• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Husqvarna x-lite motor service intervals.

P

PatD193

Husqvarna
AA Class
Hey I'm new here, just bought a 2010 TE 250 and I have been trying to find some maintenance info.

Firstly I'm new to riding and with be just doing trails no racing for the moment.

What kind of intervals am I looking at for:

-oil changes
-oil filters
-valve checks
-engine re-builds

Cheers
Pat
 
Well there's what the manual says and what people do and everyone is different in their use/abuse and maintinence/ or lack of.
Personally based off how I ride a bike which is 95% offroad and would be concidered a clutch abuser and enjoy the higher end of the rpm spectrum....
-I change oil every 2-300 miles depending on my guilt from abuse... If I did a race or road it like it was a race it may be much sooner and only be 60-100 miles.
- I change/clean the airfilter when it no longer looks clean (every 2-3 rides?)
- I like to know what the valves are doing- so I'd check when new, then at least once a season or maybe twice a season depending on their stability.
- engine rebuilds- they have been stable but this really varies with use and abuse and the maintinence you asked about. I will probably rebuild when my valves start to become unstable (need adjustments quicker and quicker- leeding to the inevidable rebuild) mine have lossend only .001" in around 10,000 miles so Things are looking pretty darn good with 1 adjustment in 4 seasons!

but that's me... hope it gives you some insight:thumbsup:
 
Ditto, 200-300 miles or 2-4 rides, depending on distance; I trail-ride/dual-sport my TE, no racing.

The main way I track my maintenance is that I have a 3-pack of MSR "Filter Skins", which I generally change out after each ride, as the prefilter keeps the air filter more or less clean. After the 3rd skin is dirty, it's time for an oil change and full air filter service. This tends to be about 200-300 miles.

Valves - once a year or if I have the bike apart already for something else. I've only got about 3K on my XLite and the valves haven't moved at all yet.
 
Great thanks a lot guys. Much appreciated.

MontyCarlo: can you post the link to the pre filters you are using. Cheers
 
My 2010 TE250 has 1320 miles on the clock, all the miles are race miles. Oil is changed every 4 hours, oil filter every 2nd oil change. Air filter replaced with a clean one after every enduro. Valves checked once at the start of the year, all good. Touch wood the x-lite engine has been trouble free thus far although from previous experience with other 4 stroke race engines 1700 - 2000 miles is usually rebuild or blow up time!
 
What about the timing chain? Same as the Valves?

Is there any sign when riding the bike (without opening it up) to tell they may be wearing? Would the bike be mostly affected when starting or switching gears / riding? And does having a 50 rear sprocket as oppose to the 40 rear sprocket give more wear and tear on the Valves/Timing chain?
 
HUSKYnXJnWI said:
Well there's what the manual says and what people do and everyone is different in their use/abuse and maintinence/ or lack of.
Personally based off how I ride a bike which is 95% offroad and would be concidered a clutch abuser and enjoy the higher end of the rpm spectrum....
-I change oil every 2-300 miles depending on my guilt from abuse... If I did a race or road it like it was a race it may be much sooner and only be 60-100 miles.
- I change/clean the airfilter when it no longer looks clean (every 2-3 rides?)
- I like to know what the valves are doing- so I'd check when new, then at least once a season or maybe twice a season depending on their stability.
- engine rebuilds- they have been stable but this really varies with use and abuse and the maintinence you asked about. I will probably rebuild when my valves start to become unstable (need adjustments quicker and quicker- leeding to the inevidable rebuild) mine have lossend only .001" in around 10,000 miles so Things are looking pretty darn good with 1 adjustment in 4 seasons!

but that's me... hope it gives you some insight:thumbsup:
Click to expand...

are you talking 450 or extralite?
should they be treated differantly?
 
MontyCarlo said:
Ditto, 200-300 miles or 2-4 rides, depending on distance; I trail-ride/dual-sport my TE, no racing.

The main way I track my maintenance is that I have a 3-pack of MSR "Filter Skins", which I generally change out after each ride, as the prefilter keeps the air filter more or less clean. After the 3rd skin is dirty, it's time for an oil change and full air filter service. This tends to be about 200-300 miles.

Valves - once a year or if I have the bike apart already for something else. I've only got about 3K on my XLite and the valves haven't moved at all yet.
Click to expand...

thats use full never heard of filter skins! will be getting some
 
henson802 said:
What about the timing chain? Same as the Valves?

Is there any sign when riding the bike (without opening it up) to tell they may be wearing? Would the bike be mostly affected when starting or switching gears / riding? And does having a 50 rear sprocket as oppose to the 40 rear sprocket give more wear and tear on the Valves/Timing chain?
Click to expand...

Timing chain should be fine for a LONG long time- you should not notice while riding- if you do its already a problem.
you can check the clicks remaining on the Auto Camchain Tensioner- some will say that is not an accurate way to go and say you have to measure pin to pin length per manual instructions, some with then say if you go that far, you might as well replace it. I say if you are ever in your motor where you have to remove the cam chain- replace it. If you are lucky and never have to for a really really long time- count the clicks of the ACT (you don't want to run out of clicks). Its a very generalized method but it works usually and "good enough for most".

Timing chain is unrelated to the tranny and final gearing. High Rpms would effect added wear- but final gearing doesn't necessarily mean higher revs- its all throttle and your personall revliminter in you mind that will be cause to RPMs- I control the bike not the bike controling me :thumbsup:
 
bhima said:
are you talking 450 or extralite?
should they be treated differantly?
Click to expand...
I was talking about me- with my bike- but this is really general stuff here- I personaly wouldn't treat a Xlite different than my bike (air, oil, valve checks, expectations of reliability).
Though my Reliability may be slightly better than an xlite (assumption) and so far, xlites are showing great/simular reliability (valves/piston/bottom end/ tranny). ACCEPT for possibly the starter/flywheel dillema.
 
Yeah, it's tough to gauge high rpms. I know this bike can rip up to 11000 or so but I always try to keep it in the 5000-6500 rpm and occasional ripping up the rpm chart. Would you say 6500 rpms is alot of wear?? Sometimes I ride on 10-15 minutes of 50 mph roads from trail to trail and I have to keep the rpms around 6000-6500 to maintain speed. Guess I'll have rip er open soon and check myself.
 
here in the uk we get a 2 year warranty and need to follow the complete service chart. that means changing pistons when theres no need to!
 
The physics stuff (that I barely remember 'cos I went to college when most of it hadn't been invented) would suggest that wearing stuff out would be related to not just naked RPM, but to how much of the potential power that you were using. It would be very complicated analysis and would depend on how well the motor was engineered in the first place, what the quality control between units was like, control of fuelling / cooling and other whatnot. In the end it might average out to something like like "rag it twice as hard and it will last one quarter / one eighth of the time, depending...", but there are too too many variables in manufacture to guess it, especially as anything competition derived is already pushing the envelope.

There is also a school of thought that suggests that you don't actually need to make competition bikes durable - as long as you can make them reliable for a season.
 
henson802 said:
Yeah, it's tough to gauge high rpms. I know this bike can rip up to 11000 or so but I always try to keep it in the 5000-6500 rpm and occasional ripping up the rpm chart. Would you say 6500 rpms is alot of wear?? Sometimes I ride on 10-15 minutes of 50 mph roads from trail to trail and I have to keep the rpms around 6000-6500 to maintain speed. Guess I'll have rip er open soon and check myself.
Click to expand...
I have a few fairly long stretches of two lane to get to some of the trail heads I go to; and I find that if I vary the RPM on the pavement it doesn't seem to hurt the bikes. I have had a KTM 300 2-stroke, KTM 450, and now a new 310, and I have ridden all these bikes to the same trails with off road gearing almost 40mi. at some higher RPMs with no adverse effects. But I do vary the RPM, and will stop occasionally and let the bike sit for a while, and pull the clutch in and bip the throttle from time to time. In my mind it is kind of like the break-in process the main thing is to not just pin it an leave it wide open for long stretches of road. I am not sure if it is right, but it seems to work for me.
 
What type of oil would you use with the x-lite motors (250 / 310)...

What is the difference between 10w40 and 10w50??
 
henson802 said:
What type of oil would you use with the x-lite motors (250 / 310)...

What is the difference between 10w40 and 10w50??
Click to expand...
Oh no, now you've opened up a can of worms. There's a whole discussion on oil somewhere on the site. Good luck making up your mind on that one. I use what the manual says to use. I think you really can't go wrong there.
 
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