent replacement so I'm not tinkering around with it so often. I'm thinking the butyl rubber is probably the problem and I need a Vitron o-ring but George at Uptite has good fixes so interested in this solution as well. Could you post a photo of it also?

_

 

[Ruffus]

If your slave housing is grooved, the a Ziptye unit would be a good replacement with a 7602 slave piston. Been problem free for quite a while now.
P.S. I always back bleed using an infants feeding syringe & a few inches of silicone hose, slip the hose over the bleeder nipple, open the nipple, squeeze the juice in, close nipple & repeat. Have a rag or good paper towel around the master to catch any excess. I use Mobil One synthetic ATF myself.